91 stubby ranger build thread

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Well here is my build thread.

I'm getting closer. Just waiting on more parts to come in.

List
Finish front bumper - in progress
Steering go UTK and see how it drives then
Sway bay weld mounts on axle and hook up.
steering stabilizer build mount on axle side.
Headliner, pull down or redo fabric./=
rock sliders finish and install them.

Next winter project list
Swap 89 cab and redo BO wiring.
Swap out the D30 for the D44
Rebuild the D44 with 513 gears and a locker
Rebuild spare 8.8 with locker and 513 gears

Things that may go bad in the mean time, engine looses oil pressure. Might just need an oil change. I don't think I ever changed the oil on this 4.0? I really cant remember I bought the whole truck to put on my bronco II frame and it was a rush thing to get it ready for the mud bogs that spring. It had a lot of work done to the motor before i got it, but the A4LD was bad and at that time it was just a mud bog rig that only went to 1 mud bog lol I've got 2 other spare 4.0s. So well just have to see.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Got some more done. I moved the steering down to UTK and 45 mph I had very bad death wobble..... After swapping tires and finding issues with my track bar that I fixed. 10 years ago I guess i put the stock bolt back in the axle side which was 10 mm. The bushing was bigger and it ate out the axle mount. Drilled them both to 1/2 and had no play....Thinking I got it, I drove it and it was no change. Called the tire shop and ordered tires. I wanted new tires and I wanted to get rid of my 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.0 adapters. I had nice 5 on 4.5 10 wide wheels. so idk what was messed tires or rims or whatever but no more death wobble....I know my track bar to my tie bar aren't the same, and I'm going to work on that. I have more room there with my steering stabilizer mount gone, so I really think I can add one. Also my tie rod ends are rolling so i ordered some Cure kit from RS and I'm going to give it a try. I just am not sure how much work i want to do to this D30. If I can get my sway bar on and get my steering stabilizer on and see how it drives. Idk I want to put money into my D44 not this D30.... I'm tired of this d30 it is the bane of my existence. I know I was a cheap collage kid but I'm fixing issues I did then. lol olwell right. haha Next i'm working on the bumper and the sway bar. My Ebrake cables came in also. need to do the rock sliders also. I cant get into this thing. lol with the new tires its even taller...

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Haven't posted in a while. Here are some current pictures and some more on the ta-do list.

Install resealed and tapped steering box for hydra assist steering. Ram is here.
Sway bar is half done, have to weld mounts on the axle still, and build links but I'm almost there.

It drives ok, from 0 to 55. after 55 its hard to keep straight. I'm hoping the sway bars fix that and getting my steering done up a little tighter will help. Try to do something to it, when I'm home on days off. Its sure nice to have steps to get in it!!!

 

[scotts90ranger]

Your handling issues are likely your drag link to track bar geometry, the track bar is way too steep, the lower mount needs to be moved up, and the closer to the same length between the two the better...

 

[dvdswan]

What is the angle on the knuckles as well? IIRC it should be 6-8* for return to center. Anything less will give a death wobble. I only ask this because one of the images from the side, it looks like the front axle is set back an inch or two and maybe twisted the angle down.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Your handling issues are likely your drag link to track bar geometry, the track bar is way too steep, the lower mount needs to be moved up, and the closer to the same length between the two the better...

It definitely could be, and it might be just time to put the D44. My D30 I put in it has the cad disconnect and i have very little room there to move the track bar mount. I just have to finish building the D44.

I know part of my issue, is I have rusty offroad Xj 6.5 coils also and they are very soft. This thing has body roll like no other but it flexs very well. I'm just working my way down, every issue I've found I fix and it drives better. I hope the sway bar helps, which it should.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

What is the angle on the knuckles as well? IIRC it should be 6-8* for return to center. Anything less will give a death wobble. I only ask this because one of the images from the side, it looks like the front axle is set back an inch or two and maybe twisted the angle down.

View attachment 78317

I just checked it but the problem with it is I can't adjust it any more. I have a CV drive line going to the front, and with that you have to point the diff at the transfer case. If you don't its my understanding the CV drive line will fail. My front drive line is to steep to have a normal drive line. Unless I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure, that's how you are supposed to set up for a CV drive line.

I need to move the axle forward a few inches. My coils are bent forward a little but i cant go any more, I need to move my coil buckets forward more. I don't have a death wobble problem. Putting the cure on my TREs and fixing my loose track bar fixed that. It just sways really bad, at above 55 it just moves all over the place. The sway bar should help with that, My steering box is making noise also, so idk if it has a problem there also. I've got my spare box that i'm tapping for hydro assist. My seal kit just came in for it, and i'm going to do that, so that might be some of my problem also.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I would worry less about front pinion angle than having some caster, especially if you have a disconnect (unless you have it bypassed so the front axle turns all the time...). If it doesn't have a disconnect then yeah, it might vibrate but less since it's not under power...

With that short of a wheelbase and soft front springs a sway bar would help...

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

I would worry less about front pinion angle than having some caster, especially if you have a disconnect (unless you have it bypassed so the front axle turns all the time...). If it doesn't have a disconnect then yeah, it might vibrate but less since it's not under power...

With that short of a wheelbase and soft front springs a sway bar would help...

My caster at the C of the knuckle if i remember was 0*s. But am wrong to thing that? I always thought a CV drive shaft should be pointed up to the transfer case in either a front axle or rear axle? I do have the front axle disconnect by passed. This is pretty much how I have it setup.
\

 

[scotts90ranger]

With offroad suspensions compromises have to be made... I'll have to let someone else chime in on how important the CV pinion angle deal is on a non drive axle compared to having some pinion angle, having a live front axle might just change things, but it depends on the use and how much pinion bearing and front U joint wear is acceptable, having the pinion angle within a few degrees should be acceptable...

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

With offroad suspensions compromises have to be made... I'll have to let someone else chime in on how important the CV pinion angle deal is on a non drive axle compared to having some pinion angle, having a live front axle might just change things, but it depends on the use and how much pinion bearing and front U joint wear is acceptable, having the pinion angle within a few degrees should be acceptable...

Thats a good point. I might have to play with it some more. Now that I've drove it some and I want to recheck my toe again. But I might just play with my caster some and see if it helps. Its pretty easy to adjust.

I've got to add the sway bar mounts to the axle still. I had to build new mounts to move the sway bar on the frame side, it just hit the coils.

Everything I've done has made it better. This is what I should of done 10 years ago when it was a bronco 2 but I was young and dumb and thought it drove good enough.

 

[dvdswan]

My caster at the C of the knuckle if i remember was 0*s. But am wrong to thing that? I always thought a CV drive shaft should be pointed up to the transfer case in either a front axle or rear axle? I do have the front axle disconnect by passed. This is pretty much how I have it setup.
\ View attachment 78381

the "C" should be tilted for a return to center. I cut and turned my "C"s to change my pinion angle up. When I welded them back on I had IIRC a 6* or 7* angle. It should be somewhere between 6-8*.

 

[dvdswan]

And the track bar info...

Track Bars, Drag Links and Track Bar Brackets – how it all works together…. - JK-Forum.com - The top destination for Jeep JK and JL Wrangler news, rumors, and discussion

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

And the track bar info...

Track Bars, Drag Links and Track Bar Brackets – how it all works together…. - JK-Forum.com - The top destination for Jeep JK and JL Wrangler news, rumors, and discussion

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

the "C" should be tilted for a return to center. I cut and turned my "C"s to change my pinion angle up. When I welded them back on I had IIRC a 6* or 7* angle. It should be somewhere between 6-8*.

Well I just adjusted my upper control arms. My caster went from 0* to 4.5* and I’m out of adjustment. But I took it for a drive and it drove night and day. I’m curious if I was able to get to 6-7* how much better it would drive.

my steering box started puking fluid out the pitman arm shaft, good thing a got a spare.