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'93 ignition switch


Curious Hound

Formerly EricBphoto
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Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
18,350
Age
61
City
Wellford, SC
State - Country
SC - USA
Other
2002 F250, 2022 KLR 650
Vehicle Year
1993
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Hey, Y'all. something is wearing out related to my ignition switch. I can now pull the key out in 2 positions. I thought the positions were off and lock. I can click the switch back and forth between those positions without the key. In one position, the door ajar bell still chimes, so some things still have power. That has been my clue to jiggle it back to the right position before leaving the truck. But, I must have forgotten a few days ago and the battery went dead before I wanted to drive the truck again.

Anyway, I haven't examined it mechanically yet. If I replace the cylinder, should that take care of making sure it only releases the key in the right position? Or is there something else mechanical that I should adjust or replace? My current plan, if Y'all confirm its validity, is to replace the cylinder and the electrical switch (in case the switch is worn also. It can't cost too much.). Does that make sense or am I missing something?
 
My 94 has the same problem the whole lock spins. But it's not a high priority since the doors do lock
 
Your key may simply be worn down enough to allow it to come out. My old '96 did that - the key eventually got so sloppy that it could be pulled out in any position. Kinda handy, actually, I could start the truck, pull the key and lock the doors, and let it warm up in the morning.

Could be the lock cylinder too, though. I doubt the ignition switch itself is the issue as it's further down the column and activated by a rod that moves with the lock cylinder. I have had quite a few switches come apart and cause no crank issues because of how the metal and plastic parts are crimped together.
 
Your key may simply be worn down enough to allow it to come out. QUOTE]

A friend has a 88 Mazda pick-up, his old worn out key would work in my 83 ranger, but my Ranger key wouldn't start has Mazda.
 
Your key is worn and your tumblers are sticking.

I'd just get a whole new set. If you are attached to your original keys there is a guy on ebay who can build a lock cylinder for you from a good pic of the key.
 
I'll get a new cylinder keys and probably use the keys with the basic cut that comes on them. It's not a big issue. I just want to reduce how often I leave the switch in the wrong position and run the battery down. I hate dead batteries. :annoyed: Carrying separate ignition and door keys isn't a problem. I think I had vehicles in the past that came from the factory that way. My Mercedes originally had 3 different keys with it - a Master, a general use key and a valet key.

I thought about just bypassing it with switches and a pushbutton. But I don't have the time for that right now.
 
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If you don't care about original keys, then the aftermarket tumblers are dirt cheap. Maybe $20? It's been a few years since the last one I replaced.
 
Change the cylinder before it messes up and you have to drill it out. They are cheap and easy to do.
 
Parts are on order.

Thanks.:beer:
 

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