87 Ranger in tank fuel pump and sending unit

[greaseyfingers]

Where is the wire plug connection located for a 87 Ranger in tank fuel pump and sending unit??

Being the in tank fuel pump doesn't seem to be working and the sending unit in the tank isn't sending a signal to the dash fuel gauge..

Does the same plug connection, where ever it's located, power both the in tank fuel pump and sending unit??

If it have so happens that I need to replace the in tank fuel pump and sending unit..

What's involved in doing this?? Is it just removing 6 bed bolts and unplugging the wire connection for the bed's tail lights??

Can one person move the pickup's bed to gain access to the fuel tank??

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

if you have no help with removing the bed, one person can easily remove the fuel tank from the bottom with a hydraulic jack.

i believe the plug is right at the top of the fuel tank so you can't access it without lowering the tank a little or removing the bed.

 

[piotrsko]

above post but added:

since I have gotten fairly good at this recently:

where does the fuel gauge read? if it is "empty" then the sender is the fault. they can be taken apart and rebuilt by bending the copper fingers on the float arm so the fingers touch the resistive element again. be careful as the fingers are really fragile. If it reads full, you have a short in the wiring somewhere.

the lower fuel pump is kinda optional, as I drove frankenranger a year without it. if someone ran the tank dry, they probably fried the pump, and it is about $100 for a new one, never tried junk yards.

you can raise the bed if you have floor jack and 2X4 for a spacer. be really careful and block it up with more 2X4's on the frame rail as this will be really unstable to work under. The bed weighs about 100 lbs, but could really mess you up if it falls. 2 people are better. 6 bolts, i think torx 45 or 50, and yank the taillights and license lights. I just lift the front up about 10" since I have some 4X10 wood blocks.

 

[greaseyfingers]

above post but added:

since I have gotten fairly good at this recently:

where does the fuel gauge read? if it is "empty" then the sender is the fault. they can be taken apart and rebuilt by bending the copper fingers on the float arm so the fingers touch the resistive element again. be careful as the fingers are really fragile. If it reads full, you have a short in the wiring somewhere.

the lower fuel pump is kinda optional, as I drove frankenranger a year without it. if someone ran the tank dry, they probably fried the pump, and it is about $100 for a new one, never tried junk yards.

you can raise the bed if you have floor jack and 2X4 for a spacer. be really careful and block it up with more 2X4's on the frame rail as this will be really unstable to work under. The bed weighs about 100 lbs, but could really mess you up if it falls. 2 people are better. 6 bolts, i think torx 45 or 50, and yank the taillights and license lights. I just lift the front up about 10" since I have some 4X10 wood blocks.

My Ranger's fuel gauge always registers empty, even when the tank is full of gas..

I was wondering if, maybe, the sending units float might have filled up with gas and sank to the bottom of the tank, if there's a hole in it..

Or else, maybe, the tank's plug connection isn't making sufficient contact, being the tank's fuel pump doesn't appear to be working, either, along with the tank's fuel sending unit for relaying a signal to the gas gauge, if they both work through the same connection plug going to the fuel tank..

Or else, maybe, if they both aren't receiving a good common ground, where ever the ground wired is suppose to be making contact.. Could that cause the problem??

Is the tank's fuel pump wired to a fuse, or circuit breaker, anywhere, as the primary fuel pump is working??

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I was checking my chilton wiring diagrams and could only find the wiring for the 2.0l do you have two fuel pumps for the 2.0 liter the fuel sensor and the pump share the same ground see if you can trace the wires from the tank to the first ground and clean and sand it and see if that works

 

[piotrsko]

never got as far as checking for the fuse. Tank ground is through the tank tangs, and is a signal return on the pump and float wire.
you can test the dash unit by grounding the yellow/white tank wire just long enough to see the needle move some. don't ground any others.

there would be 2 fuse devices, i believe one that says radio / instruments (#4) and another that is a blue wire fusible link somewhere near the solenoid

Oh yeah, the float could have gone holey, never mind, the unit still needs to come out. this will generally happen if it has sat with fuel in it for more than 6 months. you'll know because the exhaust/fuel will smell funny and it would clog the injectors. Somebody found a source, but I have used plastic VW floats pre 66. OR 72+ Superbeetle

been my experience with about 5 so far that the tank pump motor is going to be shot no matter what, and usually with high mileage (100K plus) vehicles, the tank sender is sort of worn out and flopping on the case bearing holes.