88 hubs nuts question

[Buddha62]

hello
i just got a 88 ranger
2.9
manual trans with manual locking hubs
the left wheel fell off (previous owner) and i had to replace the whole spindle/rotor assembly
the used assembly has the automatic(hex) spindle nut instead of the 2 locking spindle nuts.
my question is can i use the automatic hex spindle nut with the stock locking hubs????
this is going to be a daily driver with little to no off road use
thanks
Buddha

 

[AllanD]

No, the inside diameter of the manual locking hubs is smaller than the Auto hub housings.

Basically near the rotor end of the auto hub there is a relief cut to chear the rounded hex of the auto-hub nut. that relief cut is absent on the manual hub.

Do you need a "one wheel" set of manual hub nuts?

AD

 

[Buddha62]

nuts

yea i just need them for one wheel.
are you saying the manual hubs wont fit over the auto nuts then without cutting a relief into the hubs??? i have access to a lathe and it seems from the post here that the manual nuts are a pain and the the auto nuts would be easier to use?????
Buddha

 

[MAKG]

A pull-yer-own junkyard is often a good place to get these nuts for free or very cheap, though you do need to yank them yourself.

Alternatively, you can buy them from Dorman individually, and they aren't THAT expensive. Certainly nowhere near what Warn wants for them.

Use the correct parts or your truck will suffer the same fate again.

Having used both types of nuts on the same truck, the manual ones are better. They can be adjusted considerably more precisely, so you don't have to choose between burning up your wheel bearings and having slightly floppy front wheels (I like them STIFF).

And weakening the hubs is probably not in your best interest. Automatic hubs ratchet the locking mechanism and toast the plastic. Manual hubs break the case. You should avoid making the weakest part weaker.