96 suffers 1st big problem... In need of some good help!

[DangerRanger96]

I'm hearing all the advice... I just can't imagine the room to drop the pan to clean it and replace the stuff with the tranny connected? Again, I have NOOO idea, never did it. Local Ford shop mech. ( a buddies co-worker ) tells me that it has to be broke and pulled. ????????????? anybody want to buy a used ranger???

 

[Will]

dont worry about seperating the engine and trans, use the engine hoise to lift the engine once all the bolts are out, use a pry bar and some brains, and it should wiggle lose easy enough. Dont fuk around with trying to flush it out, odds are some shits gotten into the oil gallerys and ya, better save then sorry.

That baked on crap is most likely from running with a faulty PCV valve for a long period of time. Breaking it up that rapidly was bad, but there's no reason it should be in the oil galleries. It's going into the pan and clogging up the oil pump pickup and possibly the filter. If you could spend $100 and get most of it out, the additives in oil will dissolve the rest of it. Taking it apart without trying to simply wash the crap out through the sump is a waste of money and unneccesary. There's a lot of risk involved in an amateur pulling apart this complicated of a vehicle. You snap off a stud in the exhaust manifold and you are fawked, for instance. There's a hundred different things you could bump on the firewall and break, you could damage the tranny input shaft-converter-tranny pump whatever, screw up the fuel line connections, put something back together wrong and it won't run--or it gets really damaged. You don't do investigative brain surgery for a headache.

I would flush that bastard with a home-made flush device I described. Maybe even put a 5-gallon pail under the sump drain and run it overnight through it. All you have to do is get it where it will keep pressure and it will take care of itself. The screen and filter are not going to let that stuff hurt the motor. Once it will hold pressure then you can change the oil every couple of days and see if it's getting clear.

 

[AllanD]

Ok, you want the unvarnished truth from someone who really KNOWS?

Here goes:

You NEED to pull the engine from the chassis.

The oil pan CANNOT COME OFF of a 4.0 in the chassis even with the transmission removed.

What is your problem?

It's like this, the "varnish" and "sludge" buildup inside your engine
(and for that matter inside ANY engine) is composed of materials that are the result of chemical reactions between combustion products and lubricating oil.

If they WERE oil soluble they would stay in solution with the oil.

Kerosene won't dissolve them, why? because kerosene is OIL!

The reason they stick to the inside of the block and pan is because those substances are NOT "oil soluble".
They are somewhat water soluble, so when you have an "event" that allows water into the crank case and sump the water "washes" the varnish off the inside of the block where it settles in chunks in the oil pan.

This plugs the oil pump pickup screen.

NOTHING short of removing the oil pan and HAND CLEANING the oil pickup screen
will accomplish anything worth of note except to increase your basic frustration.

In the engine bearings MAY actually still be servicable.
(don't borrow trouble, you'll get your own share soon enough)

I have seen THREE 4.0's that experienced plugged pickups
and all ran for a considerable time (in one case 80K miles)
after their plugged screen "incidents"

Trust me, you can keep diddling around with "shortcuts"
that are only wasting your time or you can dig in and do
what needs to be done and get it over with.

The pickup is clogged and it must be cleaned.
There is no "mechanic in a can" or solvent that will dissolve
it in place.

AD

 

[DangerRanger96]

Well put! I've come to that same conclusion myself. I'm looking to find a local mechanic to do it, without bending me over and having me grab my ankles! (good luck huh?) I am really considering doing it myself. I have all the tools needed, and feel I am inclinded enough to handle it. Been reading, looking and learning. I already had the top half off and harness off... To me, the biggest problems will come from the headers and time it takes to unbolt and drop the tranny. While I'm in there, I will change the pump, replace the timing/water pump gaskets, belt and put new valve covers on it. Might as well do it all one time, WHILE ITS OUT! Thanks to all the guys and their info. Wish me luck in either that i do. I'll post back once I've done it, or slit my wrists trying, J/K.
thanks again,

 

[DangerRanger96]

UPDATE THE PROBLEM...
I've found a 95 4.0 with 31,000 miles locally. Gonna buy it for $675.00 Waiting for price to swap em out. I couldn't see putting money into that older motor with 203,000 on it. Maybe if I was the original owner and new the maintenace record, or the type of miles it had. So, I'm wondering your guys opinion? Did I make a good choice here? Is that older motor worth selling for a couple buck? I plan on dropping the pan, cleaning it up, replace oil pump and screen along with all gaskets. It will have 203,000 miles, new valve/intake/waterpump/timing gaskets and new oil pump/screen. Thanks for all the help and input. Waiting for your opinions now..

 

[woodyedmiston]

Now you are on the right track. Listen to Mr. AllanD. You can take the engine out and R&R w/o taking the trans. Get a book - get help - go slow. Most of the wiring has specific connectors that you can't do wrong. Be sure the water pump is good on your new motor esp. if it is from a wreck. I changed out mine when I did what you are about to do - but it was not noticeable at first that the water pump shaft was bent on the old one. I'd remove the valve covers and the pan - just to make sure some bug hasn't made a nest, or . . .

If you were closer to Texas I might be interested in the motor - but Ohio is a bit off of my regular schedule. Someone might want it - the heads are worth a little money even as cores if they aren't cracked.

 

[DangerRanger96]

Hey woody... what is a decent price for the engine if I was to do those things too it? Or, should I just let it go as is?

 

[DangerRanger96]

UPDATE
Thanks to all the great advice I received in making my decision. I went with a used 95 4.0 with 31,000 miles. Cost me $720.00 out the door. Found a local shop to make the switch for me for $500.00. Truck is there now... thanks again guys!!!

 

[DangerRanger96]

Truck is done today. Put the 31,000 mile motor in it. Had a local shop do the swap. Let you know how it is later!

 

[AgPete139]

Update? How's the "new" motor running?

 

[DangerRanger96]

New motor purrrrs like a kitten. Can't beleive how smooth things went! Only had to buy a new belt and it runs great and throws NO codes!! I've starting pricing parts for it now... never was going to sink money into it... but hell, its paid for...31,000 miles on the motor, and the body is great if not excellent for a 96. So, I'm going to paint it a metalic pewter... raise it 2" ( leveling kit ) put some black teflon rims and some 32's on it. Bucket seats will be in this weekend ( with center consol)... I'll get some before pics...and then put up the afters. Paint won't happen till last ofcourse! Thanks again for all the great input......KICK ASS PEOPLE ON A KICK ASS SITE!!!