'95 Ranger, 3L, High Idle, Low pwr, Dies

[jamichau]

My son's Ranger has developed a problem which causes it to idle very high from a cold start, it shortly settles down, but still idles higher than normal. Also, idle sometimes slows way down and almost dies or will die completely. After that, it occasionally does not want to start. I have read similar posts that discuss cleaning the IAC, so we'll try that. Through trial and error, he found that disconnecting the vacuum line from a component (don't know what it's called) on the passenger side of the motor, on top of the intake manifold, next to the oil fill tube and plugging the vacuum line by hand returns engine to normal idle. I have uploaded a photo. Thanks!

 

[Tractor Dan]

That part is your EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve). I'm guessing it's most likely bad. I would wait until some other people chime in though seeing as that's one thing i have not replaced on my 97 nor had issues out of so i don't know if your symptoms are sign of the valve it's self being bad or if it's something else within that system. Hopefully some more people will chime in here but thought i would atleast tell you what it is to maybe help your research along.

 

[Rearanger]

On other vehicles I have owned the EGR could be removed and cleaned. They are usually robust valves as they see exhaust gases. An open EGR will stall the engine at idle and if partially open will induce a vacuum leak into the engine.

You should research the EGR control system for your 95 as it may not be the valve itself, but the system that opens and closes it.

 

[det107]

That is your fuel pressure regulator.

X2

 

[jamichau]

I did some searching around for images of EGRs and Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR) and I think it looks most like an FPR:


Thanks to all for your replies. To add some more info, today, after driving the truck about 15 miles and letting it sit for awhile (30-60 minutes), it wouldn't start. About 30 minutes after that, it finally started. Don't know if this was because it cooled down, or what?

 

[Rearanger]

Raw fuel may be leaking through the regulator to that vac line and into the intake. That will give you rich/flooding, stall, no start, poor idle, etc.

 

[jamichau]

We put a code reader on it and got a P1443, EVAP system. That involves a lot of parts. He bought an Evaporative Canister Purge Valve, $72. We installed it, no help. He had to push start the truck. There is another EVAP component in-line with the Purge Valve, a few inches closer to the intake, don't know what it's called. Don't know if replacing that would help? I suppose it could be the computer code is independent of the rough idle/won't start problem. Do we go back to the Fuel Pressure Regulator? If only money were no object, we'd just start replacin' all kinds of parts!......

 

[Rearanger]

When you pull the vac line off the FPR do you get fuel coming out?

 

[jamichau]

No, no fuel comes out of the FPR. None from within the vac line either, but I think you're asking about the FPR itself.

 

[kpwaterman2003]

mine too..

My ranger has the same problem. I have put in a new fuel filter,, pump, both purge valve sensors under the hood, and a tps(throttle posistion sensor). None have fixed it... I'm think for may be the solution so if anybody has fixed it please let me know!!! Thanks!

 

[jamichau]

My son's truck is better, but not fixed. When we installed the Purge Valve, the short hose between it and the front charcoal canister was split. This is about a 5-inch vacuum hose, formed with a 90-degree bend in one end, where it is 3/8-inch diameter, and tapers to 1/8-inch on the other end that connects to the purge valve. Custom. Stealership can no longer get it. We managed to fix the connection with a couple adapters and the lack of power at low RPM has improved, but it still doesn't always want to start. We're going to look for more worn vacuum hoses. Will update soon.....

 

[jamichau]

Alright, turns out the part we replaced 3 days ago was the solenoid. Today we replaced the purge valve. It started and idled OK, but changed RPM slightly (revved up a little) a couple times in a couple minutes. Drove 2 miles to a gas station, put in 10 bucks worth (so you know just how short a time we were there) and the truck took 2 tries to start. Drove back to the shop, shut 'er down, tried to start about 3 to 4 minutes later, wouldn't start. Checked all our vac hoses again, dinked around, cussed and discussed it, tried to fire it after 15 minutes and it started. Seems to be a heat component here. In fact Christopher says that the "won't start" issue is always when it's hot. Any time the engine is cold it starts fine. Also, when it's hot and won't fire with the starter, it will push start. How weird is that?

 

[Rearanger]

"won't start" issue is always when it's hot. Any time the engine is cold it starts fine.

Do an OHM test on the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) when cold (to ambient temp) and when hot. Let me know what it is. If ECT is problem then PCM may be flooding engine when hot.

 

[jamichau]

OK, we'll check it. Please pardon my ignorance, what is PCM? Thanks!

Edit 8/19/12: I think I found what PCM stands for, Powertrain Control Module, correct?

 

[Rearanger]

what is PCM?

Powertrain Control Module, Ford's name for ECU (Electronic Control Unit) or just engine computer.