97 to 93 AutoHub Conversion

[Thor]

I have a 93' Ranger with autos I would like to use a set of Automatic Hubs from a 97 which I can get complete with cam and hub for free.

Only for snow use. Truck is getting old 295k KM.

Will the 97 auto hubs fit on the 93 spindles and work??

thanks for any info.

 

[4x4junkie]

They should work fine

 

[Thor]

Thanks...

Thanks I'm going off this info from:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/4wd_locking_hubs.htm
copyright AA1 Car. - - Hope it's ok to post here - -

Ford used Warn Automatic Hublocks Model M350 on Bronco II and Ranger with the Dana 28 Axle from 1983-90 (through build date 10/4/89). Warn Automatic Hublocks Models M350A and M350B were used on the Dana 35 Axle in Bronco II, Explorer and Ranger for 1990-93 (begin build date 10/5/89). Starting with model year 1994, Ford switched to Warn Automatic Hublock Model M350C on Dana 35 Axle in the Explorer and Ranger.

The Model M350 hublocks are black while the Model M350A, M350B and M350C are white/silver in color. The Model M350 can only be replaced by Model M350 service parts. The M350C service kits should be used as replacements for M350A hublocks (released 10/89 as model year 1990 running change), M350B hublocks (released 4/92 as model year 1992 late running change), and M350C hublocks (released 8/93 as model year 1994 Job 1 change).

When automatic hublock servicing is required for any Ranger, Explorer, or Bronco II built from 10/89 through model year 1993, it is advised that both hublocks be replaced.

Ford also says that if an M350A or M350B hublock requires servicing, all the hublock components must be removed and replaced with service kit F3TZ-3B396-B, which is essentially the same service kit for the M350C hublock. The cam assembly of the M350A or M35OB should NOT be used with an M350C automatic hublock body, nor should an M350A or M350B hublock body be used with an M350C cam assembly.

 

[4x4junkie]

That just means you need the cam assembly that goes with the hub (grab the thrust washers if they're there too, the later 3-piece setup is better than the solid ones).

 

[Thor]

Good, that's what I was hoping. Will keep an eye out for those thrust washers you mentioned.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Thor]

Splined washer

I had to get a new spline washer and clip to replace the old ones which were pretty chewed up.

I had to order them and the parts guy got me the solid ones. I had to tap the clips in because they were very tight and the shaft doesn't turn by hand they are that tight.

Although a light turn with a pipe wrench spins the shaft easily. Were they that tight when new?? That must be why they went to the three peice design to allow for movement. I guess when I said 93 ranger he got the 93 parts and not the upgraded ones. Should work though.

 

[4x4junkie]

Do you have all new seals on the rear of the spindle? If so, a bit of tightness is normal, although if you can't turn it by hand (maybe using a rag to grab onto it), then something may be wrong.

I think the reason for the switch to the 3-pc was because of wear (the spindle would sometimes wear a groove into the solid washer after awhile).

 

[Thor]

Yeah my solid washers are chewed up and that's why I got the new ones and the new clips seem tighter also. Even the c-clips looked like they were held on a bench grinder for a bit.

Axl will spin by hand with a rag on the spindle I bet, but I just grabbed pliers and they turned pretty easy.

No new seals but, I recall the last mechanic tightened up my wheel bearing nuts and he "shimmed" them so they would tighten up. Not sure if that is what the washer buts up to or not.

The autos have a real coarse adjustment on the bearing nuts so personally I grease them and then spin the nut a bit on the "tight side".

Time permitting I'll throw the other side on, where i set up the bearings correctly and see if it goes easier.