92(maybe) 4x4 manual, spark, ok computer, no start, bad injectors?


Joined
Feb 7, 2026
Messages
2
Points
1
City
Careywood
State - Country
ID - USA
Vehicle Year
1992
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
none
Total Drop
none
Tire Size
stock
Okay I did a bad thing and bought a non running swap vehicle that the PO bought and couldn't get running, so my vehicle history might as well have been made by Hollywood. No idea what or year this harness and engine came from. Assuming 92 4.0 4x4 manual ranger until I know otherwise, because it's 92 4x4.

The short:
Disconnected the inertia switch, and while cranking fuel pressure(40ish psi) does NOT drop indicating, fuel issue. Noid light lights showing computer is ok and telling injectors to fire. So my diagnostic brain is telling me I have 6 completely plugged injectors, but previous to this I would have said that would have been just about impossible. So now I question how? and do I really need $200-$300 refurbed injectors or can I clean them? Did someone diesel this thing? Gallon of marvel mystery oil?

The Long:
I bought this truck a year or two ago, and this winter I decided to start working on it, PO worked on it and cleaned out the tank, replaced pump and I think filter. He decided it was a fueling issue, but gave up and sold it pretty cheap. So now my diagnostic journey begins: Test for spark is good. Managed a start on starting fluid, but immediately dies out after 2-4 revs, but everything sounded healthy and even for the about 10-20 combustion events that happen. Any throttle ends in engine stall immediately. WOT + starting fluid resulted in a 2 foot long shotgun blast removing the knuckle hair from the person adding starting fluid. Move on to fuel system, pressure goes to and stays at 45 PSI, conclude pressure is good, remove tester because I'm an idiot and relief valve broke, end of elcheapo EFI pressure tester. Decided it was ecu so removed and inspected, looks like it was stored in a seasonal river. Go online to see if a refub part exists, ECU code is for an automatic, and manual computers are almost unobtainable, but I found one on fleabay hopefully it's good. Open auto computer and find the board actually looked decent, no leaky caps, remove as much powered alum as I could, clean with electronics cleaner reassemble, stick back in, and no change. Bought a noid light from darth vad... I mean amazon because next day shipping. Noid light lights showing ECU is trying. New elcheapo EFI pressure tester goes to 38 and then settles at 30(wtf idk does it matter? Even such a thing as a good EFI tester?). Pressure at the fuel rail does not drop with the fuel pump unpowered while cranking. SO my current conclusion is all replace fuel injectors and fuel filter I guess? This cheap truck is getting really expensive.

Anyone have any experience with having all injectors plugged?
 
I wonder if it's more likely that you have enough power to run the noid light, but not enough to actually power the injectors. They do need more current. Even if it's not by much.

I've been fooled before by voltage but no current.
 
I wonder if it's more likely that you have enough power to run the noid light, but not enough to actually power the injectors. They do need more current. Even if it's not by much.

I've been fooled before by voltage but no current.
Usually while attempting to start its sitting on a battery charger at 10 amp setting with a new battery, but it does have 25amp setting, what's it gonna do not start? I try that tomorrow, and maybe trying to manually pulse that one injector with the charger. If I could just free up one injector maybe that would give me a path forward. Also that might explain why trying to energize with 9v battery did nothing to both a injector from a t-bird intake I had and the one ranger injector I can get to, the internet lied to me.
 

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