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93 coil spring bolt


alexp11

09/2014 MTOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
Joined
Jul 20, 2013
Messages
68
Age
31
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Trying to install dream beams on my 93. Taking off the old stuff right now. I don't have any wrenches this large, but it's pretty rusted anyway. I'm sure it's gonna strip or break. Anyone know what bolt I need to replace it? Would TSC have something this size? Thanks guys.
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Wire brush the loose stuff off the threads and hit it penetrating oil such as PB Blaster. Then figure out what wrenches you need. May as well get them, you will need them for the install anyway. I would have no trouble re-using that bolt if I could get it off in one piece.
 
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after a lot of heat and strain this is what I found. I did not know there was another nut under the spring but I think it's safe to say this isn't coming out.
 
Ok , Next , I would split the nut with a hammer and a cold chisel. If you split the nut almost through. Then angle the chisel and peel the the nut off the bolt. I have a growing collection of hardware that was destroyed in order to fix the Rat. :D
 
Used a grinder to cut it off. Top of the radius arm is free but the bolt is still seized. Here where it's at now.
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bolt underneath still looks the same
 
It's not a nut you cut off, it's welded to the stud so you can put the stud into the beam. You said you have new beams so you'll be fine. It's the same thread all the way, so match the cut-off with a new one. Might have to get a stud, put a nut on it, and weld the nut in place, then grind the weld down for clearance.
 
It's a special bolt not a nut.If you heat the base with a propane torch it comes out better it has Lock Tight on it.A 11/8 wrench fits it.
 
It's a pretty tough bolt. If it's special I imagine its an expensive dealer part. Whats typically used as a cheap replacement? Need the whole thing from the bottom of the ibeam into the spring.
 
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The "stud-bolt" [my term] is locktighted in from the factory. I was able to remove mine by using a 4 foot piece of pipe over a 1/2" breaker bar and a deep 1 1/8" socket. Not all stud-bolts are the same size and some are different size and thread from one end to the other. Heat would help loosen the locktight. Get new stud-bolts from the junkyard if they are unavailable elsewhere or too expensive.
Good luck,

Richard
 
Both sides are apart now. Driver side was in much better shape and much easier. I did notice a large flat washer on top of the radius arm on the driver side I don't remember seeing in the passenger side. Did both sides have one? Are/is they/it needed with Djm beams?
 
Only bolts I've been able to find are grade 5 full thread. Opinions?
 
Also does someone have the torque specs for all front end bolts? Beams, springs sway bar and links. Calipers caliper brackets. Etc
 
Called lmc truck about part #40-0985. The lady said it was a 4wd part. So I asked for the 2wd variant. She asked someone and said drove doesn't matter. Now I know my bolts pass through the entire beam. From what I've read doesn't the 4wd use two separate fasteners due to the axle in the middle?
 

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