88 2.9L No Fuel pressure, only 7.5V through the inertia switch

[BillRod]

Yes, No matter How I use the ohm meter I have virtually no resistance between the neg battery post and pretty much every where else on the truck. Front Frame, Body, Block, Rear Frame, Cab, you name it seems to be good.

 

[351rangerxxx]

best way to test ur ground is to put a load on it. use a headlight with one terminal to the postive post of the battery and the other on the part that you want to check ground at. a ohm meter uses such a small amount of current that a hair wire can make it show good but it can't carry any real world load.

 

[BillRod]

Thanks for the info, I did not realize that about the ohm meter.
I'll give that a try and see how that works.

Thanks
Bill

 

[351rangerxxx]

good luck and hope you find it soon

 

[Mysticcook]

Hello long time lurker. This site has been a big help!!! Had a similiar problem with a 86 ranger. I would start with the volts issue if your batt has 12+ volts then try testing your coil. its my understanding that u need 12 v at fuel pump relay (green one)I would have to go look to see which wire. cause if thats not getting 12v than u start looking at eec relay(which u replaced)ignition switch,coil
The power goes ignition switch, computer, coil, assuming good ground.computer fires up pin 22 which gives power to fuel pump relay then inertia switch then gas tank.
just my 2 cents very basic overview ignition module gets thrown in there rigtht after coil but a place to look.

 

[BillRod]

FOUND IT!!!


I pulled the front pump an found the ground spade connector on the wire side was cracked and barely touching. Replaced the connector and reinsalled.
Tried it again and Nothing!

Traced the power wire up to the harness under the master cylinder and found a funny connector, kinda looks like an old fashioned barrrel fuse holder, pulled that apart and had continuity between there and the pump end. Put the ohm meter between the other end of that connector and the connector by the FPR that goes to the intertia switch and No continuity.

Unwrapped the harness by the Master Cylinder and lo and behold there were broken wires! The wire to the pump was broke.
There was actually 7 wires that were totally worn through and 2 that were almost totally worn through.

Got out my soldering iron and heat shrink tubing and now the truck runs again!!!

Thanks for all the advice and help on this.

There is now a new issue but I may post that in a new thread if it does not recover on it's own.
Since the truck has not ran in a month there is a pretty good lifter noise.
I have started it 6 times and each time it gets a little better.
It always had a small tick that went away when it warmed up, so I'm hoping the noisey lifter will just slowly pump itself back up and recover on it's own.

Keep your fingers crossed everyone!

Thanks again!
Bill

 

[Area 52]

FOUND IT!!!


It always had a small tick that went away when it warmed up, so I'm hoping the noisey lifter will just slowly pump itself back up and recover on it's own.

Holy crap Bill...I'm glad you found it because I was starting to get a tick!