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97 dash into 84


84tony

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
85
City
Charlestown, IN
Vehicle Year
1984
Engine
Transmission
Manual
To make a long story short, I have a 84 Ranger 2.8 that has been sitting for several years and doesn't run. I also have 97 Ranger 2.3 that was side swiped and totaled a couple of weeks ago. My plan is to take the drivetrain from the 97 and put in the 84, I know that will be almost a direct bolt in. However my real question is will the dash and AC unit from the 97 fit in the 84 (no AC) or is there a lot of fabrication to make it fit/work? I have seen that the 93-94 dash pretty much bolt right in, but I haven't found much on 95+. If it will fit in the 84 I will also be using all the wiring harness from the 97, except maybe the exterior lights.
 
I put a 96 dash into an 88 cab so yours should work. Just needs a bit of modification to the firewall.

I also put the 88 cab on the 96 frame because the frame was in better shape and had more options than the 88...so if the frame is good on the 97 I would suggest considering that...unless it is standard to extended...that will also work but you will have a big gap that can be filled with a longer box...or whatever...storage bin between...whatever.

Anyway...yes...what you are asking will work...
 
Thanks Mark 88 and the 97 is a super cab and 84 a standard cab. It looks like the frame is bent on the 97 also. What kind of modifying did you have to do to the firewall?

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
Not much, actually. There is a brace that the steering column attaches to on the early Rangers that needs to be removed...meaning that you need to use the steering column from the 97...which is fine because it bolts to the dash bracket.

I put in the brake/clutch pedal support from the 96 also for my application which you might want to consider...it took a bit of cutting and filing to make that work but I got it mounted and it was very secure when I finished.

The dash bolts to the side of the cab with only a couple of contact places on the firewalll so most of the strength is needed by the pillars. I used some of the newer angle iron and fastened that to the side pillars then bolted the dash to those.

I didn't get a chance to drive it on the road to try to shake it down to see how well it would hold, but I don't think it would be any worse than the original.

Main thing for my dash was I decided to swap the heater box over so the dash would line up properly. That required more firewall cutting but it all went in and was fully functional when I finished...even better because of the side vents on the 96 dash that the older dash did not have...so defrost was great.

I did spend some time in sitting in the truck last winter and ran it to heat up and defrost the windows...and it was way better...more heat because I also swapped in a set of 92 doors that sealed better than my original doors....

I have some pictures but not many...I will post some below and you might be able to browse the whole album...

http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/akwarian8/slideshow/Truck Build
 
Thanks Mark 88 that helps me a lot. I will check out pics tomorrow when I can get to my computer instead of my phone.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
OK...that album is a bit cluttered...and i didn't put up pictures of the wiring...

The wires go through the firewall in the same area as early Rangers, but the hole is bigger and they are sockets that are connected on the engine compartment side. In 1998 they moved them up to the cowl area...I think...could have been1997...so check where they go through the firewall because that is another modification.

The PCM also mounts through the firewall on the passenger side...mine was secured under the hood and not sitting in the firewall like it was on the 96...this would have been OK as long as the unit was held in place and protected against moisture...something else to consider on this type of modification but not a difficult solution...

I was considering building a slot for the PCM in the heater box where the AC would normally go but did not go ahead with that...it would have been a bit hot for the PCM anyway...:)
 
Mark 88 I looked at your pictures this morning, doesn't look like a whole lot of modification. I should be able to handle that and make my dash work. Do you have a picture of the dash completely installed and did you use the plastic windshield pillar posts from your 88 or from the 96?
 
I have some other pics that I haven't had time to upload yet. They do show the almost completed dash...I will upload them soon...took them off my computer thinking it was no longer needed but forgot to upload them.

I used the 88 pillar trim and was going to use the 88 kick panels...they both fit that space. The problem with the kick panels is the 96 has a different wire feed for the doors. There is a fairly large connector that sits nicely into the 96 kick panel thanks to a recess but there was no recess on the 88. I didn't actually finish that part either because of timing but was going to simply cut that part out. I didn't use the alarm system or the fob to lock and unlock the doors...didn't even consider swapping over all that mess and used the 92 doors.

Which reminds me...you may need to consider the PATS...I think 96 was the last year without it and it can be a PITA if you do not install all the components.

Mine had an aftermarket Viper alarm (still have it) that I eventually figured out and removed without causing further stress (I hate those chirpy little things)...it really got on my nerves when it disabled my starting the truck and the horns blaring and buzzers sounding...until I killed it. LOL.
 
I just went through a bunch of pics but couldn't find the ones showing the finished product. I did separate them a bit more into another album...shows the dash installed but not the pillar trim.

http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/akwarian8/slideshow/Truck Build/1988 cab 1996 dash swap

Also one shows the brake booster and pedal assembly from the 96 installed...wanted to mention that if you use the 97 wiring the wiper motor on the 84 is a 4 wire while all later versions were 6 wires...this will work but you need to combine the ground wires into one and body ground it...so 4 wires to 6 wires is not a problem...I was thinking I would have to change the motor and all kinds of new problems...but not needed. The column switch on mine worked perfectly for all functions...
 
Thanks again Mark 88 you have been extremely helpful. No PATS on my 97. I plan on using everything from the 97 except for the exterior light harness. No power windows or locks.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
Exterior lights can work too. I converted my front end to the 92 using the 92 Halogen bulbs (9004 instead of 9007) but technically you can wire them retrofitted. There is also a retrofit pigtail that I saw on LMC or somewhere.

It gets complicated with the tail lights though. The newer harnesses use three bulbs instead of two and there is a workaround that you can do to make them use the two bulb lenses on the older Rangers (up to 1992 at least). Another TRS member posted the workaround so it is on here somewhere if you need it.

You can actually modify the 88 to 92 lenses (maybe earlier) to take a third socket if you happen to have a spare set that you can butcher. Take the lower bulb holder out, cut the hole and replace the outer lens and superglue the spare bulb to the other lens in the middle position. Takes a bit of work and fine cutting but doable.

I decided to simply use the three bulbs and install the backup lights on the rear bumper or cut an opening and place them inside that...didn't finish that part either but I explained how to do it to the new owner.
 
Yeah I didn't want to mess with the lights, other than maybe just splice into headlight switch. After looking at my Rangers today, I might just cut the complete firewall out of the 97 and put in the 84. I will have to measure to make sure the dimensions are the same. If they are it may save time in the long run.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
That's actually not a bad idea for the firewall and I'm sure it will make the front end stronger and better suited for swapping everything over. I do know the 96 (third gen) body was slightly wider than previous versions but still everything could, hypothetically be interchanged with some creative welding and such.

There is also the possibility that you could weld in the sections of the side walls where the dash needs to be bolted. They are very close in a lot of ways but there is that glaring difference in how the dash is bolted in.

I'm sure you will figure it all out as to what works best for your situation...and I will stay tuned if you plan on doing a build thread or just add to this one. Nothing like seeing someone else do the work...eh!
 
I'll probably start a new thread when I start converting over. I am still waiting on the insurance company from the guy that hit my 97. This will probably be a fall/winter project. I will probably take the 97 completely apart try to sell or scrap anything I know I won't be using first.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

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