A/C Clutch or Compressor

[jasongind]

about a month ago my a/c clutch started screaming. It did it the whole time the engine was running then stopped after two days. Now my a/c doesn't blow cold. Is the compressor its self bad or just the clutch? If its just the clutch can I do at home without having to evacuate the syatem?

 

[Earl43P]

Yes, it's replaceable seperately.
Remove one bolt in the center, tap, it's off.

You will not have to evacuate or service to do the clutch.
Good luck finding one at a decent price. I'd get a couple from the junkyard.

The scary part of this scenario is the "screaming" for a couple days. That COULD have been the compressor failing and now the clutch simply doesn't engage anymore due to its plates being completely worn down. Observe it while at idle in Defrost. If it's getting power, sometimes a lit tap on the clutch will get it to engage (when the air gap is too great). Look at how the clutch mates before you start it, so you know where to give it a tap while it's spinning. Or remove its connector and check for power.

So it's a crap shoot whether a bad compressor burnt out the clutch, or is it simply a bad clutch.

 

[jasongind]

thanks for the info. A clutch it $83 at Schucks so not to bad. I'll observe & tap like you said. If it doesn't engage when tapped is the whole thing done for?

 

[Earl43P]

Not necessarily. It could have burnt out the clutch coil.

Check for power at the compressor connector, using the other socket as ground (it's a two wire connector). If you have power and ground, a new clutch may fix it.

 

[jasongind]

Not necessarily. It could have burnt out the clutch coil.

Check for power at the compressor connector, using the other socket as ground (it's a two wire connector). If you have power and ground, a new clutch may fix it.

OK so I disconnected the a/c connector and checked the compressor side for continuety, it had it, then checked the plug for power with the vehicle running, it has it, then i plugged it back in (vehilce running, and the clutch locked in and spun a few times then stopped. It kicks in, spins a few times and stops, but doesnt stay on when in Max A/C setting and doesnt blow cold air just cool.

 

[Earl43P]

Low on refrigerant.

You can jumper the low pressure switch to prove that out.

It's the only electrical thing near/on the receiver/dryer or its line (aluminum cannister-looking dealio near the heater box).

Remove the plug, jumper those two pins, see if it stays engaged longer. If so, it needs serviced. The Haynes manual has an excellent method, using a thermometer in the outlet duct. That is the ONLY thing I've ever recommended the Haynes manual for. Don't run it very long like that unless you are adding refrigerant (that method sucks it in faster).

 

[jasongind]

Low on refrigerant.

You can jumper the low pressure switch to prove that out.

It's the only electrical thing near/on the receiver/dryer or its line (aluminum cannister-looking dealio near the heater box).

Remove the plug, jumper those two pins, see if it stays engaged longer. If so, it needs serviced. The Haynes manual has an excellent method, using a thermometer in the outlet duct. That is the ONLY thing I've ever recommended the Haynes manual for. Don't run it very long like that unless you are adding refrigerant (that method sucks it in faster).

Well I just went out there to go test this and when I found the Low Pressure switch I just happened to open the cap for the fill port. When I opened it there was some pressure that made the "woosh" sound, got it all the way off and the valve was leaking. I took a #1 flat tip and worked the valve around and got it to stop leaking. Now I need to have it refilled. Would sprying a little WD40 in the housing prevent it from doing that again, or is it something that needs to be replaced?