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98+ Ranger 4x4 build suspension


JoshT

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
5,396
City
Macon/Fort Valley, GA
State - Country
GA - USA
Vehicle Year
1999
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Engine
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
few inches
Tire Size
~30"
Not really sure how to title this so bear with me. As mentioned a few times around the forum, I'm highly considering changing directions on the build of my 99 Ranger. No need to get into the backstory, it's all out there somewhere. Simply put it is currently V8 swapped with 4R70W and AWD transfer case, and mildly lowered. Needs change and I'm not conpletely satisfied with the AWD streeet performance (likely combination of worn trans, suspension, and gearing). Due in large part to the "needs change" portion, I'm considering going back up and reinstalling a 4x4 transfer case. If I'm going back up I don't want to stop at a simple torsion twist, I will be installing a lift kit and bigger tires.

Anyhow trying to get a feel for what I want to put into the suspension. There are a few points that it will have or that I want to do, but not sure of the details on how to get there.

1) All suspension lift, no body lift. Don't like them and should be able to run all the tire I want/need on a suspension lift.
2) Ditch torsion bars, run coil overs.
3) Ditch lift blocks in favor of springs and longer shackles if necessary.
4) 33-35" tires. Not entirely sure what lift fits with what tires. Probably just 33" that might fit with a torsion twist, but want a better ride and clearence than what I'd get from that.
5) Swaybar disconnects. Definitely keeping them, but want to easily disconnect if necessary/desired.
6) 2004+ brakes in front, Explorer disc brake axle rear, hydroboost. (not really suspension, but will probably be tied in with the lifting)
7) Driveshafts likely needed considering other modifications, but will have to get parts installed to measure for custom.

I'm seeing that Rough Country and Superlift advertise lift kits for this generation Ranger, though have been told that the latter is discontinued. Are there any other options out there? I'm looking to go taller, but not notably wider. I don't see long travel kits and flared/bulged fenders being of any need or advantage for me.

Honestly my build will probably be 80% looks good (and driven to work), and 20% offroad, but I want it to be 100% capable. For me offroading will probably be more akin to what overlanders and the vegabond group will be doing, rather than the rock crawling and high difficulty trails in OHV parks. Not saying that I'm going to equip it for overlanding, I prefer having a stationary camp and exploring from, but that's the kind of terrain that I see myself hitting offroad. Maybe an overlanding type trailer to hook on when I want to adventure? No desert or dunes to get into in this part of the country, so not much in the way of high speed offroad running, and I don't care for the breakage that goes with extreme offroading.

The build is a ways off, but trying to develop a game plan and watch for deals on parts I plan to use. Before this happens, I need to get the transmission and transfer case sorted. At least the transmission rebuilt/replaced and the reansfer case on hand since it might require custom driveshafts to install (don't want to do that twice). Will be putting the F-100 in the shop for a complete rework before this happens and that is likely to take a year or few. Also possibly a move in there which will eat into time and budget, but it gets me closer to job and shop so means more time to work on stuff.
 
The easiest T case to install is a 4406 from a F150 and assuming you're running a stock Explorer front driveline you want a front driveline from a F150 or Expedition with a 4.6L, you'll need to get a 13-10 to 13-30 conversion joint for the front axle end of the shaft. For the rear shaft I don't know what you'll need, on a V8 Explorer you use the 5.4L rear shaft from an Expedition and it just bolts in but the length on a Ranger will likely be different... Expeditions didn't come with manual T cases, if you have the stuff to run an electric case you can use one of those too I believe...

As for lift and tire fitment I'm not sure, you'll probably want a 4" lift if I had to guess.
 
I know what I need for converting back to 4x4. Only issue there is I need to figure out how to positively ID a TOD 4406 from a part time ESOF 4406. Expeditions and maybe some F-150s had the automatic 4wd or torque on demand version of the 4406. I don't trust local yards to not try and give me a TOD case when I request the other.

The lifts already recommend a longer aftermarket front shaft with stock drivetrain. Couple the drivetrain swap with the lift, and I'm not going to count on the off the shelf parts fitting anymore. Will likely have to get a rear shaft made anyway, so getting a front too isn't that big a deal.

Not worried about the drivetrain here, just trying to figure out the suspension side. I know 32 can be installed in with a torsion bar twist, used to have that. Pretty sure a narrow 33 can be squeezed in, but I don't want to go there. It rode like crap with the bars preloaded like that, then they sagged right back down.

Will be going with the 4" super lift at a minimum. Don't know which is preferred between that and the 5" rough country, or if there is a better option out there than either of those. I kind of hate buying those whole kits when I'll only be using about half of it.
 
Soo… why not straight axle it if you’re looking to go that high?
 
Soo… why not straight axle it if you’re looking to go that high?

I might be abandoning the lowered AWD goal, but no need to be a smart ass.

I said in the OP (or meant to) that I wanted minimal fabrication. I said that I was looking for a good ride, not the harshness of a maxed out torsion bar twist. Both of those rule out even the simple version of a SAS.

Also a SAS on a SLA frame is going to end up as a lot more than a 4" lift by the time that you factor in clearance for the differential.

Yes, I want it to be fully capable, but that's fully capable within the realm of a SLA suspension. I understand that SAS, or even TTB are (or can be) stronger than an SLA, but that is a non-issue. I'm not the sort that is going to put the truck in situations where I'm going to be breaking stuff.
 
I might be abandoning the lowered AWD goal, but no need to be a smart ass.

I said in the OP (or meant to) that I wanted minimal fabrication. I said that I was looking for a good ride, not the harshness of a maxed out torsion bar twist. Both of those rule out even the simple version of a SAS.

Also a SAS on a SLA frame is going to end up as a lot more than a 4" lift by the time that you factor in clearance for the differential.

Yes, I want it to be fully capable, but that's fully capable within the realm of a SLA suspension. I understand that SAS, or even TTB are (or can be) stronger than an SLA, but that is a non-issue. I'm not the sort that is going to put the truck in situations where I'm going to be breaking stuff.
Hey, I haven’t had any coffee yet today, don’t shoot! :c-n:

I didn’t see you mention anything about a straight axle so I didn’t know if you considered it. Apparently you did consider it and it’s not for you and that’s fine.
 
Hey, I haven’t had any coffee yet today, don’t shoot! :c-n:

I didn’t see you mention anything about a straight axle so I didn’t know if you considered it. Apparently you did consider it and it’s not for you and that’s fine.

All good. No sleep last night, don't drink coffee, and not enough caffeine pills available to help. Also sarcasm doesn't carry well in written form, and there was definitely a bit of it there.

Definitely been a consideration, but never for this truck. I've got the husk of a Gen 1 RCSB 2wd sitting in the back yard. Before inheriting the F-150 I was considering a full size l SAS or TTB swap on it. That would be something to trailer to the trail head, not drive regularly even if it could be.

For now I'm wanting to consolidate some (not much) and that build doesn't have a place. Maybe someday, but not now. The F-100 is staying, the 99 is staying, and the F-150 is staying. At 200k miles, the Kia will stay until it dies, the convenience is worth more than I'd make on selling it. Pretty much everything else is going to go.
 
Do the coil overs...

The couple fellas here that did it speak pretty highly of the results.

Push the factory height specs a little... swallow your no body lift pride a little and do a one inch. I did... well I have all the lift pucks and pieced together hardware to do it. Honestly... just haven't felt good enough to install it.

That will give you everything you need for 33's. And the stance "looks" pretty damn good to me.

Keeping the torsion bars and up sizing to the big bars to carry the bumper... winch and the add on lbs the V8 brings would be the easy button and still be comfortable/capable enough to get yourself acceptable results... IMHO.

Which is basically my overall plan for mine... minus the V8.
 
Push the factory height specs a little... swallow your no body lift pride a little and do a one inch

Not swallowing anything. There will be no body lift. I don't like them, period.

I mentioned the F-100 going under the knife first. Guess what a large portion of that will be. If you said removing the body lift, you'd be right. It has a home brew 1" suspension lift and a 2" body lift, and once upon a time had 33s. Initially it's getting the body lift removed and running 32s (has those already). Long term it's probably getting a 4-6" suspension lift and going back to 33 or 35s. Of course, on it the lift is primarily for looks. Play it by ear and see how I like the 32s with less lift and go from there, fortunately 32s and no body lift doesn't add anything to total cost. It won't be doing much work or off-roading again, so looks are kind of key.

Other than the body lift, that's pretty much what I have in mind for the Ranger. Coilovers will definitely happen, even if I have to run the T-bars while I collect parts. Ideally the T-bars would never go back in with the lift kit. Selecting rear springs is where I think will be doing the most head scratching. Probably need to use what I have on hand to figure out where I like it, then have a custom spring pack made. Maybe I can use off the shelf parts from skyjacker or other source.
 
Not swallowing anything. There will be no body lift. I don't like them, period.

I mentioned the F-100 going under the knife first. Guess what a large portion of that will be. If you said removing the body lift, you'd be right. It has a home brew 1" suspension lift and a 2" body lift, and once upon a time had 33s. Initially it's getting the body lift removed and running 32s (has those already). Long term it's probably getting a 4-6" suspension lift and going back to 33 or 35s. Of course, on it the lift is primarily for looks. Play it by ear and see how I like the 32s with less lift and go from there, fortunately 32s and no body lift doesn't add anything to total cost. It won't be doing much work or off-roading again, so looks are kind of key.

Other than the body lift, that's pretty much what I have in mind for the Ranger. Coilovers will definitely happen, even if I have to run the T-bars while I collect parts. Ideally the T-bars would never go back in with the lift kit. Selecting rear springs is where I think will be doing the most head scratching. Probably need to use what I have on hand to figure out where I like it, then have a custom spring pack made. Maybe I can use off the shelf parts from skyjacker or other source.
So, I’m not sure what your dislike for body lifts is exactly. Once upon a time, I didn’t like them, thought it was dumb. My Choptop got a 2” body lift because back when I needed new body mounts all over and new hardware and at the time James Duff was running a deal and the body lift came with the hardware. The access it gave me to stuff was impressive. Enough that I picked up a set of 1” pucks for my 88 and pieced together the hardware for it. Makes things easier to get at.

For the rear, a lift spring for a Ranger is a lift spring for a Ranger.
 
impossible task is impossible.


oem sla is OEM sla. is what it is.

if you do not want to modify it for travel high or low then just live with it.
 

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