93 crank no start

[93ranger1993]

I need help. I was driving my 93 ranger yesterday and it died on the road. Went under the hood and found that the ignition coil bolts broke off and the coil pack was just bouncing around. I got it home and replaced the bolts. Still nothing. Cranks but doesn’t start. Replaced the coil pack today and the truck still won’t start. It has good fuel pressure and I don’t know where to go from here. Going to bring my multimeter home tomorrow and go into further diag. Any suggestions on where I should start or common problems I’m not thinking of.
Thanks

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

1993 4.0l Ranger

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, this means the computer has powered up, no CEL = no start
Try to start engine, CEL should go OFF as soon as starter motor starts to spin the engine, this means there is a good timing signal from crank sensor so spark and fuel should start, if CEL stays on then No Timing Signal and no start

50/50 test
Spray fuel into the intake and try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then spark is OK, fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't fire or start then spark is the issue

This is just an easy and for sure way to confirm spark(timing) or fuel issue on ANY gasoline engine

Fuel pressure doesn't mean fuel IN the engine
Spark testers don't always work well with Waste Spark systems


If no CEL key on, check PCM Relay, and EEC Fuse, both shown on diagram below

If CEL stays on when cranking engine then check Crank sensor, it is on lower front of engine behind crank pulley, passenger side


1993 4.0l uses an EDIS-6 spark module, never read of one failing on its own, gets its 12volts from ignition switch, on the same wire as coil pack, so test the Red wire on the 4 wire connector on coil pack to see if it has 12v with key on

 

[93ranger1993]

Thanks for the help I just went down and quick tested the cel. It went off as soon as I started cranking. I’ll be testing the powers and grounds tomorrow. I’ll keep you updated.

 

[93ranger1993]

I got my meter out today and looked at the truck. I had battery voltage on the red wire on the 4 wire connector and then I sprayed starter fluid into the intake. Truck still won’t start

 

[93ranger1993]

Welcome to TRS

1993 4.0l Ranger

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, this means the computer has powered up, no CEL = no start
Try to start engine, CEL should go OFF as soon as starter motor starts to spin the engine, this means there is a good timing signal from crank sensor so spark and fuel should start, if CEL stays on then No Timing Signal and no start

50/50 test
Spray fuel into the intake and try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then spark is OK, fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't fire or start then spark is the issue

This is just an easy and for sure way to confirm spark(timing) or fuel issue on ANY gasoline engine

Fuel pressure doesn't mean fuel IN the engine
Spark testers don't always work well with Waste Spark systems


If no CEL key on, check PCM Relay, and EEC Fuse, both shown on diagram below

If CEL stays on when cranking engine then check Crank sensor, it is on lower front of engine behind crank pulley, passenger side


1993 4.0l uses an EDIS-6 spark module, never read of one failing on its own, gets its 12volts from ignition switch, on the same wire as coil pack, so test the Red wire on the 4 wire connector on coil pack to see if it has 12v with key on

I have 12v on the red wire and I tried starting fluid still nothing

 

[RonD]

Thats a puzzler

If CEL goes off while cranking then crank sensor is working and EDIS-6 is sending that timing pulse to computer
So it should be grounding and ungrounding the coil pack

Unplug the 4 wire connector on coil pack
Key on
From red wire(which is 12v) test each other wire for voltage should see 12v as each of the other 3 wires should be grounded by EDIS-6 module
If possible have someone crank engine over while meter hooked to red wire and any other wire, voltage should pulse as EDIS-6 ungrounds that wire, test light is actually better for this

EDIS-6 module is on the rad support can be on engine side or front side, my 1994 has it on the front drivers side, so to see it you have to look from underneath

Look like this: https://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/media/edis6-800.png

If you can reach it unplug its connector and plug it back in, this cleans the contacts, see if it has spark now

 

[93ranger1993]

i just said screw it a minute ago and sprayed dang near the whole can of starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a minute. I tried again and it fired again. I don’t think that I sprayed enough in the first time. Just checked for fuel pressure again and got nothing. I went back to the sending unit and found the connector like this. I think I am going to need a new connector and to rewire this

 

[93ranger1993]

Do you know what voltage I should have at this connector

 

[RonD]

4 wires
Yellow/white wire is for fuel level sender, about 5volts
Black/yellow is the ground for sender, 0 ohms to frame

Pink/black is 12v for fuel pump
Black is ground for fuel pump, 0 ohms to frame

Problem in testing voltage for fuel pump(pink/black wire) is that it is only there for 2 seconds when key is turned on, then its off until engine RPMs exceed 400, cranking speed is 200rpms

If you can hook up voltmeter so you can see it from the cab and then turn key on and off a few times you should see the 12volts come on and go off

Other way is to jumper the OBD1 connector in engine bay, should be next to the Fuse Box, has EEC on cover
Look here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/eec-iv_testing2.gif

That's what OBD1 connector looks like
Fuel pump slot is labelled in drawing
If you GROUND that slot it will by-pass computer control of fuel pump relay
So jumper wire from that slot to battery negative or any ground
Turn on key
Pink/black wire should have 12volt full time, well as long as key is on