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'92 ranger 3.0 M5OD replacement... tips/tools?


chambiec1

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
5
City
Towanda, PA
Vehicle Year
'92
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys.

I am about to tackle replacing the tranny in my '92 ranger tomorrow... it's a 3.0 5-speed 2WD... and tips or tricks to make it go as smoothly as possible? A local garage told my father I needed some sort of special tool to do it properly... is this true?

Any and all help is appreciated.

-Casey
 
Some tips that may be helpful...

-Either get the clutch line quick release tool from an autoparts store or fight with two tiny screw drivers to release the coupling to the slave cylinder.

-While you've got it out, replace the clutch and clutch slave cylinder. Use this video to help you bleed it easier... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc It does alot better job than I can on helping to bleed.

-Resurface that flywheel and replace the pilot bearing. Might as well do it while it's out and your replacing the clutch. Good insurance right there along with the new clutch and slave cyl. Newer models use External Torx bolts holding the flywheel to the crank. I don't know about your vintege, but it's something to look out for.

-I found it easier to remove the trans inspection cover from the inside of the truck. Made for easy fast removal of the trans without hanging up on the sheet metal cover with the shifter stub. Remove that shifter too.


Good luck and stay safe.
 
By psychologically prepared to do one of three things to get the trans out.

a)Remove the Engine y-pipe.
b)Remove the radius arm crossmember
(cutting the rivets and removing the bolts so it droops from the frame
after you disconnect the shocks is sufficient)
c)loosen the drivers side body mount bolts (all three) and REMOVE the passenger side body mount bolts to allow the body to be jacked off the frame by 4" or so

some people manage to get the trans off the engine and out of the chassis
without doing any of thoise things, but you may not be so fortunate.

I have a 1-14" body lift AND a dropped radius arm bracket and I still
need to remove my Y-pipe to get y trans down, but I have a 4.0 and
the 4.0 bellhousing is a bit fatter than yours.

AD
 
Well, I managed to get the tranny out in about 3 hours or so.. working at a slower pace as to not make any mistakes. Didn't have to remove the Y pipe or any other means of clearance, just a lot of wiggling and grunting. Pounded the body seam back a bit with a hammer and the new one slid in effortlessly. Got everything buttoned up and the tranny topped off, dropped the truck to the ground only to find the clutch pedal having no pressure and heard a leak. :icon_confused:

Somehow the fitting where the hydro line comes into the slave cylinder had become cracked and dislodged and was causing it to leak. Soo... needless to say the tranny came back out and is now waiting on a pallet until I can get a new one tomorrow. :annoyed:

Will update more on this tomorrow..
 
Got the new slave this morning. Had the tranny in and buttoned up in less that an hour, with a lot of bullshittin' in between... works effortlessly and I am happier than hell with it.
 

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