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94 ranger issues


5yk0

New Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
So I've got a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 5spd. My problem is that while driving she won't go above about 30mph, when clutch is depressed she acts like the brakes are on and she boils over after maybe two or three miles. Also, she is nearly impossible to push in neutral with two people. Any ideas would be awesome, thank you much!
 
Something in your drivetrain is binding. You're sure your parking brake is off?

I'd look for brake issues first (front and/or rear), then maybe U joints. After that, assuming you're RWD, IDK.
 
Welcome to TRS :)

Reads like you have more than 1 problem.

Leave engine off and transmission in Neutral, can you roll the truck by pushing it?
EDIT: sorry you said you couldn't roll it easily :)

Then jack up each front wheel and see if it spins.
Then jack up each rear wheel and see if it spins(transmission still in Neutral).
If a wheel doesn't spin then that brake is locked.

If no wheels spin the Master Cylinder is locked.

If all wheels spin but truck is hard to roll then could be transmission bearing is bad or rear axle bearing.
On the rear axle differential, about 3/4 of the way up, is a bolt on the cover, remove it, it is the Fill hole for axle oil, use finger or "dip stick" to get some oil out, smell it, you can tell instantly if it smells burnt, if so drain oil by removing cover and have a look inside.

On the drivers side of trans there will be a larger bolt about 1/2 way up the side of trans, remove it, this is the Fill hole to add transmission fluid, some fluid should start to leak out if trans is full.
1994 Ranger manual transmission uses ATF, yes, Automatic Transmission Fluid, in a manual transmission.
Use your finger or a "dip stick" of some sort to get a look at the transmission fluid inside, red is the color of good fluid, black is the color of burnt fluid, it will be black if a bearing is bad.


Engine overheating that fast reads like a blown head gasket.
Cold engine
Remove radiator cap
make sure there is coolant in radiator, if not add some, or some water
Start engine
Watch for coolant bubbling out of rad cap opening
If it does and continues to bubble out then you do have a blown head gasket or cracked head.

Search on this site for Glove Test
It is a free test and it will confirm bad head gasket, even ID where it is blown
 
Last edited:
First off, thank y'all for the inforative replies! She is 2wd, yesterday I lifted each rear wheel and both spun, although I could hear the shoes dragging and the driver's side was difficult to spin. Haven't yet checked on the front. The transmission seems to shift smoothly with no sounds, I also forgot to mention that she was very hard to push even with the clutch depressed. I'll definitely search that test! I really hope the head and gasket are fine, I've been worried my rear end was completely trashed....so far I've found a junkyard axle for $250 if it does turn out to be the diff...but money's tighter than a slipknot on a runaway roadrunner. Lol
 
After testing front wheels then I guess next step would be to remove the drive shaft.

Then push the truck again

Also start engine and run trans through the gears to see if binding is in the transmission.
 
Alrighty, I'll be trying that as soon as I can get back to her. It's hard to do much when she's not where I live and I have no form of transport...

Sent from my ATRIX HD using Tapatalk
 

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