97 Instrument Cluster Lights

[Tractor Dan]

Ok. Here is what i have going on. I was on my way home yesterday and as it was getting darker i realized i had no dash lights behind the gauges. So i stop and shut the lights off. Turn them back on and still nothing. I still have headlights that work. Also my turn signal indicators and idiot lights all work. It's just the lights behind the gauges. Also the dimmer switch for the lights is in the proper position for the lights to be lit up and when i turn it all the way up the lights on the back of the cab next to the third brake light comes on. So i think i have isolated to the gauge cluster alone. I got on the tech library here and found the wiring diagram. Checked the three fuses i believe slots 10,11,and 19 and all were good. So i'm kind of stumped here. I mean looking at the diagram i see atleast 6 bulbs and i don't see how all 6 could have blown at once unless for some odd reason they were wired that way. So what do yall think is going on here? I'm trying to get an idea of what i may find before i get into this. I have had the truck since 2008 and never been into the dash wiring at all. Other then putting in the aftermarket radio and wiring up off road lights. Also i have no lights behind my blower control knobs. I still have light over to my radio though which if me and dad read the diagram right that's wired into the circuit. So any ideas or thoughts are appreciated. I would rather go in potentially prepared for battle then unarmed.

 

[rtg143]

I'd check the instrument cluster switch first. The rheostat may have gone bad. There should be power in to it. Check for power there with the headlights on and the light blue/red wire should have power when turned to on before the dome light position.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Ok. I'll give that a try. Guess i'm off in 95 degree heat to take my dash apart. Glad i got my 99 cougar as a back up car until i figure this out. Guess i shouldn't have told my grandma the truck was running strong yesterday with no issues, murphys law kicked in and now i have this problem.

 

[shane96ranger]

Out of curiosity, do the lights for the heat and a/c still function properly? The 96 I sold is doing that to the guy I sold it to but the radio and temp control lights still work, and dim as they should. All fuses check out fine as well. I need to dig into it soon for him.

Sent while I should be doing something else

 

[Tractor Dan]

Only thing that still has light on that particular circuit is the radio in my truck. The control knobs and all instrument lights are out. I got the dash pulled apart but now can't get the gauge cluster out. Gonna get a T15 torx screwdriver. I highly advise it. Ohh and another word of advice. When getting the trim panel that sits above the steering column. Once it's loose to make it easier getting it out. Turn your key forward. Put the brake down and drop the gear shift as low as it goes. Then drop the tilt steering as low as it goes. Slides right out and no cussing and screaming. Though there is a lot of sweating if it's 90+ degrees out like today. Gotta love what we will do for these trucks. That being said my old girl has always been there for me no matter what. Even though i had to bring her back from the brink of death.

 

[rtg143]

Was there power at the rheostat? Both in and out on the blue/red?

 

[Tractor Dan]

I'm not sure on power out of the red and blue. I tried testing the pigtail that plugs into the switch and got nothing. Now i went to autozone to buy a torxdriver and showed the person the switch and she told me how to test it. So i just came home and tested that and if looking at the switch from the bottom up found the bottom is a groound. I tested the pin above it for resistance. Nothing but a 1 on my meter. I tested the pin above that which would be pin 3 and got a reading of .8 on that when i rolled the switch all the way up to the position where it turns on your dome and outer cablights at the top rear of the cab. I also tested pin 4 and got nothing but a 1 as a reading for resistance. So i'm guessing the switch is probably bad because i would think if i were to roll that wheel up and down i should get a variation in resistance for either pin 2 or 4? Hope that helps. Electrical isn't my specialty. I'm more of a mechanical guy. I send the electrical stuff to my mechanic if it's hard or time consuming.

 

[rtg143]

There should be power in the brown wire when the headlight switch is on. Then when you roll the switch up, it should power the light blue/red wire.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Ok. I'll check that out tomorrow. Too dark to work on anymore. I just gotta figure out how to backprobe the wires when the switches are connected. Not sure i'll be able to get the meter probes in there. Guess i could rig up something i got enough scrap wire and stuff laying around.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Apparently it was a fuse. I checked the same fuse saturday and it was good. Went to my mechanics today to pick his brain on what it could be. We got a test light and checked each fuse. Found a blown one and replaced it. Sure enough my lights came back. So i don't know what on earth caused this but i'm keeping an eye on it. I will be replacing all bulbs though since i have it apart and whatnot. Just out of curiosity though. I found two fuses we tested that didn't cause it to light up. So we pulled them and both were fine. We also checked with the truck running. Still no light up on the test light. Any idea why this could be? Are these maybe spare or auxillary circuits?

 

[rtg143]

What are the fuses for? Some fuses don't have power until the switch is turned on.

 

[shane96ranger]

What number fuse was it?

 

[Tractor Dan]

I'll have to look tomorrow. I know it was one that was midway down the fuse box and the other was way at the bottom and it went vertical instead of horizontal. My mechanic wasn't sure what they were for without pulling info up and he was getting ready to close up. Normally he would stay over but he had to go do some work for a friend so had to be out of there on time. I'll try and figure it out and see what it could be. If i make it in to town i'll stop at the library maybe and look at the haynes manual they have for my truck.

 

[rtg143]

Check Autozones free online manuals too. If you want to check the owners manual, you can download one for free here. https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

 

[Tractor Dan]

Thanks for posting that link. It reminded me i had that manual saved on my computer and had forgot about it. Checked it out and it appears as if both slots are just unused slots that for some reason the previous owner had fuses in. Guessing extras. I have only had to replace one fuse in there since i bought the truck in 08. Oddly though after i played with the fuses my check engine light came on. So i unhooked the battery for 30 minutes yesterday. Hooked it back up. Still there. Go to autozone today and it's throwing a P1400 code which is related to the EGR system. Believe it's the pressure or something to do with that. So any clue why it would throw an odd code when the truck is running fine and the check engine light hadn't been on for over a year till now? I got the battery unhooked right now leaving it for a few hours then gonna hook it back up and see if the code cleared. Gotta love these quick disconnect terminals.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...uick-Clamp/_/N-25nk?itemIdentifier=95965_0_0_

Not sure if anyone has ever seen these but i bought them on a whim when i blew my alternator this last time. We found out it was probably from the terminals. Seeing as they were cracked. Not the posts the actual terminals. They were so bad dad snapped one in half. So just thought i would mention those. They have made my life so easy and i put them on my friends protege when i done her alternator and battery and she loves them. Only thing i have found is occasionally you gotta tighten the nut a hair.