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89 Town Car good choice for a donor?


bduke23

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
369
City
Saskatoon, Sk
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Just like the title says. Found one with huge rust problems for sale cheap, but it has a 5.0l, I think AOD, and its fuel injected. Oh, it has 166 000 km on it. Would the rad also be able to be used? I'm assuming all accessories would be left on the engine, minus maybe the ac. Would this work with the stock ps pump on my ranger?

Edit: Just re read tech library, it says driveshaft changes will be needed for an AOD unless truck came with an a4ld. Instead of having my driveshafts modified, could I just search junkyards to find a 4x4 ranger reg cab long box (same as mine) with an A4ld and just grab the driveshafts off that?
 
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Really guys, no one has any experience with them or has thought about using them?
 
It's a 150hp non-HO motor, and an auto trans. It's as good as any other. Has the correct oil pan.
 
It should be a roller so it is better than some, but it isn't a HO so it isn't as good as others. I have E6 heads on my engine, check out my thread (toward the end) a little farther down in the V8 swap forum for ID and what the potential is for them.

A major plus is you are buying it as a running car, so aside from knowing how well it runs you have the ENTIRE fuel injection system to swap.

Dunno about the rad. Most Ford PS pumps are the same. The two engines I have drug home have pumps that look like what is on my Ranger. Most parts store websites have places you can look up and compare #'s to see if it the same across models. It would have the serp belt setup which is nicer because it is much more compact than the earlier v-belt setup.
 
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Yea I really want to buy a running vehicle with all the pieces I need, that way I know it works and will all work together. I'd rather have a FI engine, and the extra gear in the AOD will be a plus just for fuel mileage. I've done some quick looking, and a town car seems to be a good way to go. As an extra bonus, there are usually quite a few around that are completely rusted out, but still have great drive trains in them.
 
Town Car

My advice is to look for lower miles unless you are going to rebuild the engine. I used a crown Vic HO engine in mine and the hours you put in are amazing as is the aggravation so make sure you do it right! I had to notch the frame to get the smog pump to fit and notch the frame to get the headers to fit. I used a James Duff radiator and mounts. The engine sits lower than I would like but the air intake barely clears the hood. I didn't use the EGR spacer since I canned the pollution garbage (so notching the frame was a waste of time) No pollution testing here in Georgia unless you live in Atlanta. The exploer throttle body seems to be of choice but the AC/heater needs to be modified to clear. On mine the throttle body comes streight out of the intake mainifold. I didn't have room for a fan using the VIC, town car brackets with the two serpintine belts, so I am using electric push fans.
 
Just over 100k miles, which isn't much for a EFI engine.
 
My A4LD yoke was completely different from my AOD, way too small. Not sure if that's something they changed over the years on the A4LD, or if the AOD output shaft was just different - my trans came out of a '90 T-bird S/C 3.8L. Unless you plan your swap around your drive shaft length, I think having to go to a drive line shop is going to be on the bill. Not a huge deal.

Lots ask if a radiator can be reused out of some random car, hard to tell, most go with aftermarket or ones they have avaliable. Best way to figure out if it will be a good fit (be prepared to gut the core support) is to compare and see when the engine is out and do what you need to get it installed.

Could probably just use the pump on the 5.0L. I am using a Cougar pump from an early 90's 5.0L w/o variable assist and a stock Ranger high pressure line w/ my Ranger steering box.

I am running an '87 that is close to what you have, but it's completely different now with a single serp setup / reverse rotation timing cover and water pump. That motor in the Grand Marquis I pulled it out of was a real dog when it was in the car, but very reliable.
 
I am running an '87 that is close to what you have, but it's completely different now with a single serp setup / reverse rotation timing cover and water pump. That motor in the Grand Marquis I pulled it out of was a real dog when it was in the car, but very reliable.

What did you do it and how is it now?

Mine is also an '87 out of a Grand Marquis... I think it should still be a decent improvent over a dying 2.8 though.
 
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What did you do it and how is it now?

Mine is also an '87 out of a Grand Marquis... I think it should still be a decent improvent over a dying 2.8 though.

Only thing stock on my engine is the block, crank, and the rods. Had forged pistons put in so I could run a little nitrous oxide later on. But had ARP rod bolts put in, crank is turned, block was magged and bored .030". B303 cam, GT40 heads, 1.6:1 Crane rockers, headers w/ h-pipe. Runs a Holley vac sec 600cfm carb with a high rise dual plane intake.

Motor runs good but it is geared wrong. I can do 110 in 3rd no problem. :icon_twisted: I would like it to top out at 120-130ish in O/D to still give me a good top end and better acceleration off the line. But I have some tall back tires on it now. Bought a set of BF GeForce summer tires that are a lot shorter, but I need to figure out what gears I need to get me ball park. It's not bad for what it is, but those gears are my bottle neck right now. Just been out of money! :icon_thumby:

The motor wasn't all that bad, just a heavy car. Should still be a lot of fun in a Ranger.
 
The motor wasn't all that bad, just a heavy car. Should still be a lot of fun in a Ranger.

I hope so, I am running the stock longlock. Duraspark igniton with a 4bbl, probably an Edelbrock.

If my truck goes over 100mph I will be screaming like a little girl because I just drove off a cliff... :icon_surprised:
 

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