93 bogging hesitation

[that1guy93]

Alright, 2nd post ever guys so ill do my best.

Just replaced my lower intake gasket because of a coolant leak, I have recent plugs (few months ago) ,just fixed a ton of vacuum leaks (idles perfect now!), alternator is pretty fresh, cleaned my throttle bodyand MAF.

Now, here's the scoop, me and my dad finished putting the truck together last night and he didn't connect the plug wires in correctly on the drivers side TWICE first time ran rough and we knew immediately what was up, my dad said he knew what he did and insisted he fixed it, second try I backed it out of the driveway, then right back in. fixed it, idled and ran great for about 1 mile before I noticed it was popping a little, was kinda boggy, so I chocked it up to the fact it sat for 3 weeks so I decided to open her up in a back street and redline 1st into second and clear her out a little. I let the clutch out nice and easy to get her going then I punched it from 1300-2300 or so it was slow as a dog, popping a little and bogging like it wasn't burning the fuel it was being given then after that it would light right up and suddenly my stock geared truck on 35's took off like a 2 stroke dirt bike coming onto the powerband! I'm thinking I could have fouled a plug when the wires were mixed up or the coil pack could have gone bad, someone told me that could be the issue.

looking for some input on this! Thanks in advance!

 

[that1guy93]

When I said popping I mean like sputtering, not like a back fire, just like a cylinder wasn't firing or something. Hard to explain over typing so if I may, imagine me saying this. It sounds something like "baaaaaa ba ba ba ba" then a nice healthy "BAAAAAAAA" till I shift.
Hope that helps, I like using sound effects. Lol

 

[RonD]

Could be you got some condensation in the tank and sitting around allows the water to sink to the bottom so that's what the fuel pump sucks in when first started.

But idle would probably be effected.

Check the fuel regulators vacuum line, on the fuel rail.
Remove it and see if it smells like gas, if regulators diaphragm is leaking raw fuel is sucked into the intake, lower RPM would flood, higher would be fine.

TPS(throttle position sensor) tells the computer how long to open the injectors, although these usually get dead spots, not the whole lower RPM range.

There are 3 coils in the "pack", 2 spark plugs on each they can be tested with an OHM meter.

Grounds are very important when electronics are used to control engines, never use teflon tape on sensors, if you do then never use it on the lower threads, allow the sensor to get a good ground.

 

[that1guy93]

Thanks much, how would you go about checking the coil pack ? I'll check the diaphragm when I go out for my lunch break, I drove the truck to work and it runs pretty good for a couple mins but then I have the problem I stated above. I also cleared the computer that didn't help. Ill update you once I check the diaphragm.

 

[RonD]

Good video here for checking a Ford coil.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1zhgsnyZWw

If engine runs better cold then starts to run bad after warming up it could be the ECT sensor, this should cause the check engine light to come on, but not always.
The ECT sensor can also be checked with an OHM meter.
This is a two-wire sensor used to check coolant temp, it is usually located near the one-wire temp sender for the dash board temp gauge, near the t-stat housing.
This page has the OHM values for that sensor:
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford_P0117_P0118_4.0L/ford_temperature_sensor_1.php

The ECT is the "choke" for a fuel injected engine, it causes the computer to run the engine rich when engine is cold then leaner once engine has warmed up, if this sensor is always telling the computer that the engine is cold then once warmed up engine will run too rich, and since this sensor also controls "closed" and "Open" Loop for the computer a code is not always set.

 

[that1guy93]

That sounds EXACTLY like what happens! Im going to check that once Im out of school today! Sounds like a much less expensive fix than the previous ones.

 

[that1guy93]

Well, i replaced the ECT. The little one with one wire. A whole 9$ later and she runs about 75% better! It still burbles and sputters while taking off but once up to speed it cruises nicely and while idling when warm it no longer reeks like gas. BUT I do still have an issue, it still sputters while taking off, like bearly any power and it does feel a tad sluggish. still need to check the TPS and test the coil pack and doing O_2 sensors wouldent be a bad idea I don't think.
Thanks for the help! I'm deffinatly getting somewhere...

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Roll a set of plugs in it before you go any further.

There's a 95% chance they are fuel-fouled.