'86 Ranger 2.3L missing after basic tuneup

[bozo4ford]

Hi fellow Rangers,

[ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California Emissions]

Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year California " SMOG TEST ONLY, where I diligently replace my air filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)

The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking?????
A few years ago, I did replace my TFI Ignition Module, the fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was recently running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs this time. The (expensive) 8.5mm Hi-performance Mag Silicone Cable spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire, EXCEPT for the distributor coil wire on the COIL side, which was pretty dirty.

So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?

Has anyone ever experienced the metal contact on top of the rotor inside the cap in the bent-down position? That was weird. So I re-bent it back up, then just threw on my two year old rotor, but it's still missing. I went to buy only a new Distributor plug wire because the old one had a lot of brown residue inside the plug, I haven't put that back in yet.

I always took a permanent marker pen and mark each plug wire from the corresponding cylinder, so I (hopefully) never put them in the wrong order.

This is what I've found on the firing order >
2.0L and 1983 - 1988 2.3L Engines
Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
Distributor Rotation: Clockwise

Silly question...according to this order, looking at the top left of my Dist. Cap, the top left prong #1Cyl, then to the right #3 Cyl. then bottom left is # 4,then spark wire #2 to the bottom right?

Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day!

 

[Spitfire1975]

I have been going through a lot of the same on my 2.9. Check your timing. Get a resistance measurement on your coil (should be 8000 - 11,500 ohm). Measure resistance on the air temperature and coolant temperature sensors (http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/eeciv/index.htm#TFI Timing: (11)). Check TPS (.98V when KOEO). Any codes? (http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html) Check your fuel pressure....Make a list and start checking one at a time replacing known bads only. Ask questions here and do your research in the tech pages. Good Luck, have fun!

 

[bozo4ford]

I feel somewhat stupid here. OK. I am holding in my hand my old dist. cap. The two hold down screws are at the 9 and 3 o'clock position. The small black round thingie is on the right side of cap, next to the center Coil terminal on cap.(about the 3 o'clock position) I've always marked the positions of the firing order...

and this is what I'm looking at...

TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

OR... maybe when I put the cap back on this time, it was upside down,so the clockwise order would have been the correct 1-3-4-2, but this time with that black round plastic small knob is now on the left side of the cap,and not on the right side. Does it matter which side the black thing is on top of the cap, as long as the top left is 1,then going clockwise to 3,then 4,then 2? Shucks, if this is the reason, then I'm going hunting with dick Cheney!

Am I a complete klutz? No, you don't have to answer that, we have established that if this firing order is completely wrong.

So the correct firing order for my 1986 2.3L Gas,5-speed,4 banger ranger is 1-3-4-2 and not 4-2-3-1? It is no wonder that I am no mechanic. Doh!!! Thank you for your patience!

 

[Spitfire1975]

the six cylinder cap only goes on one way, with the round thingy on the right. I would think (and I don't have a 2.3) that the top left would be #1, Top R = #3, Bottom R = #4 and bottom L = #2. Now keep in mind.....I just finished scratching my head about a bad running truck. The problem??? I had it timed at 50* BTDC. So take my advice for what its worth.....

 

[bozo4ford]

*UPDATE (FEB.10, 2010 5:00 PM PST) This is a four cylinder engine.
I went to the Library and checked out the Chilton Ford Ranger and Bronco II 1983-88 years. On page 62, the firing order states 1-3-4-2 clockwise. The illustration shows the two hold down screws at 11 o’clock position right next to the #3 Cyl.) And the other screw at the 5 o’clock, or between the # 2 and # 4th Cyl.) Looking straight as the picture is shown is

1-3-4-2
(top left) # 3 - # 4 (top right)
(bottom left) # 1 - # 2 (bottom right) Maybe I'm looking at the illustration wrong.

The #3 is closest to the back of the Alternator. I tried this timing order and it would not turn over, just sounded like a very bad cough and sound like bad timing. When I hooked up my original way with the #4 closest to the back of the alternator, then #2, then bottom right is #1, then bottom left is #3, at least it would lick over and idle for about 30 seconds before it stalled out.

I also tried the top left-#1, #3, #4, #2 and that also sounded terrible, and would not turn over. I’m afraid the more I play with this, the more I’m going to mess up my timing.

SOoooooo, Let’s try this. If anyone out there in Rangerland has a 1986 Ranger 2.3L gas. 4-Cylinder, 5-speed, can you please tell me starting from the cap’s terminal CLOSEST to the back of the alternator, what # Cylinder that is, then going clockwise, what is the remaining order? I thought for sure the book would make some sense of this, but the screw locations on the cap are weird. BTW, what is that small round black thing on top of the distributor, and does it matter which side it’s on? Right or left. Thanks again!

 

[ianthegreat]

I can't imagine the timing would mysteriously change after an engine cleaning. Unless somehow the timing belt jumped a tooth due to it being wet and lubricated by oil.

Are the 2.3L's fuel injected at this point or still carb'd?

 

[bozo4ford]

No Carb, Fuel just Injection.
I don't want any more severe problems with the timing belt, or blowing any pistons, until I get a definitive firing order. One day it worked fine, then people are telling me my firing order is wrong, and also is different than the repair manual...weird. Thanks ianthegreat!

I guess it all depends how your looking at the order on the Dist. Cap from the alternator/coil side of the engine and not directly in from front of vehicle, looking to the rear of the engine.

Correct me if I'm wrong...
...that the rotor can only be connected one way?

...And that black plastic thingie on the cap doesn't matter if it's on the right side or the left side on the cap. is this some type of vent..what is it?

 

[rurouni20xx]

sounds more like your distributor cap/rotor assy is fine the way you had it installed. the thing i would look into is what else in the ignition system could have gotten wet/loose/corroded that could cause this problem. if you had a firing order problem it wouldnt run/run on 2 cylinders and backfire. check your coil connections/grounds, plug wire connections (loose caps will cause major probs) and rotor quality. when your changing your cap you are changing your rotor at the same time correct? if not the rotor can be dryrotted causing spark scatter/ignition timing misfire. is your distributor electronic or mechanical (points?) if its mechanical id make sure your points are gapped and not burnt. also turn your distributor til the points close and do a resistance reading between the input line and rotor output, you should have full continuity. electronic uses a sensor see what the resistance is on it and compare to specification. sounds like either water in plug/loose connection/corroded ground/old part failure to me is what im saying.

 

[bozo4ford]

hi,
yes, I always replace my Cap and rotor together, along with spark plugs, so my smog would pass a little easier on the first pass, without a retest. I did clean my engine BEFORE replacing the above. This is an old truck.

Under the plastic cover on the left side of the engine,between the air filter assembly and the quarter side panel, I have two components, one on a metal slider that holds it on, and are connected separately by wire harnesses...where each of these two harnesses feed into the bottom of these two components, maybe a fuel relay, anyway, they look rusted, and I've thought about going to a ford parts yard and clip these two harness bundles and splice them with new assemblies, but for that matter, I could replace the COIL, and the TFI Module, and probably still have problems.

If the repair manual says the Firing order is 1-3-4-2, then where would the #1 plug wire go? I had mine 4,2,1,3, with the #4 at top left closest to the alternator.

 

[rurouni20xx]

i looked in the tech library, number one cylinder is closest the the harmonic balancer/crank pulley/fan as you are standing in front of the truck, hood open. 4 is by the flywheel/starter/transmission. ill simply put the picture here from the tech library...

hope this helps. this is what im reading based on the diagram:
1=bottom right
3=bottom left
4=top left
2=top right
this is the procedure i would use: remove all four spark plugs, using the mark on the crank/timing cover, align the tdc mark (hash mark on the balancer) up with the zero mark on the timing cover. this can be done with a breaker bar and socket on your harmonic balancer bolt. make sure you turn your engine over CLOCKWISE so you dont relieve tension on the timing belt and cause cam timing issues. check your cam timing with the cam cover access plug, when the cam tdc and balancer marks read tdc, you are at tdc #1 cylinder. if your crank says tdc but you cam does not, you are 180 degrees out and need to turn your engine over again and line the marks up to make the crank and cam match. now with the engine at tdc #1 cylinder, make sure the metal tip on the rotor is facing the bottom right (#1 cylinder). if it is pointing to any other cylinders direction, you have found your timing problem if it isnt mismatched plugs. you have just successfully completely retimed the engine cam and ignition wise, save for future reference if your engine was turned over after parts were removed as reference marks dont mean crap anymore.

 

[bozo4ford]

Hiya –
Sunday 2- 14-2010

The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
towers is what I have now.

TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
This truck has two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
Compartment. I’ll see if I can check the engine compartments fuel filter if I can get to it.

1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
EFI GAS
4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
Mileage – 151,4672


Let's say I replace the In-Line Fuel Filter along the rail. According the Chilton Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1988 Repair manual Pg.248, under "2.3L Engine frame -Mounted inline Fuel Filter", it has another paragraph under this "Purging Air and priming Fuel Filter" Do I have to do this, or just the replacement of the filter? Are there any other precautions I should be aware of?

 

[rurouni20xx]

i change my filter all the time and water in the filter will do that. basically let the truck sit overnight (let the pressure in the line bleed down) and pull the two clips. install the new one with the arrow pointing to the engine and put the clips back in. yours probably is still on the screw type hose clamp attached to the bracket with two bolts on it (i chunked my bracket just have zipties holding it in place). as far as prefilling it/priming it its easy just turn the key on, listen for the pump priming, (humming noise) then turn it off and let it prime up again, do it about 4 times then start the engine. it will sound like crap and maybe die, just crank it again and maybe add some throttle it will clear up. your plugs are fine and your order is correct. i just gave you the instructions to retime the engine just to double check everything-and i mean everything so youll kno its right the first time. the more i read your post the more it sounds like my truck when i pumped a tank of water from a no name gas station. no power unless the truck had the throttle applied and slugging with the throttle applied. ended up changing fuel filter and pumped the tank. either that or your iacv went out and your not idling but will run with your foot on the pedal, done that one too.

 

[bozo4ford]

Thanks rurouni20xx,

Greetings to LA. from CA!

So your 4x4 /3.0/ V6/ 1993 has the same EFI config. as my 1986 2.3L Gas Ranger? I don't think I ever heard the pump prime before, or any humming. Sounds basic enough, I think all I did last time in replacing my in-line filter was to disconnect the GRND on battery, and release the pressure from my gas tank cap, replace the filer and put it back together...I don;t recall doing any of this "Purging" stuff or loosening any air vent plug on the conditioner housing until fuel flows out from the air vent w/o bubbles.
BTW...what is the IACV you mentioned? Ignition something control valve?

You may not believe that the gas was Chevron I used the last time.

I just need this to self idle for the smog test to fail, so I can get an extension, which by the way, good ol' California is now charging a fee of $50.00 for a two month extension...unbelievable! Don't think it will pass the way it's running now.

Thanks for your input!

As far as buying Motorcraft electronics from FORD is usually a good idea, should that also apply to the Fuel Filter? Pep Boys has one for $25.00, I'm afraid to ask what ford charges.

 

[rurouni20xx]

i currently drive a 92 2.3 2wd ranger. b4 i had this one i drove a 93 3.0 4wd ranger that i got passed on from my dad at 100k. i drove her til the gage said no oil pressure, the throttle would stick wide open and used a qt of oil every 1000 miles at 280k. the way you do your fuel filter is fine, and every gas station has an off day, or you pumped when the tank was low or just filled and stirred up the trash in the tank possibly. done that b4, if there is an 18 wheeler outside filling the station wait about 5 hrs b4 pumping to let the crap settle. the iacv = idle air control valve, its on the intake manifold right after the throttlebody and controls the amount of air that bypasses the throttle blade to let the truck idle. has two 8mm bolts holding it on and has a 2 pin connector on the outside, looks like this (picture from my 3.0 but it looks the same its on throttlebody on my 2.3 on the side of the firewall, hae to remove the throttlebody and egr to remove it on the 2.3)

sorry not used to putting on pictures from internet explorer its acting up, you can look at my truck on my myspace under the my project pictures tab, its the last picture with the red square around a sensor on the throttlebody. the address is www.myspace.com/rurouni20xx

something to ponder if the fuel filter doesnt clear u up, and im glad im not in an emissions state myself as i have no catalytic converter (previous owner removed when i redo the engine im going back with one she uses coolant and a lil oil) and no inspections to pass. yall have all sorts of extra bs on the trucks too that eat some power. i prefer my truck to breathe clean air from the filter. i also have my charcoal canister bypassed and looking into bypassing my egr. also looking into putting an open filter on my crankcase breather and plugging that spout of the throttlebody as well. i can do that in my state.

 

[bozo4ford]

Idle Air control Valve-
More and more peeps are leading me to this conclusion on my rough idling.
1986 Ranger 2.3L EFI 4 Cylinder 5-speedOD

Since it runs for about a less than a minute then stalls out, at first I'm thinking fuel filter, then fuel relay, but while steam cleaning the engine, before replacing plugs, rotor, cap, distributor cable, Air filter and gas cap, I may have disconnected, or the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE decided to suddenly go bad.

Although I haven't checked the idle Air control valve (IACV) I called a Gold Shield Auto repair shop and the guy told me to check the idle Air control valve, Air mass, Map Sensor. He also told me that the fuel filter should not be suspect, and to check other areas first, like the IACV.

In order for me to get the “Smog Test Only” done, Calif. Emissions is to have a constant idling engine speed, and since it runs for about 35-45 seconds, then stalls out, I should increase the idle speed. ... BUT, in looking at the Chilton Repair book (Pg. 74) it states that my "engine has a Idle speed controlled by the TFI-IV/EEC-IV and no adjustment is possible." That said, can I still manually raise the idle speed enough to drive to get the smog done?

Even with this Chilton book, I can’t seem to locate the Map Sensor, or even the IACV, located somewhere near the intake manifold or what it even looks like, but i will try to follow your myspace link. is this something i could do myself without any special tools, or is this a mechanic thang? Thanks again!!!!!

What appears to be the IACV near Air Filter...I could be wrong.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=205&pictureid=998

What appears to be two relays on passenger fender wall side. Should be Fuel pump relay and another relay of sorts.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=205&pictureid=1000

Are these the vacuum tree in the rear of throttle body?
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=205&pictureid=1001