94 Dying while driving

[DeferenceFord]

Hey guys, so I’m running a 2.3, 4 cylinder, manual transmission Ranger and the truck keeps dying on me. Recently I’ve had to replace the ICM since my old one burned out. After changing it out I was given codes for HEGO being too rich. Normally I can just pop the clutch and it’ll get started again but this last time it won’t start back up at all. I need to change the starter as well, but I’ve got the part on order already. Any help/suggestions?

 

[tomw]

There are at least two styles of ICM(TFI modules remote or distributor attached), one for manual transmissions which allows popping the clutch to start, and for automatic transmissions, which does not support push start. You may have the wrong one if this applies.
tom

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

You said "codes", what were the exact codes?

I assume you meant pop the "clutch" to start it up, lol

So has the engine started since the new ICM was installed?

And if so then with the new ICM is when the engine would die while driving, not before installing it?

A dirty fuel filter will cause engine to die after running a bit
Or a failing fuel pump
But these would tend to set Lean Codes not Rich codes, which is why you should post the exact code numbers as they can be misinterpreted since they are in binary(computerese) not english, which doesn't translate well, lol.


You can do 50/50 test, although harder to do without starter motor
Spray gasoline or quick start(ether) into the engine then try to start it
If it starts and dies then you have fuel flow issue
If it doesn't start then Spark issue
50/50


Bump starting with timing belt engines can cause belt to slip, so just a heads up, starter motor doesn't spin the engine that fast on engagement like the instant and fast crank spin of a bump start in 1st gear, try to use 3rd
I doubt that's the no start problem, just a heads up

 

[tomw]

Bump start best done in 4th or direct gear. The reduction gears in the power path are easier to damage with the reduction ratio being turned on its head. Fourth or top gear are 'direct', which gives the best torque from the wheels towards the engine, well actually not the best, but you have a better chance of getting the engine to spin 20 rpm than you do of having it spin 30, 50, 80 which 3, 2 and 1 would try to do. (numbers pulled from thin air, but direct will try the 'least' amount of spin per wheel turn)
My explanation may be confusing, but it works best given the amount of traction and inertia available. I have started my truck when I left the lights on in a parking lot by myself, taking advantage of a slight slope and popping the clutch in 4th. It was a last resort as I was alone, 40 miles from home on the other side of the bay. Just enough battery left I guess to run the ICM and coil, and me as the 'starter'.
tom

 

[DeferenceFord]

The codes I got today when I ran it again were;
173
222
338

Any help there?