95' 2.3L Crank Sensor Issue?

[SuzaMan1957]

Hi. 95' Ranger 2.3L 2WD 8 plug 190k. I installed a new rebuilt head on my Ranger. The old head was cracked. New plugs, PCV and Wires.I lined everything up. Cam Shaft, Oil Pump and Crank Case and Firing Order were good. Started right up and it idle like crap. Lots of smoke out the tail pipe, it smelled very rich. Timing seems to be off. Maybe hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders. Rechecked the Cam Shaft and Crank Shaft both were in line (I didn't recheck the Oil Pump). I read somewhere that if you remove (which I did) the Crank Case Sensor that it had to go back on in a certain way. Not sure if this is an issue. I did kind of clean up the sensor before putting it back on. It had some loose dirt or something on the sensor tip, just wipe it off. I've replaced the timing belt 18 months ago with no problems and have confidence in the head work. Not sure where to start. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Sure you don't have an ignition wire crossed up anywhere?

 

[SuzaMan1957]

Its too dark to recheck right now. I'll will first thing in the morning. But, I'm pretty sure they are correct.

 

[SuzaMan1957]

I rechecked the firing order. It's correct according to the Haynes manual. As far as the timing, Crank Case Mark (line) was lined up to the TC mark on the timing belt cover, Oil Pump was diamond to diamond and Cam Shaft was triangle to triangle with a diamond at the 12 o'clock position.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Check your book against this:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/FiringOrder.html


Some of the books were published with errors....yours may be one of them.

 

[SuzaMan1957]

Mine looks like the one upper middle with the 2 coils on the left hand side front. Just like the Haynes manual I have.

 

[RonD]

1995 was the first year a CPS(cam position sensor) was added to the 2.3l, 1994 in Calif. engines.

So there is the CKP(crank position) sensor on the crankshaft(inside the timing belt cover), and then the CPS on the oil pump gear(outside the cover, down near oil pan)

The CKP tells the computer the engine is turning so turn on the spark plugs and injectors, it also is used to detect misfires.
A bad CKP will cause a no start.

The CPS is used to time the injectors and spark, a bad CPS(or wiring) will cause poor running but not a no start.
The oil pump gear needs to be correctly timed for the CPS to be correct, you said that was the case.
I would check the CPS for damage and make sure wires are in good shape.
Non-working CPS will turn on the CEL(check engine light).
You can unplug the CPS and see if engine idles better, that would tell you if the CPS was sending out an incorrect signal, or if signal was being misread by ignition module.

With CPS unplugged system/engine runs at default 10deg BTDC timing, you could put a timing light on #1 and see if that was the case, and then plug in the CPS and see what it changes to.

 

[SuzaMan1957]

I checked for the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) its supposed to be mounted on the oil pump assembly behind the inner timing belt cover. Haynes says not all models require a CMP. I checked and I can't 100% verify it's there or not unless I tear the engine back down. I don't see any wires going to that area of the engine. I'm 99% sure I don't have one because I would have encountered it. I did try to run it again. It started and idled like crap again. I let it idle for a minute or so and noticed that every 15 seconds or so the rpms and idle would pick up for a few seconds (almost normal) and then blow more grey rich smelling smoke before putting along on 1 or 2 cylinders again. I definitely will tear it back down to confirm if I have to later. I appreciate all the information I can get before going down that road. Thanks

 

[RonD]

Also don't over look the MAF sensor, it controls the air/fuel mix, you can unplug it and see if engine starts and idles better, it won't drive better.
The MAF can be cleaned:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.html

 

[SuzaMan1957]

Thanks RonD, I did look at the MAF and unplugged it. No difference. A few years back I cleaned it up and it made a difference in the engines performance. I tried switching the vacuum line from the EGR valve to the EGR Vacuum Valve regulator and the idle pick up but lots of smoke. I'm beginning to think the smoke is more oil related than gas. My confidence in the head is waning. A friend is going to come by and take a look this evening.