ABS and Brake Light on.

[greg1459]

I have a 95 Ranger 4X4 and both the ABS and Brake Lights are on. My problem started when I changed the bearings and rotors out. It started out only as a slight shaking in the front end when I applied the brakes. After a while the vibration became worse and the brake light came on. The next day the abs light came on and now the pedal is really soft. The brakes occasionally lock up.

I went in and checked the front ABS sensors and found the one on the drivers side torn up. It looked like it had been in contact with the ring on the back of the rotor.

I know I need to replace the sensor, but I have a few questions first. I suspect that I may have overtightened the Hub nuts. My first time removing them and I know I did not use a torque wrench. What do you think? Could over tightening the hub nuts push the rotor back far enough to contact the speed sensor? If so, how can I prevent this?

Also what type of bolt is it that holds the speed sensor in? It looks a bit like a torx but with more ridges. I can't seem to find anything to fit it.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Sounds like either your spindle nuts backed off or were too tight causing the bearings to crush, for a lack of better words, and are toast. That allowed enough play for the rotor to come in contact with the speed sensor. Better pray that the bearing didnt seize itself to the spindle. I also hope your not still driving it....

First off, go get a torque wrench capable of atleast 35-150+ ft/lbs. If you can find one that goes up to 200+ ft/lbs while still allowing 35 ft/lbs, get it. An inch/lbs torque wrench is great to have too, but isnt necessary.

Second, you need new bearings with races, a speed sensor, and possibly a new rotor cause if the rotor itself wasnt scored any, the speed ring probably was. Inspect and use good judgement. If using original rotors, and they werent destroyed in the mishap, make sure you atleast get new races pressed in.

Third, depends on if you have automatic locking hubs or manual. If you do have auto, I suggest upgrading now as the autos suck...Im sure everyone here will tell you the same.

Now for the install instructions for Warn Hubs Spindle Nut Kit directly off the install sheet (with a few tips added)...

1. Install the inner bearing nut and torque the nut to 35 ft/lbs while rotating the front disc hub back and forth to seat the bearing. Note: The inner nut has a pin or post protruding on one side. The pin is to index into the lockwasher.
(And of course should be facing outward)
2. Back the inner bearing nut off 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
(Torque down to 16 Inch/lbs to ensure its not backed off too far)
3. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front spindle. Tighten the inner bearing nut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. Note: The lockwasher hole pattern is offset with the keyway to provide half-position setting by flipping the washer over to obtain closest hole.
4. Install the outer bearing nut and tighten to 85 to 135 ft/lbs using the spanner locknut wrench/socket.
(The outer nut tends to back off, soo do like everyone says and torque it down to 200-250 ft/lbs. Also, make sure not to turn the inner nut as you torque down the outer nut. Its good to have a second hand to position a screw driver in one of the splines of the inner nut as to hold it from turning.)

Timkins and National bearings are good, but stay away from the cheap ones. Be sure also that you are replacing the races too with the bearings or your wasting your time as they will end up failing too. Ohh, and did I mention to use some good grease? Valvoline synthetic grease seems to work well for me.

As far as the speed sensor goes, it looks to be an inversed torx/star socket. I took a ~6mm or soo socket and pounded it on and made my socket fit it. While this is not the "preferred" thing to do, it worked for me. Good Luck...

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

There needs to be a big flashy link right on the home page that warns/teaches people about these wheel bearings/ spindle nuts and abs systems.

Anyways, Fix your wheel bearings the right way(as Yellowsplash said to)
Don't drive it till it's fixed the right way, unless you've got too much money and AAA
Oh and don't drive it with bad bearings, my wheel damn near fell off after 8mi
of first hearing the bad bearing.

 

[greg1459]

Doh!

you were right. I got in there tonight and found that the spindle nuts were loose. Looks like the little nipple on the inner nut was broken off. Both of the bearings were shot, but I was able to get them off. I checked the ABS Ring and found it to be in decent shape. The Rotor did not score, but the pads were wearing in an odd pattern.

I started to put it together, and I think the parts store gave me the wrong size bearings. I can't get the dang things on the spindle. I will start back in on it tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help and advice. This will teach me to play Shadetree mechanic.

 

[KELLY88]

True. I found out real fast that dealing with bearings is something precise and detail oriented. Everything has to go on perfectly and be torqued down exactly. I agree with the above, don't drive til you get this fixed. Just be thankful it didn't get worse.

 

[Yellowsplash]

National Bearing - Inner & Outer; 4WD, Part # A37
National Oil Seal - Inner; 4WD, # 4250