94 3.0 issues

[letsgorace48@aol.com]

I have a 94 ranger 3.0

It 's the one with a distbutor

It wont Start

The kid i bought it from said it was timing or a sensor but he did not know.

It has 140 psi in the cylinders and has spark

It wont backfire or do anything just sit there and crank.

I noticed that the fuel pump wasnt turning on

I spayed ether in the throttle body to get it to do something but it wont go anything

I thought they maybe messed up when they put plug wires on so i mixed them up and still no backfire or anything

Can anybody help me here

 

[fleck]

I had a problem with my truck shutting down randomly and refusing to start up. Needless to say (it's all in my sig) I did just about everything possible before finding out that the fuel pump relay was the main culprit (before when it had shut down it shut down in busy places and I couldn't hear the fuel pump failing to engage). Now you say that spraying the intake didn't get it to turn on (this happened to my truck also), well if you've cranked it a bunch already the battery could be a little low. I had that problem with a dead battery, it would act fine most of the time but when my truck died, I cranked it a few times and then it would run out of juice, so remember that these trucks can seem like they have enough power from the battery but actually don't have enough to do more than crank, something else to check out. If the truck has full power, fuel and the spark is fine and only cranks over then you're lookin at possibly the cam position sensor or the computer itself.

 

[Bob Ayers]

I had a problem with my truck shutting down randomly and refusing to start up. Needless to say (it's all in my sig) I did just about everything possible before finding out that the fuel pump relay was the main culprit (before when it had shut down it shut down in busy places and I couldn't hear the fuel pump failing to engage). Now you say that spraying the intake didn't get it to turn on (this happened to my truck also), well if you've cranked it a bunch already the battery could be a little low. I had that problem with a dead battery, it would act fine most of the time but when my truck died, I cranked it a few times and then it would run out of juice, so remember that these trucks can seem like they have enough power from the battery but actually don't have enough to do more than crank, something else to check out. If the truck has full power, fuel and the spark is fine and only cranks over then you're lookin at possibly the cam position sensor or the computer itself.

He has a distributer, so he doesn't have a cam position sensor.

First thing to do is get the fuel pump to run. Check fuses, the fuel pump relay, and inertia switch first.

 

[fleck]

Ah, so I don't have a cam position sensor either, eh? That's good to know.

I forgot to mention the inertia switch too.

 

[letsgorace48@aol.com]

Where is the interia switch on rangers

 

[letsgorace48@aol.com]

Also how do you know if a relay is bad? The Battery has a charger on boost mode when i was cranking it over. I just cant figure it out, It could be timing but then it doesnt backfire even when the spark plug wires are mixed up or reversed.

 

[Bob Ayers]

The inertia switch is on the passenger side below the dash under the carpet next to the transmission hump.


If there is no fuel, you won't get a backfire.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

First of all, make sure that your plug wires are not all "mixed up" or reversed. They need to be in their proper home. Read your manual.

Secondly, your fuel pump should be addressed.

Eliminate all that you know is wrong and take it from there, otherwise you will chase wild geese all day and get no where slowly.

 

[letsgorace48@aol.com]

Ok so i pulled that motor. I have another 3.0 that bolt rigth in. The problem is that the engine, that is also out a 94, Is the distributorless style engine. Is it hard to covert overto that design. What will i need from the other 94 to make it work. Computer, ICM?

 

[fleck]

From what I understand the distributorless engines only showed up in 95+.

And also from what I understand, you'd have to swap over the computer/harness.

No pro here just what I think I read before on the forums.

 

[rurouni20xx]

95 up is eec5 edis engines. 94 under is still eec4 distributor style engine.

 

[letsgorace48@aol.com]

there both 94's? I have the registration for the distributor less engine it says 94. Ran the vin and its a 94. Could it be late 94 maybe. The trannys arnt the saem anyway. I dont know why but in the distrubuor engine the tranny is bigger.

 

[captping]

had same problem set plug wires to book spec tdc hole 9 yards firing order 142536 would not due anything turned cap 180 fired right up

 

[betomonroy]

And if any of the here said before doesn't work... Check the ignition switch. It may be faulty. It may be triggering the ignition but may (may) not be triggering the electronics as well as the ecm.

 

[wanebell]

letsgo,

If the VIN plate of a vehicle translates to a 94 model, that only asures you that the VIN plate, and probably the IP that it's attached to, are 94 vintage. The registration papers reflect the VIN on the plate, that's all. Unless VIN number on the engine matches the number on the plate, you don't know for sure the motor model year. That said, are you sure that your replacement motor is a 3.0? IIRC, the 94 model 4.0 liter engines were distributorless. If it is indeed a 3.0 liter, then it is either not the orginal engine or someone changed the ignition system on this truck. That would be an odd thing to do, because it requires not only the coil packs, but the PCM and wiring harness to be changed as well. A lot of cash/effort for little to no advantage.

If it is in fact a 4.0 liter engine, your orginal transmission will not work, as the 3.0 liter engines have a unique bell housing bolt hole pattern. You'll have to install the donor transmission as well as the engine, along with the wiring harnesses and PCM.

But the biggest question I have is: why did you pull the old motor? Because the fuel pump wouldn't run?