94' vs 95' clutch/ transmission setup

[jsd3]

Hello everyone. So i'm doing an engine build (will post a build thread later for those interested) on my 1994 ranger. Long story short, the engine going into the truck is a 95' and the transmission is the original from the 94'. What is the major difference between the 94' clutch setup and the 95'? are they interchangeable? i know the crankshafts and flywheels are identical. they're both hydraulic. whats the difference? Thanks

 

[adsm08]

I'd think they would be the same.

 

[jsd3]

I'm hoping so. The only reason I wonder is because all the part numbers are different for 94' vs 95' clutches.

 

[icetherice]

Rock auto brute power clutch specs:

'94: 23-spline 8.875" diameter

'95: 23-spline 9.125" diameter

I think if you're getting a '95 flywheel you should be getting a '95 clutch.

 

[jsd3]

So yea I was looking today and the flywheels are slightly different. They are the same diameter and weight but the mounting holes for the pressure plate are set farther apart on the 95' flywheel. So it seems safe to say that you could run the 95' clutch setup on a 94' and older transmission just have to make sure you also use the 95' flywheel or vise versa. the 95' is probably a better setup though since the clutch is slightly larger, so that's one ill probably go with. thanks for your help.

 

[tomw]

Unless you are doing a 'build', it should not matter which diameter you get. Some of the kits indicate that the diameter supplied may not match the original(on Rock auto at least).
The flywheel surface should be the same level all the way across the face. If it is machined, it will be. The wear area diameter will depend on the friction diameter. Same for the face of the pressure plate. It will have a machined surface that will accommodate either diameter as it must bolt to the same flywheel. If the bolt patterns differ, then the PP holes must be located to match. As long as the PP will bolt up, it should handle either diameter friction.
I would likely not try a mismatch unless I could not get parts.
If you really want performance clutchery, get a Turbo T-bird or SVO Mustang clutch. It will cost a stack of bills in comparison, but will handle about anything you can throw at it. The factory standard 2.3 clutch will not handle the output of a turbo without problems. Had a brother & his friend us my garage to install, and the cheaper(by a lot) clutch/pp/TOB package barely worked. After doing the R&R a second time with the hi-dollar parts, it was good.
tom

 

[jsd3]

Thanks for the info tomw! I ended up going with the 95' later style setup. I've got new flywheel, pressure plate, and disc coming from LUK. Once it comes in i'll have all my parts necessary to balance the rotating assembly. Yea I guess you could say im doing a mild build. it's bored .030 over, ceramic coated pistons, dry film coated skirts, mains and rods, block decked, head mild port and polish, arp studs, MLS gasket with .038 quench, Total seal gapless top ring set file fit and ready to go. Gonna be running NA at first while I learn the MOATEs Quarterhorse program, then very light boost added later, no more than 7-11psi. It's going to be daily driver and im going for MPG and reliability.