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88 Ranger eletronic feed back carb


Got spark now. Have to finish up the wiring routing remove the Duraspark stuff and bolt the MSD down.
Next issue is I dont think its getting fuel
 

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Hmmmm...that looks vaguely familiar...not the MSD box but the tangle of wires...lol

160 HP???

I know it's very possible to attain that kind of power, but what did you do to get it? Cam, porting, overbore...all of them or some?
 
Hmmmm...that looks vaguely familiar...not the MSD box but the tangle of wires...lol

160 HP???

I know it's very possible to attain that kind of power, but what did you do to get it? Cam, porting, overbore...all of them or some?

All of the above also milled the head 20 or 30 thou
 
Ignition now hooked up and working. Checked fuel pump for flow. Hope to fire it up tomrrow
 

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Looks like the nexrt issue is the brakes. The front brake line from the master cyl to the Tee at the frame is shot. But upon removing the line found the threads in the master cylinder to be screwed up. Guess I have to go with a reman cylinder.
 
Ignition now hooked up and working. Checked fuel pump for flow. Hope to fire it up tomrrow

That looks much cleaner...and I'd imagine you got it running if you are tackling the brakes...:icon_thumby:

Had similar issues with my first Ranger...one project leads to another...to another...took me about a year to actually get everything working as I wanted it...and then started over...

Anyway...replacing the master and running new brake lines is actually quite easy on these trucks...but if you have the time and resources I'd highly recommend changing the flex lines...soon...my front brakes kept binding after a hard stop (which was quite frequent in my commute) and finally figured out the flex lines had collapsed causing the brakes to lock up and not release...common issue, even with some of the newer trucks.
 
Havent fired it up yet. Its been too cold to open the shop door. With no brakes cant back it out as its up hill to get into the shop.
Since I have manual brakes the master cly costs twice as much, boo.

Check into a windshield. Cost for one of those shops that come to your place and install a new one 200.00. I could do it myself but for them or myself to do it has to be a lot warmer. Lucky to get my shop up to 50* for a couple hrs a day and wood supply is getting low. With the low temps lately lucky to hit 40*.
 

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Upon removing the master cyl found the front (rear brake) line has be replaced before. They didnt flare the tube though. Now it is.
Had to make up a new line for the rear port (front brakes).
Dont know how many of you know about the copper nickle brake lines. They are easy to form and dont croade anothe pluss they pollish up nice.

I now wounder were the new rear brake line splices into the old and how it was done. Know one line to the passenger side of the rear axle is broken too. So guess thats next things to do.
 

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I replaced them all at once many years ago. It was a learning experience but they are still working after all these years and still in pretty good shape.

Hardest part of the rear line is to get around the gas tank, but I found that if I split the line and used a joint connector I didn't have to use a single line. Much easier to do it that way except it's one more possible leak.

Like I'd said before, the flex lines on the front are worth doing now while you have everything apart...unless you are pressed for time or financial reasons. The flex line on the rear where the brake line feeds to is also an area of concern for rust...I've seen a few people take the bracket right out and replace it, but also cleaned up the frame in that area...

Removing the box makes it all so much easier...
 
Thought I would be starting it a few days ago but the brakes needed more work.
A couple more days were waisted findig a rirht and left front calapers that matched.
Kept getting a steel piston for the left and a plastic one on the right untill today. Now have steel pistons on both sides but not insatlled yet.
 
working on the rear wheel cylinders one started leaking. The one that I thought would be good. Real pain one of the bolts that hold them to the backing plate has rounded off and is stuck.
 
Oh, yeah, been there too. Can't remember what I did with mine but spraying it with PB Blaster or similar and using one of those stripped bolt sockets might help...I had a set of them at one time but can't even remember where they got to...
 
Replaced the rear wheel cylinders also needed adjusters one was locked up on both ends. Freed the screw end but could remove the other end.
Tried most of the day to bleed the brakes. Appears the reman master cylinder is no good. Going to return it and purchase a new one. Got a two day wait for it.
 
In short got it running and stoping. Gave it to my son up in MI. hE GOT THE WINDSHIELD FIXED AND A FEW OTHER THINGS. Quite a few people have run him down to ask him aboutthe truck amazed about how quick it is and whats in it.
 
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Cool~! Glad everything worked out and the truck is in good hands...

People often run me down and ask me why my truck is so slow...lol...I tell them there is a limit in the universe due to creativity issues as to how much HP can be made...and then I tell them you took most of mine and I have to wait until another Ranger dies before I can make any more HP on mine...or something like that...
 

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