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A4LD to M5OD R1 Swap


Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
My son has a '89 Ranger, 2.9L, w/ A4LD. The A4LD has just died- Non-drivably Slips in any gear above 1st, and will hardly move in 1st. My son thinks that the best solution is to put a 5-spd manual in it. From reading other forum threads it appears to me that the M5OD R1 is the preferred choice of the available manuals. Several Questions-

1. Am I better off to rebuild the A4LD? Is it an exceptionally temperamental rebuild?
2. What all engines and years was the M5OD used in? Does it matter which engine it came from to match the 2.9L?
3. Do I need a different differential to match? What about speedometer readings?
4. Do I need a different computer? Wiring harness? etc.?

Thanks
 
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its not hard just plug and play. the computer is good but you dont have to it just to shut off the mil
You will need
a flywheel
clutch
slave and master
clutch line
clutch bolts
bell housing bolt the different lengths
pedals the bracts the same
have fun
 
bell housing bolt the different lengths
Bell housing bolts for an A4LD will work on a M50D.


I would do the swap if you have the tools and place to do the work at. I have done 3 auto to manual swaps on RBV's. The cheapest was less than $500 and the most expensive was around $800.

The M50D will be found in '90 Bronco II's, '90 + Rangers, and '91+ Explorers.
 
Bell housing bolts for an A4LD will work on a M50D.

You may be right but on my 94 the top 2 and the 2 on the side were to short and i had to make two trips to the store to get them i should have checked them all
 
You're going to want to look for an M5OD-R1 from a 2.9L if you want a wider ratio 5 speed. An M5OD-R1 from a 4.0L V6 will bolt to the 2.9L also. Keep in mind though, the 4.0L transmissions had a closer ratio transmission where the first three gears were a little steeper than the 2.9L.
 
Bell housing bolts for an A4LD will work on a M50D.


I would do the swap if you have the tools and place to do the work at. I have done 3 auto to manual swaps on RBV's. The cheapest was less than $500 and the most expensive was around $800.

The M50D will be found in '90 Bronco II's, '90 + Rangers, and '91+ Explorers.

The bell housing bolts between an a4ld and m5od are not the same at all.....

Especially the top bolts. On an a4ld they are shorter, and also have a "collar" built in to them (between the head and threads) that wiil not fit through the top holes of the m5od.
 
Especially the top bolts. On an a4ld they are shorter, and also have a "collar" built in to them (between the head and threads) that wiil not fit through the top holes of the m5od.
Don't tell me they wont fit, because I have used the A4LD and 5R55E bolts on all 3 swaps I have done.
 
Don't tell me they wont fit, because I have used the A4LD and 5R55E bolts on all 3 swaps I have done.

They won't fit. I did the swap on the same truck, an 89 4X4 2.9L Ranger from A4LD to M5OD-R1 and the bolts are different as 2ranger87 points out. You will also need a pilot bearing which with a sleeve will fit in the center of the flywheel, not into the crank flange bore. (Yes, I know there is a hole in the flange which the pilot bearing will press fit into, but if you measure you will see that the input shaft is too short to reach it.).

Make sure you get a 6 bolt flywheel because after 97 the number of holes increased. I would recommend upgrading to the 4.0L flywheel/clutch/starter since you will have to purchase these parts in their 2.9L version anyways.

To answer your questions: 1) The A4LD is trash as you have discovered. They should weigh all A4LD's down with pre 90 style 2.9L heads and toss them into the ocean. 2) The 2.9L and 4.0L M5OD-R1's have the same bolt pattern, and you will need the 4X4 version. Personally, I like the slightly different ratio in the 4.0L version. 3) My swap did not require any changes here. You may need to swap the plastic gear at the trans depending on the gears you have. 4) I did not change the computer or harness on mine. I simply cut the 5 pin connector at the trans and connected the proper 2 wires to the back up lights, 2 to the neutral safety switch, and ignored the pink converter lock up wire. If you want the clutch interlock to work, you will have to run these 2 wires through it. :icon_thumby:
 
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Well that is funny as I have used the auto transmission bolts on all 3 auto to manual swaps I have done.
 
...so he might be in danger of spending $10 on new hardware. Its not a big deal.
 
Well that is funny as I have used the auto transmission bolts on all 3 auto to manual swaps I have done.

Let me rephrase that. When I did my swap the auto trans bolts were too short and the top two had shoulders and smaller diameter threads. I was installing a 4.0L trans rather than one from a 2.9L, maybe that was the difference.

I don't doubt they worked for you; just saying it's something to watch out for on the exact swap he asked about which is all I'm familiar with.:icon_cheers:
 
Thanks for all the responses above! Can anyone tell me if the rear end ratios are the same between the automatic and the manual and if not what the ratios are?

Thanks
 
the rearends are the same no need to change
Actually with the 2.9, the automatics had a lower gear ratio than the manuals did. I wouldn't change it out though.
 
don't try and confuse him.

original poster- is your truck 4x4 or 2wd? if 4x4 then you don't need to change anything, if 2wd you need to swap a speedo gear if your donor truck is geared different(ex. 3.55 and 3.73)
 

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