'93 leaf spring bushing is just a bit too loose

[ccaissie]

I see an earlier 2019 thread where the smaller rear bushing was way too loose in the front spring eye, but this is the correct bushing...Here, the spring opening is just too rusted/worn and after grinding the rust out, the hole is like .020" too big.

Slips in & out with no resistance.

Best fix? JAM some shim stock in there? JB Weld? (I know JB softens with heat so a future removal is easy...) .
Shim AND JB Weld?

My plan is to roughen up the outside shell of the new bushing and JB Weld it in with a shim driven in for good measure. Worst case, it fails and rattles, and because I have a new hanger and bolt, a removal would be MUCH easier than the rusty nightmare I had to get this thing apart.

I could run a bead of weld inside the spring, then grind until it needs to be driven in.....nah. That's plan B 2 in 2028.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… a few things… I’ve seen rust build up where the end of the spring is curled around and actually makes the eye larger than it should be. If you chisel the rust out, the eye will spring back to factory size.

Do NOT weld on springs unless you are capable of properly heat treating them after. It makes them brittle.

 

[ccaissie]

No Weld...I hear that...deep hgh heat penetration creates a HAZ- heat affected zone, and the unregulated rate of cooling at that point changes the temper. When I was doing truck front ends I wanted to warm them to get the kingpins out, but heat is contraindicated on front end components. The Boss said to just keep wailing on them if it takes all day.... sometimes swinging the sledge until I saw stars....

If I did build a weld it would be on the tail end of the curl, but I think Epoxy and some shim stock has it's place for trial...better surrounding contact, and the roughened surface gives it good purchase. If it fails I'll be sure to report it here.

JB Weld is surprisingly useful. I repaired the front cover on a D9 Cat engine at Dietrich Camp in 1974.