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88 Ranger Axle Swap


russ1960

New Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2015
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I have recently acquired an 88 Ranger with the 2.0 5 spd 3.73 rear setup. It has only 120,000 and the engine still runs like a sewing machine. The problem as I am sure most of you know is that it has the power of said sewing machine.I am wondering if a rear axle swap would give me any more towing capacity or help maintain highway speed when climbing hills. If so which rear axle would be recommended and what year range should I look for? Thanks
 
Well you won't find them in any factory trucks, but I went all the way to 4.56 with 235/75R15 tires (~29" tall), and couldn't be happier. Of course, I'm not a speed demon with it, I like to keep it at the speed limit or slower if I'm towing. Though there are some here that disagree with my opinion on the matter. At 70 mph in overdrive, I'm turning about 3,000 rpm. Peak torque is about 2,800 for a '97 2.3L, so I'm just about right in the sweet spot.

Tire size plays a huge roll in gearing setup, so we'll need to know your tire size too.

Also, these engines need the RPM, don't be shy about winding it out a little. 3000 rpm for a 2.3L 4 cylinder is the same number of power strokes as a 4.6L V8 at 1500, when it's put in that context it seems a little more reasonable. Do not fear the gear!

And for the record, my mileage increased.

They do make 4.56 for 7.5" axles, installing them gets a little tricky due to the crosspin needing to go through the ring gear when you install it, necessitating the ring gear, crosspin, or both to be notched. they also make torsen differentials for them too.

I'd recommend an 8.8 out of a Ranger, 10" drum brakes (make sure it's not the crappy 9" ones), and 4.10 gears to start, some can be had with limited slips. It won't be much of a step, but it might be noticeable.
 
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Thanks Capt. Ledd, only other questions I have is as long as the spring perches are the same width would any year model be a direct swap? Are universal joints the same?
 
Spring perches are the same width. 93-97 are a little wider wms to wms, 98+ are slightly wider still, though not noticeable unless you're looking for it.

There are some u-joint differences, somewhere around 92/93 they went to a larger u-joint. They make conversion u-joints, or you can re-drill and tap the flange for the correct smaller pattern and use your existing driveshaft flange. The locating circle should be the same diameter regardless, the bolts don't have to be as perfect as you think, they just hold it on there, though it will make it easier to install the more accurate they are.
 
They changed to the bigger U joint in mid '89 or '90, if you stick with a 7.5" axle you can swap over to your old flange without issue...

Like said, the only lower gearing available from the factory is 4.10, and the only "easy" rig to find those in is 4 cylinder 4x4 Rangers.

All Ranger's have the same leaf spring width, so as long as you stick with Ranger axles they are all pretty much a bolt in affair... that said, I'm not sure the small step of 3.73 to 4.10 would be worth it... it would be a whole lot easier to just downshift...
 
Like said, the only lower gearing available from the factory is 4.10, and the only "easy" rig to find those in is 4 cylinder 4x4 Rangers.

I believe the OPs truck is 2wd so it'll be easier for him to find a 4.10 rear. Lot of 2wd 2.3 & 3.0 autos came with 4.10s and a lot of '98+ trucks had 4.10s also.
 

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