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97 Ranger Electrical Issue/Died


MJRF100

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Messages
3
City
West MI
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Automatic
Hello All,

I've been a long time lurker, first time poster. I'm looking for your help with my 97 4.0 Ranger. I was driving home and it ran great until I noticed it stopped changing gears, the guages/lights and radio cut out followed by a beeping noise. It ran rough down the road another half mile and eventually died. I towed it home and charged the battery. With the key on, the fuel pump relay makes a clicking noise. I can't get my code reader to establish a connection. Any ideas or insight is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael
 
is the battery fully charged? if not wait until it is and see how it runs and check the alternator output
 
I assume automatic trans, 4x2 or 4x4?

I would check all the fuses in the Power box, reads like the power to computer(PCM) was cut off, and power to the dash board.
Could even be bad ignition switch, under steering column
 
I checked all the fuses, all good there. I charged the battery but still cannot get it to crank over. Solenoid clicks and cuts out completely. After I tried cranking battery voltage was ~9V. Was 12 when I started. I'm thinking the battery is shot after all this. Truck is an auto trans. 4x4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, either battery or the cables.
Make sure ground cable is good at BOTH ends, 12volts is only 12 volts if you have 0 volts(ground)

Battery should test with 12.8 volts when new.
12.5 volts after 2 to 3 years

12.2 volts means battery is on it's last legs, next cold snap and engine will not crank.

When cranking engine(starter motor is turning), battery voltage should drop no lower than 9.5v volts, 10volts is better, that is called a load test
 
Last edited:
You could take a voltmeter and measure from the negative side of the battery and the motor. Try it without ignition on, with ignition on, and then while your trying to start the truck. You should read 0 volts. If you don't read 0 there is a bad ground. You can also after trying to start the truck feel the cables for heat. A warm cable could mean trouble a hot cable is definitely trouble.
 
I checked into the battery, it was an older one and didn't have the cranking amps anymore. Replaced that to find out the alternator wasn't producing enough of a charge. Also replaced positive cable since there was some corrosion and the coating was starting to peel. Ended up being a cumulative problem. All good now. Thanks to everyone for the help. It is much appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for telling us what you found. You just might have helped somebody else.
 

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