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86 b2 no power


xracer18

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
16
Transmission
Automatic
alright guys, I have question to see what your thoughts are about my B2.
Its and 86 v6 2.9. recently i have done both fuel pumps, fuel, and air filter, complete tune-up along with new distributor, cap and rotor, I also have a new O2 sensor in it as well. Along with lots of seafoam. It still feels sluggish. I never really cared much until i drove my friends 89 (all stock) b2 v6 2.9. it had so much more power than mine. i just am confused one what to do next to get some more power out of it. Im probably going to cut my cat converter out and see if that helps. (i dont have emissions where im from). has anyone seen and or felt power difference by clearing the cats out of them. Another thought i had was to replace the map sensor and any other intake sensor it has, but im not sure if that would do any good. any other thoughts on what direction i could do next?
 
Working Cat converters or working EGR system can't hurt performance, a myth

Low power comes from Low Vacuum which means low air flow

All engines are air pumps, self powered air pumps, but still just air pumps
The more air you can pump the more power the engine has

Bigger engines have more power because...................................they can pump more air

Turbo or super charged engines have more power because................wait for it...........they can pump more air

So pretty simple stuff when you get right down to it, more air = more power, less air = less power, rocket science it ain't :)

Now a clogged exhaust would mean you can't pump as much air, so less power
Low compression would mean you can't pump as much air so lower power
Throttle plate not opening all the way would mean you can't pump as much air so less power
Air filter or inlet clogged would mean you can't pump as much air so less power

Check that when gas pedal is down to the floor, the throttle plate is open all the way
Google: Ranger throttle cable mod
Very common issue with Rangers/BII, stretched throttle cable

A Vacuum gauge runs about $20, best tool since the invention of gasoline engines
Doesn't matter what "do-dads" they add to the outside of an engine, it always was and always will be just an air pump

And you test an air pump with a pressure gauge, jeeze who would have figured that out, lol, yes pretty much every one

Good read here on some tests and what they mean: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

very easy to do these

Check the "clogged exhaust test" at the bottom to see if Cat or muffler is clogged


Compression test can take the compression issue off the table, or tell you not to waste money on non-fixes
Compression can't come and go like spark or fuel issues, you either got it or you don't
All spark plugs removed <<< a must
Test one cylinder at a time and WRITE DOWN results

I would expect 2.9l to be at least 150psi in each
 
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Thanks. I'll look into that. I actually first got it going and it could barely get going out of its own way. I found out the timing was way off. So I fixed that and it helped a ton but still feeling slow. I'll look into that stuff.
 
1986 BII used TFI spark system with an assist from the fuel injection computer

TFI module sets base spark timing on its own, computer "suggests" spark advance/retard info based on driver input, i.e. throttle position

There is a SPOUT(spark out) jumper that you needed to remove to set base spark timing, 10-12deg BTDC, and then put SPOUT jumper back in place so computer could assist TFI again.
SPOUT is the wire that has the computers "suggestions" so power would be low without SPOUT connected
 
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Depends on the year but most 2.9l had the SPOUT jumper near distributor passenger side between valve cover and fuel rail, but it can be on drivers side as well.
Picture here: http://s527.photobucket.com/user/gertsdsbs/media/spout002.jpg.html
And here: http://s25.photobucket.com/user/CRaSAfe/media/moto_0033.jpg.html

You pull out the plastic "jumper", then start engine, set base spark timing, some like 10deg BTDC, other like 12deg BTDC, Ford spec'ed 12deg

After timing is set turn engine off and reinstall SPOUT jumper
 
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Depends on the year but most 2.9l had the SPOUT jumper near distributor passenger side between valve cover and fuel rail, but it can be on drivers side as well.
Picture here: http://s527.photobucket.com/user/gertsdsbs/media/spout002.jpg.html
And here: http://s25.photobucket.com/user/CRaSAfe/media/moto_0033.jpg.html

You pull out the plastic "jumper", then start engine, set base spark timing, some like 10deg BTDC, other like 12deg BTDC, Ford spec'ed 12deg

After timing is set turn engine off and reinstall SPOUT jumper

It worked! Much more power now. Thank you so much
 

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