88 ranger front wheel bearing issue

[Kelson_w]

I have an 88 ranger with the Dana 28 front 4x4. The truck pulls to the right. I have had the ball joints replace along with all the brakes and tires rotated and Balanced. On top of the truck pulling to the right it also eats the outer wheel bearings and the spindle. I'm at a lose on what is the problem. The truck is mainly used for highway use 4x4 has not been used since late December. I thought of a wheel alignment but that was done after the ball joints where replaced. Any ideas?

 

[Andy D]

Does Ball joint R+R require a toe check afterward ? Were bearins repacked and replaced properly. Stop nut cranked down? May be dangerous. Prolly should check it out.

 

[wildbill23c]

I'm having the same issue and was told that either replace the bearings or replace the whole front wheel hub (spindle) assembly. Not really sure the proper name to call it, as the brake disc and the hub are one piece, with the bearings inside of this. I'm guessing that the whole inside of the hub are worn on mine as the whole wheel will wobble all over the place. Guessing you are having the same issue along with tires that are wearing unevenly on the front. Get it in and get the wheel hub assembly replaced, don't bother with having the bearings replaced as the bearing races are probably already worn to the point which is causing this problem as is my case. I think the whole wheel hub assembly is about $45. Don't mix this up with the manual lock-in hub LOL, many people for some reason in one of my posts I think were trying to refer to that rather than the actual wheel hub itself.

My issue started because the camber bushings have failed making the front wheels lean in towards each other at the bottom. Now at a close inspection my driver's side front tire actually is slightly turned to the left while the passenger side tire is pointed straight forward. Guessing that's the alignment part of my problem.

Yes, the bearings and most likely the whole wheel hub assembly are shot. In this case I'd go with the more expensive option and just replace the whole thing and be done with it. Course you may need to have an alignment again to correct anything that may have been overlooked due tot he failed parts.

 

[Kelson_w]

I know how to do all the wheel bearings and race ways I can replace those but I have done it to factory specs 3 times, this last time I had to replace my manual hub lock and all the locknuts and washers. And with the two a arms on this 4x4 set up I'm at a lose cause ya my passenger wheel looks like its pointing out and the driver side is striaght.

When I replace the wheel bearing i packed all the new bearings and torqued down to factory specs.

My wheels are wearing on the inside which is toe out i think.

 

[wildbill23c]

I am just saving up the money to have everything done at once on mine, I just had new tires put on it and then the bad news of needing the new wheel hub set me back a few months again so my Bronco 2 is just sitting in the corner like its been bad LOL.

Need the camber bushing kit done, and an alignment so I'm just going to have it all done at once this time. If I have any other bearing issues I can do them myself, I've replaced bearings many times, its not to bad, just takes time, and can get somewhat messy if you aren't careful.

 

[Kelson_w]

OK so I have installed 2 degree caster chamber sleeves on the upper ball joints, repacked and torqued the wheels bearing into spec and had an alignment done. It still pulls to the right, all the tires are fine I have switch them sides and it still pulls to the right. I have ran out of ideas as to what could he causes this issue

 

[ab_slack]

A strong pull, weak pull?

What happens when brakes are pressed?

Is the pull constant or like maybe when you start to drive it is mild but later gets stronger?

When you say it appears to be a little toe-out that doesn't seem right, but I wonder if it might be like a problem I had.

I had what seemed like a pretty mild pull to the left. More like tendency to drift that way that I hardly considered an issue.. I pretty much thought nothing of it and didn't drive it that much and mostly local. When I made a long trip I noticed the pull seemed much worse. It also seemed that my brake vibrated worse and even started to experience a general shaking of front end that felt like something went out of balance.

But next day it was fine. It only happened rarely and only after a long drive. Eventually one day this happened and it got so bad I had to stop. I went to verify that one hub hadn't gotten locked and noticed that one side (driver) was very hot and the plastic lock/unlock knob on the hub had melted. The other side was warn but I could put my hand on the black portion of the locking hub. The driver side it burned me.

I thought it was a bearing at first, but later found it was caused by my brake caliper not releasing. The problem turned out to be a collapsed brake line acting like a check valve. On short drives it never accumulated much extra pressure and it was only when it got hot that it became a real problem.

I can easily see something like this causing a stronger pull and cause wheel bearings to wear out.

Assuming wheel bearings are good, a quick check for something like this is to do a A-B comparison of left/right side by feeling the black part of the locking hub (or lug nut) after a significant drive. If one side is significantly hotter than the other (in your case the right side) there is a chance perhaps that it is related to the brakes not releasing on that wheel.

 

[jhammel85]

The only thing i can think of is a dragging brake caliper. They're fairly cheap (20 bucks or so on Rockauto).

 

[Kelson_w]

Assuming wheel bearings are good, a quick check for something like this is to do a A-B comparison of left/right side by feeling the black part of the locking hub (or lug nut) after a significant drive. If one side is significantly hotter than the other (in your case the right side) there is a chance perhaps that it is related to the brakes not releasing on that wheel.

That seems very much the same as the problem i have, the hub on the right is hot after a 30 min drive, and around 65mph the wheel has a little shake in it plus it pulls pretty moderate all the time. at lower speeds 30 or less it is a weak pull but you can tell it is there

 

[ab_slack]

That seems very much the same as the problem i have, the hub on the right is hot after a 30 min drive, and around 65mph the wheel has a little shake in it plus it pulls pretty moderate all the time. at lower speeds 30 or less it is a weak pull but you can tell it is there

Clearly then either the brake isn't releasing, bearing is already bad, or maybe (just speculative) bearing is seeing such abnormal stresses that the bearing is generating extra heat.

Unless you know the bearing is bad, I would be definitely be looking at the brake not releasing since I know that will make the heat differential and the heat will waste the grease and bearing. Either caliper or, like in my case, the brake line. I changed the caliper first but still had the issue till changing the line.

Good luck with it.

 

[wildbill23c]

Both the hubs on my 84 B2 are getting hot and I just had the bearings done a week ago. And that's just after an 8 mile drive. WTH is going on now. If the brakes weren't releasing you would think you would feel it while driving, but seems everything is running pretty free. Is it possible that the shop tightened up the nut on the spindle too tight causing things to drag?

 

[ab_slack]

Both the hubs on my 84 B2 are getting hot and I just had the bearings done a week ago. And that's just after an 8 mile drive. WTH is going on now. If the brakes weren't releasing you would think you would feel it while driving, but seems everything is running pretty free. Is it possible that the shop tightened up the nut on the spindle too tight causing things to drag?

Maybe there isn't a brake releasing issue with yours? I can only speak for mine. Under normal conditions they will get warm, particularly if it is hot out. The differential in temperature between sides was one big symptom with mine.

I am certainly no expert so never put too much faith in what I may offer!!

 

[wildbill23c]

Both sides on mine are the same so maybe its normal. Brakes don't seem to be hanging up or not releasing and I don't have it pulling to one side or the other anymore, so maybe everything was just so lose prior to having the front end work done that it just didn't seem to be getting as hot. Mine isn't just one side and both sides seem to be about the same as far as being hot so maybe its just normal. Center of the hubs where the red lock in knobs are don't get jot just the metal on the outside. Guess I'll wait and see if they get hot and melt LOL.

 

[a31ford]

FWIW, I had the same "tug to the right" kind of thing, funny it started just after the daughter hit a curb (30 mph or so) A arm on pass side was "kinked" (not bent) replaced the bushings in the long bolt that goes from the arm back to the frame (wana call it a strut, but more like a torsion bar), NEW ALIGNMENT, PROBLEM GONE.

Greg

 

[ab_slack]

WildBill, yep the red knobs really never get hot, just the black around. I find they get a little warm normally unless I lock the hubs. When locked they seem to stay cooler.

When the red melted the black part was too hot to hold my hand on. And I got a nasty 2nd burn from touching a lug nut. No blister on the pad of my finger, but the skin was like melted. They weren't glowing red, but the normally silver chrome had a slightly bluish hue.

Having resolved the issue with new brake caliper and new rubber hose and dealing with the bearing I still have that hub there. Surprising it still locks and unlocks the hub. If just sticks in the unlock position and keep a vice grip handy to help me turn it. My fingers aren't that strong.

I plan to replace it before the winter comes.