93 Ranger complete Detailed 5.0L Swap.

[DCPerformance]

I am the owner of DC Performance here in Maryland. I have been asked by a customer to do a 5.0L swap on his 93 2wd regular cab splash. The original engine was a stock 4.0L 5 speed trans with well over 100K on it. I will be doing as much documentation and pics as possible, so this build will help others with their swaps. I specialize in 87-93 Foxbody mustangs here at my shop so I am not new to the 5.0L, or the electrical systems.
We are starting off with a complete 5.0L engine that I sold to the customer from a car I built about 4 years ago. I have decided to update it so the motor will not work for my plans. The motor consists of a complete stock 93 shortblock that was freshened up when it was built along with a new set of Edelbrock Performer heads, a Motorsport E303 cam, Crane 1.6 roller rockers, Cobra intake, BBK 65mm throttlebody, C&L 73mm mass air meter and 24lbs injectors. This motor made close to 300hp to the tires with a stock 5 speed.
I have already started the build process so Im going to skip the removal of the old 4.0L and get right to the installation of the 302.
The customer supplied us with the bulk of the parts needed which include:
Brand new Tremec TKO mid shift trans built by Bob Hanlon at Hanlon Motorsports.
Motorsport Flywheel
Centerforce clutch
New Hydraulic throw out cylinder
87-95 Convertible motor mounts
Battery relocation kit
190 Lph intank fuel pump

I have already learned that the motor mounts are not a drop in deal, i knew it was said that they have to be swapped side to side but found the passenger side motor mount is a pain to get to with the I beam suspension. The bracket that holds the I beam in place makes it very difficult to get to the nut to remove the old motor mount and install the new one. I so far found out that the passenger side mount cant be installed on the engine but the driverside has to be installed to the frame first in order to set the motor in unless the steering box is removed.
We plan on keeping the A/C and power steering on this build. I thought I may be able to use the stock 5 liter stuff but it looks like there is very little space between the Harmonic balancer and the A/C condenser so at this point this is where my problems start. I believe my next project is to install the trans to help locate the motor in the correct location as far as front to back.
I will post up some pics tomorrow after installing the trans and getting a idea on how much room I have.
Please feel free to chime in with questions or even info if interested.

Let the fun Begin!!!!!!!!

 

[Scott B.]

I am in the middle of same swap.

I am putting a '94 5.0 in my '93 4WD. I am wiring the engine as a '93, keeping OBD I.

Feel free to track my progress in my build thread on ExplorerForum - link. It starts on page 12, post 223.

Post lots of pictures!

 

[DCPerformance]

Still in the mockup phase right now. Got the motor and trans in yesterday. I wasnt happy with the position of the motor (to far forward) So im in the process of moving it back some so theres plenty of room for the accessories and radiator. Pics will be up soon.
Thanks

 

[shane96ranger]

Welcome to TRS. I'll be watching your build as you go for sure!

I don't know if you've had a chance to look at user Teddyzee's truck, but I personally think it's the best looking 5.0 swap I've seen anywhere. Here's his truck:

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112256

BTW, an option you may want to look at is using an Explorer front accessory drive. That can help with your clearance issues.



EDIT: Just an FYI ----- We REALLY like pictures on here

 

[Tominator]

Still in the mockup phase right now. Got the motor and trans in yesterday. I wasnt happy with the position of the motor (to far forward) So im in the process of moving it back some so theres plenty of room for the accessories and radiator. Pics will be up soon.
Thanks

I had to push in the firewall at the point the throttle pedal lever was attached to move my motor back far enough.

 

[Teddyzee]

I have already learned that the motor mounts are not a drop in deal, i knew it was said that they have to be swapped side to side but found the passenger side motor mount is a pain to get to with the I beam suspension. The bracket that holds the I beam in place makes it very difficult to get to the nut to remove the old motor mount and install the new one. I so far found out that the passenger side mount cant be installed on the engine but the driverside has to be installed to the frame first in order to set the motor in unless the steering box is removed.
We plan on keeping the A/C and power steering on this build. I thought I may be able to use the stock 5 liter stuff but it looks like there is very little space between the Harmonic balancer and the A/C condenser so at this point this is where my problems start. I believe my next project is to install the trans to help locate the motor in the correct location as far as front to back.

I did not swap my mounts side to side (Fox body vert/sn95 mounts), and used my driveshaft to position the engine.
Those bolts for the mount underneath are such a pain that I took pictures of the joy

To keep AC, and leave the condensor and rad in the stock locations, I don't see any way around using either Explorer front accessories, or sn95 Mustang parts.

 

[Tominator]

I moved the condenser to the front of the radiator.

Getting a fan that moves enough air to cool a V8 into the space will still be a problem if you plan on any performance mods using the Fox front dress.

As Ted said, if you start the project with the SN95 Mustang front dress you've already solved a lot of potential problems.

My next mod is installing an aluminum radiator in front of the radiator support and keeping the AC. This will leave the current area the radiator occupies open for a Taurus fan. You might consider this option if you are intent on using the Fox front dress.

 

[baddad457]

If he had taken the time to read thru the "sticky threads" he would have learned all this before undertaking this. We've all been thru the same stuff, and it's well documented in the stickys. So don't feel like you're going to teach us anything new. You need to use the 88-93 T-Bird/Cougar or SN 95 FEAD (same parts) to clear the A/C or use the Explorer/Mountaineer FEAD, you'll probably have to push the radiator up inside the core support too, to gain much needed room (again, well documented in the stickys) The pass side mount access ? Been there-done that too. Drop the axle end blocking your way, install the mount and add two extra 3/8 bolts thru the X-member. Then make 4 7/16"NC studs 2 inches long and use these instead of the mount bolts in the block, it's far easier to go this route instead of laying on your back trying to line up the mount and block holes to get the mount bolts started. When I pulled the engine later, I left the mounts bolted in place. Engine and trans need to go in together, centered between the fenders (not the frame as it's not centered under the body) and aim the trans output shaft at the rear pinion. Then locate the mounts as necessary.

 

[Scott B.]

Not to hijack...

I am using the SN95 FEAD, and the rear/bottom mount of the A/C compressor interferes with the frame rail. Anyone else have this problem?

I haven't decided if I will notch the frame or modify the compressor.

 

[DCPerformance]

If he had taken the time to read thru the "sticky threads" he would have learned all this before undertaking this. We've all been thru the same stuff, and it's well documented in the stickys. So don't feel like you're going to teach us anything new. You need to use the 88-93 T-Bird/Cougar or SN 95 FEAD (same parts) to clear the A/C or use the Explorer/Mountaineer FEAD, you'll probably have to push the radiator up inside the core support too, to gain much needed room (again, well documented in the stickys) The pass side mount access ? Been there-done that too. Drop the axle end blocking your way, install the mount and add two extra 3/8 bolts thru the X-member. Then make 4 7/16"NC studs 2 inches long and use these instead of the mount bolts in the block, it's far easier to go this route instead of laying on your back trying to line up the mount and block holes to get the mount bolts started. When I pulled the engine later, I left the mounts bolted in place. Engine and trans need to go in together, centered between the fenders (not the frame as it's not centered under the body) and aim the trans output shaft at the rear pinion. Then locate the mounts as necessary.

I did do some research and really didnt find a direct answer into using exact stuff. That was the point to starting this thread. Opinions are appreciated, not always wanted.LOL

 

[DCPerformance]

So i did get some work done today. Finally got the motor sat in on the mounts and tranny crossmember. I found I dont care for the motor mounts cause the motor sits to high in the front. I plan on using them and just modify them to lower the engine instead of building new ones. Since this will be a daily driver for my customer I dont want to use solid mounts. I did get all the sn95 accessories today so all looks good there. I did however not figure on having to replace the 93 cobra intakes that are originally on the engine. I was able to come up with a 94 cobra intake for trade on mine so looks like I should be ok. I will know more tomorrow when I actually get it. Started modify the engine harness tonight. Removed all the tape and loom from the original harness. Thats one nasty job. My plan is to incorporate the mustang harness into the original so it looks as clean as possible. Once I pull the motor back out this time I plan on getting some pics for the build and some info on what was done and how. Hopefully by this weekend I will have everything mocked up and begin the final clean up of all the parts and engine.

 

[RangerSVT]

Check out my build, it offers another alternative to the mustang mounts. Everything is in the first post...

SVT

 

[DCPerformance]

Just wanted to bring this thread back from the dead, the project got put on hold for a while and is now back on track, didnt get to spend the time to document everything the way I had wished but I will on the next. I did get the truck running today, fired right up and idled. Was very happy with that considering I made the complete harness, I will snap some pics the next day or two and post up. I have to say it turned out realy well. I cant wait to do the next one which will be for my self and should be easier and well thought out before jumping right in. Thanks for looking!!

 

[bobbywalter]

i have made many harnesses...working with old shit sux. i pretty much quit because of that last year when i lost my source for obd1 pins and sockets. so i am familiar with what a pia old shit is.


pretty much prefer to make the front clip removable with the ttb/tib chassis and open the core support up. guy dont want that...i wont work on it. pulling the i beams off makes fitting cake when the core is also off. usually make the clip removable long before the swap....takes a day to clean it up etc but well worth it. makes putting the engine in pathetically easy after you do a few.

re-bushing and re-ball jointing the beams if they need it is harder then fitting the engine

the sla is pretty much a bolt in using the explorer stuff. the pats can be a trainwreck though.

just some options/ideas to consider before the next one if its a ttb/tib chassis...

 

[gsp]

Where are all the the pics of this "detailed swap"?