99 ranger 4x4 lift options?

[cp2295]

So got a 99 4x4 and I'm trying to clear 33x12.5r15. I was thinking a 3" lift would be good on front and back.. Right now I have 31x10.5 and I bought it with a 1.5" lift.. I'm pretty positive they did a t bar crank and a shackle or something in the back. I'm just curious how much I can crank the t bars safely or would it be worth while to get t bar keys? In the back I'll just do blocks.. What is your opinion about t bar keys? What issues will I run into with a body lift?

Also just a side note, how does a suspension lift work on a t bar setup? Can I just put like a spacer or something between the t bar and mount? I'm confused about how that works.. And will I need a shift extension since I got a 5 Speed?

 

[Wyant]

Hello! Looks like i am just up the creek from you in Toutle Wa. I used to have an 02 Ranger which I installed a 3" body lift on, so i can at least speak to that:

The 3" kit and a simple torsion bar crank allowed me to run Cooper STT 33 x 12.50's! (a fantaaastic tire btw, especially when compared to toyo mt's). A body lift is not too difficult to install, but maybe harder, or more annoying than you'd think (that is if you are planning on installing it). Mostly typical tools: sockets, wrenches, screwdriver, cheater bar..you will need torx sockets for removing the bed and the seatbelts/jumpseats. You will also need a Jack or two tall enough to reach the bottom of the body to lift it up and put the new blocks in. I think i used a floor jack with some 2x4's, which isn't recommended but you can decide what to do to get the job done. Overall, an average mechanical aptitude, and a good amount of ambition.

*You will need to extend the shifter since it is a manual, no way around this. I believe the steering linkage also needed to be extended. These parts were apart of my performance accessories kit so no worries.

Issues with the body lift: No major functional issues, no dynamic mechanical pieces are being changed except the steering linkage and shift extension, so its sort of a benign lift method. However make sure to have the truck aligned immediately after. I burned through a brand new set of BF goodies for this reason. Make sure to get the distance between the cab and bed right when tightening your blocks..i didn't and hated staring at that. Also, the bumper brackets are of low quality. Be careful not to over torque on the studs or they will break.

Overall a body lift is considerable cheaper! Its a great way to clear 33's, at least for me it was. No adverse qualities, as long as it is aligned. If your front end sits level now, then you won't need to even touch your torsion bars. If not level, be careful in cranking that you get the same amount on each side and that you don't over crank! There is such a thing as tooo much torsion. In general, newer rangers wheel wells accommodate for a large tire size.

While happy with a body lift, I always did regret not just saving up for a 4" suspension lift. I for one consider body lifts an eyesore, and there is no improvement other than tire size.

 

[Wyant]

So be honest in what you really want. You can get a super lift 4" kit for 1400 i think. However, be prepared to spend much more. Its one of those things that needs to be done right. You will need a new front driveline, i think super lift offers one, if you expect it to last. It includes heightened differential mounting brackets, and enlarged knuckles i believe as the primary lifting operators. I could be wrong on that though, I've only installed a suspension lift on my Gen 1 Ranger which is TTB. Plenty of good information on this site, although it seems more info on TTB.

 

[cp2295]

No adverse qualities, as long as it is aligned. If your front end sits level now, then you won't need to even touch your torsion bars. If not level, be careful in cranking that you get the same amount on each side and that you don't over crank! There is such a thing as tooo much torsion. In general, newer rangers wheel wells accommodate for a large tire size.

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Yeah I noticed my passenger side was a 1/4" shorter than the drivers so. I figured id go and tighten the passenger side to bring it up to the drivers side. At first the drivers was at 34.5" from ground to top of the wheel well. The pass was 34.25". I had to crank the pass 2.5 turns to make the two sides match and it ended up they both got upto 35". I noticed the drivers side torsion bolt was wayyyyyyy tighter than the passengers.. (Bought the truck with a 1.5" lift). Do you think they lifted the truck with just that side? Should I back the drivers side off and make sure the thread count is the same for the pass and driver or just leave it?

Also just curious why tightening the pass side lifted the drivers side as well? And another thing the drivers back is 35.25" to the top of the wheel well, and the pass back is 34.75".. Any way to fix that ?

 

[cp2295]

And that's weird! I'm actually in Washougal, wa not portland... I would hate to live there haha

 

[adsm08]

T-bar keys are someone's increadibly smart way to part incredibly stupid people from their money. What the keys do is move the bar just like cranking on them will, it just leaves the bolt in the same spot, instead of being in the hole farther.

A true suspension lift on the IFS Rangers will include T-bar drop brackets and or drop knuckles, that retain much of the ball joint and control arm geometery but put the wheel lower to the ground. It's kinda wierd the way they work.

You shouldn't need any extenders or anything with a suspension lift, because it doesn't change the relationship of the body to the frame, engine, or trans, which is what all those extenders in body lifts are meant to correct for.

 

[cp2295]

T-bar keys are someone's increadibly smart way to part incredibly stupid people from their money. What the keys do is move the bar just like cranking on them will, it just leaves the bolt in the same spot, instead of being in the hole farther.

A true suspension lift on the IFS Rangers will include T-bar drop brackets and or drop knuckles, that retain much of the ball joint and control arm geometery but put the wheel lower to the ground. It's kinda wierd the way they work.

You shouldn't need any extenders or anything with a suspension lift, because it doesn't change the relationship of the body to the frame, engine, or trans, which is what all those extenders in body lifts are meant to correct for.

Yeah okay I figured torsion keys were worthless but wanted to make sure, is there any suspension lift kits at a reasonable price? Also I know ball joint spacers are bad but do they make those for these rangers? Or a bigger knuckle? I read you can swap a dana 44 knuckle in, would that lift my truck in any way?

 

[Wyant]

In regards to your concerns with ride height differing from side to side:

I am not that familiar with t-bars but i think what i would do is run both adjusting bolts all the way down, and then tighten them each exactly the same. I dont think measuring the thread distance would be a bad idea. Also, i cant remember if you should have the truck blocked up in the front so your suspension is fully extended or not. I'm sure it would at least make the adjusting bolts easier to turn. Probably good information on that in the tech section. Get the t-bars even and level where you want it, then take alook at the back-end ride height.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Its not uncommon to have the driver side torqued down farther than the passenger side, the driver side is heavier than the passenger (aka, ranger lean).

You should already have a factory lift block in the rear.

 

[cp2295]

Its not uncommon to have the driver side torqued down farther than the passenger side, the driver side is heavier than the passenger (aka, ranger lean).

You should already have a factory lift block in the rear.

Yeah but it's way more cranked on the drivers side. The bolt is way in the hole on the drivers and on the passengers it's sticking out of the hole at least a quarter of an inch. I'd say the difference in amount of threads has to be a good 1/2" maybe more..

 

[triumphrider-1]

The spring might be getting weak then.

 

[cp2295]

The spring might be getting weak then.

The drivers or passengers?