98 Ranger Leaf Spring U-Bolts

[Chris_North]

Hi, I'm new here and I'm sure this has been brought up before but I've been searching google and a few Ranger-specific sites for over an hour as well as calling a few local auto parts stores with no luck. I have a 98 Ranger with the 7.5 rear that recently started making a grinding noise. Long story short, I plan on replacing it with a salvage one. Currently I'm in the process of gathering all the other fluids and parts needed, but I'm not having any luck finding the U-bolts for the suspension. I'm getting really frustrated, because over the past few days I had also had similar difficulty finding a the right rear for something less than an obscene price. From what I have found online as well as my own measurements, I should need 1/2in thread, 2 3/4in wide, 10 in long bolts. These seem to be like finding the end of a rainbow. Is my info wrong? If not, does anyone know where I can get these? I know typically the old bolts are a PITA to separate from the old axle (and looking at my truck, it seems unlikely they'll come off in one piece) and even if I were to get them off it is highly inadvisable to reuse them.

I would greatly appreciate any help. The past week trying to find parts and hoping my truck doesn't die has been really miserable. Of course my girlfriend's car's alternator had to die the day after I have my problem as well, and I seem to have one of about ten rangers with a 4.10 ratio.

 

[killj0y]

Any set long enough from an auto parts store will do. They usually come with matching nuts....

 

[Surrey]

Some auto parts stores dont even sell 'em - Thats what Napa told me.

Another option is going straight to Ford, or going to any shop that specializes in 4x4s, or suspension, and they should be able to make or find you some.

 

[brinker88]

I can bend you up any size u-bolt you need. PM me and I'll get you a price shipped.

 

[Chris_North]

Some auto parts stores dont even sell 'em - Thats what Napa told me.

Another option is going straight to Ford, or going to any shop that specializes in 4x4s, or suspension, and they should be able to make or find you some.

Yeah, I called a few more places. I guess ranger U-bolts are more like finding a leprechaun riding a diamond-defecating unicorn at the end of a double-rainbow. Most shops haven't even heard of such a size. It is 1/2, not 9/16, right?

I can bend you up any size u-bolt you need. PM me and I'll get you a price shipped.

PM'd.

 

[509lifted]

you can go to the big bolt company like fastnll or whatever and they can make them or get slightly bigger and drill out the holes on the plate and badabing you got stronger u bolts

 

[Surrey]

you can go to the big bolt company like fastnll or whatever and they can make them or get slightly bigger and drill out the holes on the plate and badabing you got stronger u bolts

Yeah. Dont worry about the wrong sized bolts, as long as you have something thinker and not thinner, just drill your plates a bit bigger to get them to fit through.

 

[chrwilkins30]

If you have a ruralking or tractor supply they'll have them in stock.

 

[cvar]

I phoned ATSsprings.com and they made me a set of 10" long U-bolts for $30 shipped. Mine were 2.5" inside (ie, 3" center-to-center), and 0.5" thick.

http://i.imgur.com/pnaLQOy.jpg
http://imgur.com/a/WpQR8

 

[Andy D]

never dealt with Ford rear leafs. I broke several on the Waggy front. The guys on the IFSJA said not to re-use the the U-bolts, I wire brushed them, cleaned up the threads and tightened them with a 3' cheater. I never had a bit of trouble. Was I just lucky? Five times?

 

[modelageek]

Hi, I'm new here and I'm sure this has been brought up before but I've been searching google and a few Ranger-specific sites for over an hour as well as calling a few local auto parts stores with no luck. I have a 98 Ranger with the 7.5 rear that recently started making a grinding noise. Long story short, I plan on replacing it with a salvage one. Currently I'm in the process of gathering all the other fluids and parts needed, but I'm not having any luck finding the U-bolts for the suspension. I'm getting really frustrated, because over the past few days I had also had similar difficulty finding a the right rear for something less than an obscene price. From what I have found online as well as my own measurements, I should need 1/2in thread, 2 3/4in wide, 10 in long bolts. These seem to be like finding the end of a rainbow. Is my info wrong? If not, does anyone know where I can get these? I know typically the old bolts are a PITA to separate from the old axle (and looking at my truck, it seems unlikely they'll come off in one piece) and even if I were to get them off it is highly inadvisable to reuse them.

I would greatly appreciate any help. The past week trying to find parts and hoping my truck doesn't die has been really miserable. Of course my girlfriend's car's alternator had to die the day after I have my problem as well, and I seem to have one of about ten rangers with a 4.10 ratio.

Logan, why not use the U bolts you have? Start hitting them with 50/50 acetone and atf! After a few days of that throw a 6 point socket with a breaker bar abd see what happens! Have you checked your hangers and shackles? Ujoints?

LMC HAS A LOT OF STUFF

 

[modelageek]

Logan, I live in the rust belt. I just looked at my bolts and I could definitely use mine again!

I looked at rockauto and they have the U bolts. I guess you have 4wd? They are $5.5 or $8 each. They are listed under suspension-> leafspringbolt.

 

[modelageek]

Logan, you might consider removing the bed if you are working off the ground. I also would buy 2 new ebrake cables, shoes and wheel cylinders.

You do not have a location so we don't know if you are dealing with rust!

 

[Chris_North]

never dealt with Ford rear leafs. I broke several on the Waggy front. The guys on the IFSJA said not to re-use the the U-bolts, I wire brushed them, cleaned up the threads and tightened them with a 3' cheater. I never had a bit of trouble. Was I just lucky? Five times?

Logan, why not use the U bolts you have? Start hitting them with 50/50 acetone and atf! After a few days of that throw a 6 point socket with a breaker bar abd see what happens! Have you checked your hangers and shackles? Ujoints?

LMC HAS A LOT OF STUFF

I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do. Upon closer inspection of the old bolts, they really look pretty good. The threads look almost untouched, and there is a bit of rust/dirt/grease that I painted over on the bottom of the loops, but nothing concerning. Most sources online say not to reuse them (I think one had mentioned something about the steel stretching or distorting?) but an auto mechanic I know told me that as long as they're not visibly damaged and if I can get them off it should be fine using the old bolts. My truck also has a bad exhaust valve so its days may be limited, I don't want to go nuts spending money on parts if it turns out I don't want to replace the engine. OTOH, new bolts is still considered the "right" thing to do.

I will check tractor supply since I will be needing to make a trip up there anyway. I also completely forgot about rock auto. It's funny because I saw their commercial yesterday and thought about checking there.

Why do you keep calling me Logan? Haha.

I live in the poconos, so normally I would have a rust box with wheels at this point but from what I understand this truck first decade was spent in Washington (which I wouldn't think would be any better than here but I was told otherwise) and was also undercoated. Since in my possession I've kept up the paint and only have some minor surface rusting in some areas. Shackles, U-joint, etc. are looking okay, and I think the brake cables are actually new. Shocks could be replaced but as above don't want to spend on anything I don't have to. That's an interesting I idea about pulling the bed off, does it make the diff swap that much easier to be worth the extra effort?

 

[modelageek]

I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do. Upon closer inspection of the old bolts, they really look pretty good. The threads look almost untouched, and there is a bit of rust/dirt/grease that I painted over on the bottom of the loops, but nothing concerning. Most sources online say not to reuse them (I think one had mentioned something about the steel stretching or distorting?) but an auto mechanic I know told me that as long as they're not visibly damaged and if I can get them off it should be fine using the old bolts. My truck also has a bad exhaust valve so its days may be limited, I don't want to go nuts spending money on parts if it turns out I don't want to replace the engine. OTOH, new bolts is still considered the "right" thing to do.

I will check tractor supply since I will be needing to make a trip up there anyway. I also completely forgot about rock auto. It's funny because I saw their commercial yesterday and thought about checking there.

Why do you keep calling me Logan? Haha.

I live in the poconos, so normally I would have a rust box with wheels at this point but from what I understand this truck first decade was spent in Washington (which I wouldn't think would be any better than here but I was told otherwise) and was also undercoated. Since in my possession I've kept up the paint and only have some minor surface rusting in some areas. Shackles, U-joint, etc. are looking okay, and I think the brake cables are actually new. Shocks could be replaced but as above don't want to spend on anything I don't have to. That's an interesting I idea about pulling the bed off, does it make the diff swap that much easier to be worth the extra effort?

I agree, as I was removing the bolts if they did not come off reasonably easy I would not use them again. I have replaced a few leaf-springs and used the bolts again no problem........as I said start putting rust perpetrator on them now......throw some grease on the threads before you go to remove the bolts......

I have some thoughts on diagnosing the issue......are you sure where the grinding is coming from?.....could it be the ujoint? could it be the wheel bearings?.........have you lifted the rear of the truck and disconnected the driveshaft and spun the tires?..........is there gear oil in the diff? are your hangers and shackles rusted?.....if you did need new differential gears maybe a shop could do it for $200 or $300( as opposed to JY one for $150 and a lot of work)........

I removed my bed when I did my hangers and shackles. it mad it a lot easier.......the rear end is more assemble then the hangers so on second thought maybe no need to remove it.....


i was being "a wise guy" with the "Logan" thing...........Chris North played Detective Mike "Logan" on law and order!