96 3.0L Serpentine belt squeal - please help me troubleshoot it

[98v70dad]

I recently replaced my alternator and while I was at it I put on a new Gates belt. I compared both the belt and the alternator pulley with the originals and they were both identical. I get a squeal as soon as the starter stops turning. It squeals for a second and stops almost immediately. I've checked that the belt is centered on the pulleys and is tracking right as far as I can tell.

I had a heck of a time getting the belt tensioner to loosen so I could take the old belt off. For watever reason the spring seemed to be stuck. I had to manhandle it to get it to move. So I suspect the tensioner needs to be replaced. I also had to take the idler pulley off to get better access. The idler pulley was an easy off and on so I doubt that is my problem.

Anyhow, the tensioner is sort of an expensive part so I don't just want to guess. What do you guys think? I'm not sure spraying the belt with water to help troubleshoot because the squeal stops right after starting the truck.

 

[4.0blue98]

When you had the belt off did you spin all the pulleys to see if they were smooth and free turning?

I'd replace the tensioner before I worry about much else. If the spring is sticking then it probably isn't maintaining the appropriate tension.

 

[98v70dad]

When you had the belt off did you spin all the pulleys to see if they were smooth and free turning?

I'd replace the tensioner before I worry about much else. If the spring is sticking then it probably isn't maintaining the appropriate tension.

Thanks, I did not spin the pulleys. But, I have never had a problem including any squealing before I worked on it. The truck only has about 80,000 miles on it. I really had to yank on the tensioner to get the spring loose. It seems odd that I never had any problems before I put on the new belt if the tensioner spring was stuck. The alternator I bought came with a new pulley. It looks the same as the old one other than the coating on it which is pretty shiny. I could also put the OEM pulley on the new alternator and see what that does.

 

[Curious Hound]

Check the tensioner. You might even be able to clean and lubricated the spring mechanism and make it work better.

It sounds like when the engine first starts and comes up to speed, it pulls the tensioner a little bit. But the tensioner is not springing back into position fast enough. It’s dirty and sticking.

 

[Grumpaw]

If it is the tensioner, new Ford part runs about 30-35 bucks for new complete tensioner, and is only attached by one bolt.
Simple install. Have to remove belt and possibly radiator shroud, but easily done.
Grumpaw

 

[98v70dad]

Check the tensioner. You might even be able to clean and lubricated the spring mechanism and make it work better.

It sounds like when the engine first starts and comes up to speed, it pulls the tensioner a little bit. But the tensioner is not springing back into position fast enough. It’s dirty and sticking.

That's kind of what I thought too. Its a bit of a pain to get off and I did have to beat the hell out of it to get it loose so I may have damaged it - don't know. Is there enough room from behind to put some PB blaster on it without getting it all over the belt? I figured my first try would be to see if I could loosen it up while its still installed if that's possible.

 

[Curious Hound]

Just take the belt off. Then you won’t get oil in it

 

[Grumpaw]

That's kind of what I thought too. Its a bit of a pain to get off and I did have to beat the hell out of it to get it loose so I may have damaged it - don't know. Is there enough room from behind to put some PB blaster on it without getting it all over the belt? I figured my first try would be to see if I could loosen it up while its still installed if that's possible.

If you have to go to the trouble of taking belt off again, and are going to try to loosen it up, might as well just replace it.
Heck, I keep a new spare in our Ford based motorhome for just such an emergency. I consider it a throw away part...cheaper to replace than to risk it crapping out on you again.
Grumpaw

 

[98v70dad]

If it is the tensioner, new Ford part runs about 30-35 bucks for new complete tensioner, and is only attached by one bolt.
Simple install. Have to remove belt and possibly radiator shroud, but easily done.
Grumpaw

Where do you get a new ford part for that price? Way more expensive than that (about double plus shipping) every place I checked. Yeah, easy job if you have the time to do it.

 

[98v70dad]

Just take the belt off. Then you won’t get oil in it

Well, good advice (obvious actually) but I'm not so good at putting the belt on. It took me a long time. I don't have anyone to help me and it kept slipping off the crankshaft pulley. I've replaced serpentine belts on many other cars with no problems. For whatever reason the ranger took me about 15 trys. A lot of cussing finally got the job done.

 

[Grumpaw]

My bad...looked up 1996 Ford Ranger 3.0 belt tensioner and it came up as a BT-68. Looks like it should be a BT-74, Amazon, around 52 bucks.
Just depends on which exact one you need.
Still, if it continues to squeal, usually meand the pully bearing is going bad or spring is shot not putting proper tension on belt. These are a ware item and at 80,000 miles just cheaper to replace than mess with.
Grumpaw

 

[RonD]

The squeal means you are loosing friction on one of the pulleys, so belt is sliding on it, I know DUH

It does it at start up because engine is going from 200RPM, starter motor crank speed, to 1,500rpm, the REV from IAC Valve being opened all the way for start up, thats normal

Power steering pump is hardest pulley to turn, some notice squealing when turning the steering wheel, thats is why

What can happen is that pulleys get "glazed" from slipping belt, glazing makes pulley surface too smooth, like glass smooth so belt loses friction
You can rough up pulley surface with Emory cloth or by painting the surface
Main crank pulley for sure as thats whats jumping from 200 to 1,500rpms in a few seconds
And power steering pulley

And yes a loose belt will do that as well, so failing tensioner can cause the squeals

Also, make sure you have belt routed as shown on diagram in engine bay, I know, but most can go on with a different routing so just check

 

[Josh B]

I've never had a moments worry with mine in any way, it really never even crossed my mind to.

Altho a few days ago it did squeel like a squeeky sheave in an oil derrick( I think it was the 1st day we had a hard freeze) I thought it was maybe the adjuster pulley bearing and bought one at autozone for 20ish but when I pulled the pulley off it didn't appear to be so loose so I just stuck it back on

 

[Josh B]

Well, good advice (obvious actually) but I'm not so good at putting the belt on. It took me a long time. I don't have anyone to help me and it kept slipping off the crankshaft pulley. I've replaced serpentine belts on many other cars with no problems. For whatever reason the ranger took me about 15 trys. A lot of cussing finally got the job done.

You need a longer handled 3/8 swivel-neck ratchet(pawnshop/fleamarket etc). Stand beside the left front fender and pull, if it doesn't clear start over with a longer bite. Pull it clear and hold it in place with one hand while you remove/replace belt with the other, then VERY carefully and slowly release tension on the ratchet. It can be a struggle but is very do-able

 

[98v70dad]

If you have to go to the trouble of taking belt off again, and are going to try to loosen it up, might as well just replace it.
Heck, I keep a new spare in our Ford based motorhome for just such an emergency. I consider it a throw away part...cheaper to replace than to risk it crapping out on you again.
Grumpaw

Agree

 

[98v70dad]

My bad...looked up 1996 Ford Ranger 3.0 belt tensioner and it came up as a BT-68. Looks like it should be a BT-74, Amazon, around 52 bucks.
Just depends on which exact one you need.
Still, if it continues to squeal, usually meand the pully bearing is going bad or spring is shot not putting proper tension on belt. These are a ware item and at 80,000 miles just cheaper to replace than mess with.
Grumpaw

Rock Auto says its a BT-22. BT-22 may cross to BT-74 or something else. I don't trust amazon to tell me the right part number - too many errors from them in the past. I find it somewhere else and then search that number on amazon. Amazon almost always has a good price though.