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'97 Ranger RABS Diagnostic Connector Location


RedRangerSTX

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
20
Age
41
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Manual
Hello,

I have a '97 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 STX with rear-only anti-lock brakes (RABS). The yellow anti-lock brake light is on in the gauge cluster. If I start the truck with my foot on the brake, the light does not come on until after I take my foot off the pedal. I tried replacing the speed sensor on the rear differential, but this did not make the light go out. I did a little research and supposedly there is a test connection under the dash where I can ground the black/orange wire in order to make the abs light flash a code. I can't seem to find this connector, and was wondering if a '97 is different than a '96 and older setup. I did find what the autozone repair info. website said was an abs test connector on the front of the power distribution block under the hood, which has a red and a green wire going to it. However, I do not know how to activate the light to flash a code with this connector, and didn't want to start blowing fuses by experimenting. Does anyone know if you can get the codes by using this connector? Better yet, does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the light to come on? If the speed sensor that I replaced was the issue, would the code erase itself, or would it need to be cleared? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
the speed sensor should have nothing to do with the abs light. if there is a problem with that, the check engine light comes on.

for the most part the 96 and 97 should be the same. they are both OBD2 so they both have ports under the dash for reading codes.

i dont know about this other port you mention for reading abs codes.
 
There is a big round connector on the firewall near the clutch, stuck on the wire haness is a little black connector about 2" long and a PITA to disconnect (I broke mine). Ground the orange/black wire with the key on and click it back together. The code will flash.
 
There is a big round connector on the firewall near the clutch, stuck on the wire haness is a little black connector about 2" long and a PITA to disconnect (I broke mine). Ground the orange/black wire with the key on and click it back together. The code will flash.

How do I do this? Do I have to do this? Mine truck is a '94. Is there a special code reader for ABS codes? I would like my red brake light and yellow abs light to go off. They are stuck on permanently. I replaced the sensor in the differential already.
 
My '93 was the same.
I found a used RABS valve (on frame rail) on ebay, cheap. End of lights. works great. Probably your old dirty brake fluid corroded the unit. That stuff really is supposed to be changed!
 
I have my yellow ABS light comming on intermitingly this last week, it sometimes just stays on but today it didnt come on. I will try to find a code by doing the above procedure. Also how can I tell if I have RABS or 4WABS? I also have the ford factory shop manuels and briefly looked though it but without knowing what system or having their special code puller. I tried with my OBD 2 and no codes came through. I figured the brakes had their own code memory. I also noticed that their codes started with a C, rather than P for engine codes.

I am sure I will have more questions...

Keith
 
I'm having an abs warning light issue myself. It's on a 94 4-banger. I have been trying to trouble shoot it with the help of a Chilton's manual and this site but so far no luck.

When I turn the ignition on, my light does a continuous series of 16 short blinks and then one long blink. I believe that I have found the test connector, but even after I ground it, it just continues to blink the same series. Below is a picture of the connector. (can anyone confirm that this is the correct wire?)

ABS test connector

From the abs flash code chart in Chilton’s, it says that “16 or more flashes should not occur”. Well, mine is flashing 16 times and I’ve got no idea why. Anyone have any suggestions for me? I’ll consider just about anything.

Movie of my abs light blinking. (it may take a while to download, it's 3.5 MB)

Thanks
Chris
 
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There is a big round connector on the firewall near the clutch, stuck on the wire haness is a little black connector about 2" long and a PITA to disconnect (I broke mine). Ground the orange/black wire with the key on and click it back together. The code will flash.

what he is talking about is for OBD-1 systems, they have been obsolet on rangers since 1995. if your truck is '95 or newer, your truck does not have this. your truck is obd-2 and the connector is under the dash by the hood release, and has a little cover. most repair shops have obd2 readers that can read abs codes. the ones that autozone and other cheap ones, do not have the capability to read ABS codes.. most likely your abs sensor up front has attracted enough brake dust to give a false reading (because it is magnetic), or you reluctor ring (what the magnet reads) is missing a fin, the ring is built into your front brake rotor. it could even be a cut wire. and i believe that all 4x4's 1993 and up, have standard 4 wheel abs, and only two wheel drives have just rear.
P.S. check your brake fluid as well
 
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and i believe that all 4x4's 1993 and up, have standard 4 wheel abs, and only two wheel drives have just rear.
P.S. check your brake fluid as well

i dont think that is true because i have a 4x4 1994 and i only have rabs
 
Yeah, I have a 1999 4x4, and it's RABS too. It may have more to do with the options package and/or trim-level... mine's only XL trim... hand-cranked windows... 5-spd...

... I'm *GLAD* I don't have "real" (complex, all-wheel) ABS... OTOH, I don't live in an area that gets snow or ice, and I drive like a First Worlder, not a Third Worlder...

... Also, my '99 has that 2-wire connecter near the master cylinder/fuse box area... Chilton's doesn't really cover it... as usual. :rolleyes:
 
For the 97 Ranger: Remove fuse #9 and ground the cold side where the fuse was that has NO voltage for a couple of seconds with the key on. This is the same as grounding the diagnostic connector. Works like a charm.
 
For the 97 Ranger: Remove fuse #9 and ground the cold side where the fuse was that has NO voltage for a couple of seconds with the key on. This is the same as grounding the diagnostic connector. Works like a charm.

Thanks Blair! Worked great on my '97! :yahoo:

I got error code 12 - "Fluid level switch grounded during a RABS stop", according to the Autozone instructions. My ABS light turns on whenever I take my foot off the brake after I start the truck. Anyone else had this code before? If so, what does it mean? What would I need to replace?
 
Hello,

I have a '97 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 STX with rear-only anti-lock brakes (RABS). The yellow anti-lock brake light is on in the gauge cluster. If I start the truck with my foot on the brake, the light does not come on until after I take my foot off the pedal. I tried replacing the speed sensor on the rear differential, but this did not make the light go out. I did a little research and supposedly there is a test connection under the dash where I can ground the black/orange wire in order to make the abs light flash a code. I can't seem to find this connector, and was wondering if a '97 is different than a '96 and older setup. I did find what the autozone repair info. website said was an abs test connector on the front of the power distribution block under the hood, which has a red and a green wire going to it. However, I do not know how to activate the light to flash a code with this connector, and didn't want to start blowing fuses by experimenting. Does anyone know if you can get the codes by using this connector? Better yet, does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the light to come on? If the speed sensor that I replaced was the issue, would the code erase itself, or would it need to be cleared? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Is your 97 RABS or RABS 2? In 97 they used both and they are not the same. Try looking under the kick panel on the passenger side of the cab for the connector you use to get the codes to flash.
 
That post is 17 years old. If they haven't figured it out by now they aren't going to.
 

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