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88 V-8 Swap Accessory Questions


Diggerauditor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Messages
113
City
South Bend, IN
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I did a V-8 swap into my 88 2WD from a 97 Exploder. I used the accy that came with that motor. I've found that the P/S Pump will not drive my steering box so I'm changing the accy's over to the stock pump. To do this I have to change the accy drive. I have seen the p/n's for the brackets but can't find any pics for them. Are they standard Mustang parts or are they special items. I would like to keep the serpentine system. Does anyone have pics of these brackets or off what year of vehicle I can get them to go with my short water pump that is on it right now?

E7TZ-10A313-B Alt Mounting Bracket
E6AZ-2888-A Alt Adjusting Bracket
E7TZ-3C511-A Power Steering Bracket
 
I don't think the pump builds sufficient pressure because I have no P/S. I've tried 3 pumps and 2 steering boxes w/o results. My steering linkage is fine and it turns fine with weight off of the front end. I, talked to Denver at Duffs and he can't figure it out either. It had P/S before I changed the motor so I'm just going to put the Ranger pump back on it. Hence the reason I'm going back to a diff accy system. If you have any suggestions please let me know.

Thank you
 
The explorer 5.0 pump has more pressure and volume than the older mustang style pump. Something else is up...

SVT
 
Ok, I removed the tie rods from the spindles on Sat, after I removed the tires. To my dismay, I could not turn the spindles back and forth, on the driver side, w/o a tremendous amount of effort. I assume that the ball joints are completely worn out. If I could barely move them with no weight on them, it's no wonder the P/S won't turn them with weight on them. The other issue I have is, the passenger side ball joints were replaced last year and only marginally easier to move. Is this a ball joint issue or something else. I know there should be some bind when the spindles are torqued but not to this degree. Any help would be appreciated.

I ordered new ball joints for both sides. Quality parts this time, Moog, not the advance cheapies this time. Am I on the right track or is there something else I'm missing?
 
Overtightened ball joint nuts. They have a torque value not just tighten them til they strip and add a quarter turn. DO NOT GET MOOG PARTS. The quality is way done from the past. Best ball joint IMHO is the NAPA rebuild-able ones.
 
Agreed, over tightened joints dont like to move. X2 on the napa joints, or go motorcraft from rock auto...

SVT
 
Ok, I just completed re-assembling the front suspension. I replaced both sets of ball joints, everything moved freely with only the resistance you might expect after torqueing the nuts. I replaced both tie-rod ends and both center links. Put it on the ground and started it up and you still have to grunt to get the wheels to move. There is no rubbing of the tires, rims, links, I-beams, or radius arms. I'm about 7 kinds of pissed off right now and may just scrap the truck. I've been working on this problem for the better part of a year and I'm so tired of it.

I did notice that the I-beam eyes, that bolt into the drop brackets seem to have a little tilt to them. IDK if the I-beams are bent or what. All I know is that the steering worked fine with the engine swap but failed after I put in the drop brackets and springs. Here is what the I-beam eyes look like:

I-Beam1.jpgI-Beam2.jpg

Anyone have any ideas? If not the truck goes to the crusher...
 
Tried it without any weight on the wheels?

If it happened after you did the other beams and springs it is probably something related to that rather than the Explorer setup.

It is a little light on assist during the winter but once it warms up (and it doesn't take long) but mine steers great with the Explorer pump. I don't know if it is something not quite right between them or the 180k pump.
 
Last edited:
It could be binding in the shafts. Remove the shafts and test again...

SVT
 
Axleshafts...

SVT
 

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