'95 2.3L. Fuel pouring out top of tank

[auto117584]

Just finished putting "new" used engine in the truck. Took me 2 years due to financial hardship (I'm 64). Engine started right up, but fuel is heavily leaking out of the top and rear of the fuel tank. I can't see what's what up in there. Oh, I'll go back and use my lights and mirror. But in the meantime, anybody got a clue? The fuel pump is inside this plastic tank, my book says.

What could have gone wrong? It sat inside my garage for two years, didn't leak before.

Thanks.

PS With key on, didn't see fuel leaking. With engine running, it leaks.

 

[auto117584]

Filler tube is split where it goes in tank

thanks for reading

 

[Mark_88]

It may be that your return line is not connected to the tank inlet...assuming that you have a fuel injected engine and all...

This may require dropping the tank and checking the fittings...or you can remove the bed...

 

[auto117584]

It may be that your return line is not connected to the tank inlet...assuming that you have a fuel injected engine and all...

This may require dropping the tank and checking the fittings...or you can remove the bed...

I usee a mirror and looked on top of the tank. I could see what I think is the filler tube connected to the tank with a screw clamp, and there is a one inch split in the rubber where it connects to the tank. I was thinking that maybe the gas is pouring out the crack. The crack is about 1/4" wide at the bottom end of the filler tube.

Would the gas leak out there when the engine is running?

 

[Mark_88]

Not sure if it would be forced out of the filler tube, but it is pressurized and if your tank if full enough, then, yes it could.

You would need to drop the tank in that case and replace the filler neck...and you can check the connections to see if they need to be tightened or reconnected...

It's not a big job, but it's a pita because you may need to drain the tank first...that's much easier if you use the pump on board and just run the hose into a container...not sure if you can do this with your setup though...on mine it's easier because it's just one clamp and the pump is mounted in a place that I can get at...

 

[auto117584]

Not sure if it would be forced out of the filler tube, but it is pressurized and if your tank if full enough, then, yes it could.

You would need to drop the tank in that case and replace the filler neck...and you can check the connections to see if they need to be tightened or reconnected...

It's not a big job, but it's a pita because you may need to drain the tank first...that's much easier if you use the pump on board and just run the hose into a container...not sure if you can do this with your setup though...on mine it's easier because it's just one clamp and the pump is mounted in a place that I can get at...

I thought I would siphon the gas out of the tank, unless I can find an external fuel pump. I know there's a pump inside the '95 tank, but don't know, and haven't read, that there's another one on a frame rail. Siphoning is no biggie.

I got a private message saying that it's easier to raise the bed of the truck, but it seems my book would have suggested that. I'm inclined to follow my book's instructions to loosen the straps and lower the tank using a jack.

I'll get back into it in the morning.

 

[Mark_88]

Removing the bed is actually a better way to do it...only problem is the bolts may need to be replaced...and you should have someone to help you remove it because it is awkward (I did mine by myself, but I have a very long reach and can move things most people can't...not bragging, yet...lol)...

With the bed off you can access all the parts much easier than laying on the ground or even standing under a hoisted vehicle...but it really is a matter of what you have available...

If the nuts are rusted they usually break off with enough torque...I tried undoing mine nicely but ended up using a hammer drill, then eventually Johnson bar to break them off...it worked~

 

[modelageek]

the consensus around here is if you are a DIYer...TAKE THE BED OFF

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or by one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool for about $10 is required, 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the http://www.boltdepot.com/metric-hex-bolts.aspx for less than $3 each. I got Hex head bolts. The 2 closest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the strongest grade they had, 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

[modelageek]

one more thought I had is that if you are taking the bed off or the tank out it might be worth the extra 20 minutes to remove the pump and install a new sock/screen on the bottom of the pump...rockauto has them for $6 if you are buying something from them you can add that and the shipping will not be much more....that is what i did I have a sock and I think I will be removing the bed to do my brake lines......with the new hexbolts I should have the bed off in 10 minutes.....I will swap the sock out then.....

*I hate to keep spending your time and money but check the hangers and shackles. they should be rusted on a 95

 

[auto117584]

the consensus around here is if you are a DIYer...TAKE THE BED OFF

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or by one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool for about $10 is required, 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the http://www.boltdepot.com/metric-hex-bolts.aspx for less than $3 each. I got Hex head bolts. The 2 closest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the strongest grade they had, 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

Well, I think you guys are right. When I looked atop the gas tank while lying on my cold garage floor, I saw rust everywhere. There seemed to be a round plate at the top of tank with wires or hoses up there, quite close to the filler hose, and everything was rusted bad. There's a rusted crossmember as well, and it's hanging down from the bed. I think there are three crossmembers over the tank. I also need to install an emergency brake cable to the dashboard, and a release handle. Removing the bed makes sense so I can see what's going on. That mirror gives limited views.

Yes, the three hex-headed sheetmetal screws are 7mm at the filler cap.

What is a torx 55 bolt?? And I've never seen a socket like the Torx 55 socket. Is that a pneumatic socket? I don't have a pneumatic set-up. I'm using all hand tools at this point. I do have a 1/2" breaker bar and sockets, extensions, etc. I can buy a grinder, I suppose.

The pump-in-the-tank can be replaced? Must be that round plate I saw. Might as well replace the filter after I find it.

 

[Mark_88]

Torx bolts have a special 6 sided slot and the torx sockets are available at most hardware/auto supply stores...I would also suggest getting two of them because I snapped one trying to use the impact/hammer drill to get the front two bolts out...they are the tougbest and because one of them is partly hidden by the gas tank the one on the driver side is the hardest...usually...

The plate on the tank is removable to change the pump and filter...I never took mine off but it's not hard to do...just do it outside (well ventillated area) and drain the tank before you remove the plate...

If you haven't already done so...these are pics of torx...http://www.google.ca/images?hl=en&q...tle&resnum=4&ved=0CEYQsAQwAw&biw=1280&bih=860

 

[auto117584]

*I hate to keep spending your time and money but check the hangers and shackles. they should be rusted on a 95

Fortunately, I have a little money, and I'm not exagerating or minimizing. I'm going to look at everything when I get the bed off, will go with the hex bolts, will change the filter and put a sock on it... do you think I ought to replace the pump as well? How much does it cost?

What's wrong with having rusted hangers and shackles if they are still intact? Do they need to be adjustable? Actually, I don't know what hangers and shackles are, but I'll look in the book. Or google it.

Having the bed up will help me repair the emergency brake, which has missing parts. I think almost all of the parts are missing.


ps Mark i've used Torx drive screws. They hold well at the screw head, driving into wood. Way better than Phillips head screws.

 

[auto117584]

one more thought I had is that if you are taking the bed off or the tank out it might be worth the extra 20 minutes to remove the pump and install a new sock/screen on the bottom of the pump...rockauto has them for $6 if you are buying something from them you can add that and the shipping will not be much more....that is what i did I have a sock and I think I will be removing the bed to do my brake lines......with the new hexbolts I should have the bed off in 10 minutes.....I will swap the sock out then.....

*I hate to keep spending your time and money but check the hangers and shackles. they should be rusted on a 95

would you recommend installing a new pump?

what is involved in doing brake lines? Is each line available, with all the bends and fittings? Or do we have to buy stock line, bend it ourselves, use a flange tool or other tool to install the fittings?

I just ordered my new bolts, washers, and nuts for the bed.

 

[Bryan22]

i wouldn't change the pump if you aren't having problems with it. When i changed mine i went to ford, think it was around 200 for the pump. You can get a bosch at autozone for probably less than 100, but why install a pump that's gonna last 2 years for 100 when you can install one that goes 15 years for 200. either way i'd just leave it be if it's not giving you problems.

if the shackles and hangers aren't horribly rusted, you could just sand them and paint them to allude further rust problems. but if they are rusted all the way through in any spots, you should definitely replace them. and, you'll know what they are when you look, they are basically what hold the leave springs to the frame.

 

[Mark_88]

ps Mark i've used Torx drive screws. They hold well at the screw head, driving into wood. Way better than Phillips head screws.

Cool...just thought you were not sure about the bolts...pics always help...

what is involved in doing brake lines? Is each line available, with all the bends and fittings? Or do we have to buy stock line, bend it ourselves, use a flange tool or other tool to install the fittings?

You can buy brake line by the foot in a roll or you can buy individual sections and cut/bend/re-flare them as needed...

You will need a flaring tool...and don't be afraid of this aspect because it's just like any other job you do...take a few practice shots and you'll have it in no time...just buy a piece of line extra for practice...

The biggest problem with the brake lines is that they are not very flexible...you can move most of the joint blocks a bit if needed so this makes it easier...

The longest line is the one from the master to the rear flex line...you can try to do that in one piece (the flex line connection is moveable so it doesn't have to be EXACT)...just make the flare your best one so you don't have to redo the line...

I actually used two pieces for that section...I don't have ABS so mine just went from the Master to the flex line connection...so I made the first section about four feet long from the master to just past the middle body mount...then I used a special double ended connector that is fantastic for patching broken lines or making new ones...then ran the second section to the flex line connection (flex line goes from the rail to the axel)...if you're thinking of doing a lift, now would be a good time to consider making the flex lines longer...

If I had pics of my brake job I'd post them, but I lost everything from my computer a few years ago...