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a few 8.8 q's


crawlin91

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Oct 31, 2007
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Crawlorado
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I will be running fr34 skyjacker leafsprings with stock block on a 8.8
Would 6 degrees work for pinion angle?
How important is it to have the tubes welded to the diff?
How about shock mounts? Ideas? Specs? Pics?
I just dont want them to ride real low like on the stock 7.5
:icon_hornsup:Once I decide on a locker its off to the shop with the 8.8:yahoo:
 
I will be running fr34 skyjacker leafsprings with stock block on a 8.8
Would 6 degrees work for pinion angle?
How important is it to have the tubes welded to the diff?
How about shock mounts? Ideas? Specs? Pics?
I just dont want them to ride real low like on the stock 7.5
:icon_hornsup:Once I decide on a locker its off to the shop with the 8.8:yahoo:


If you're running a single cardian shaft, you want the pinion angle to match the t-case output angle. So if your t-case is angled down at 4*, you want the pinion pointed up 4*. So 6* will work, if your t-case is also 6*.

If you're running a double cardian rear shaft, you want the pinion angle to be 0* as it relates to the driveshaft.

Shock mounts are simple. Weld 2 1/4" tabs to the top of the axle with holes drilled in them and you have a good mount.

You do not need to worry about welding the axle tubes to the housing.
 
If you're running a single cardian shaft, you want the pinion angle to match the t-case output angle. So if your t-case is angled down at 4*, you want the pinion pointed up 4*. So 6* will work, if your t-case is also 6*.

If you're running a double cardian rear shaft, you want the pinion angle to be 0* as it relates to the driveshaft.

Single cardian = 1 u-joint correct? (at each end of the shaft, = 2 total)
Why would you want to set it so there is a difference at the pinion? What is wrong with having the pinion the same angle as the driveshaft? I have seen this done on mobile equipment before, seems like the logical thing to me, to ask less of the u-joint.... What am I missing?
 
If you're running a single cardian shaft, you want the pinion angle to match the t-case output angle. So if your t-case is angled down at 4*, you want the pinion pointed up 4*. So 6* will work, if your t-case is also 6*.

If you're running a double cardian rear shaft, you want the pinion angle to be 0* as it relates to the driveshaft.

Shock mounts are simple. Weld 2 1/4" tabs to the top of the axle with holes drilled in them and you have a good mount.

You do not need to worry about welding the axle tubes to the housing.

Its a 1piece shaft(is that what you mean by single cardian?). I will be taking out the 2piece carrier bearing crap, and probably just notch the bracket so it wont rub.
 
Single cardian = 1 u-joint correct? (at each end of the shaft, = 2 total)
Why would you want to set it so there is a difference at the pinion? What is wrong with having the pinion the same angle as the driveshaft? I have seen this done on mobile equipment before, seems like the logical thing to me, to ask less of the u-joint.... What am I missing?

If there's only two u-joints on the shaft, they both need to be at the same angle to cancel out the elliptic vibration of the other.

If you have a double-cardan shaft (two joint cluster at the t-case), then the axle u-joint should be inline (no angle, nothing to cancel out, the double-cardan joint already does that on it's own).

pinionangle.jpg
 
Thanks for that picture Junkie, the picture makes it look like that is the right thing to do for sure. Can you tell me anything more about this "elliptic vibration", I still kinda want to tip my pinion up some, say 2*. Is this just fool-hardy or will it show up as a problem?
 
Yes, it will show up as a problem. Your driveline will vibrate.

You also want to measure driveline angles with the vehicle normally loaded. I.e., weights in whatever seats are normally occupied, and whatever crap you generally carry in the rear. It can matter if the leaf springs are a bit on the soft side.
 
I was just going to pull the stock axle, set the differential level, measure the angle of the pads and do the same on my 8.8. Right now I have absolutly no vibration issues so I figure I can't improve apoun that, and that is even with saggy springs too.

No need to reinvent the wheel if you don't have to.
 

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