86-87 Ranger SuperCab 4x4 Rear Driveshafts - Auto vs Manual?

[ZeroHour]

I'm currently in a pinch and hoping someone knows offhand; is there infact a size difference between the rear shafts in this year range from auto to manual? I've found in alot of instances I can't rely on parts info from stores or rockauto for clutches (rockauto sent me some odd clutch kit that matched in the pic but different in the box) (most also list a brake caliper line as the clutch hydraulic line).

Basically, I haven't found any good-needs-work donor truck to swipe one from while I take my shaft into the shop to get it corrected and balanced, and this truck is my only means of transportation at the moment, but I have a spare shaft or two on the other side of the river. I just have a feeling there's going to be a variation even though it's in the rear after the carrier bearing?

 

[4x4junkie]

1986, 1987 4x4 trucks would have the Mitsubishi FM145 if it's a stickshift. The automatic trans for these years would be the A4LD. There is a two-inch difference in length between them, so yes, the driveshaft lengths will also be different (the FM145 being shorter, so it will require a longer rear driveshaft).

Beginning 1988, all transmissions were made the same length (matching that of the A4LD), so on these you would be able to swap the driveshafts between stick & auto trucks (4x4 only).

 

[adsm08]

Junkie is correct. The A4LD was about 2 inches longer than the FM145.

FM146, M5OD and A4LD are all close enough in length to use the same drive shaft.

 

[kunar]

Supercabs had the 2 piece rear shaft with a carrier bearing. If i remember right, it was the front piece that was different, the rear piece would have been the same. Not sure what your problem/situation is but if you need the back half of the rear shaft, auto vs manual shouldnt matter. Its been a long time since ive had a ranger with a 2 piece rear shaft, but i think thats right...

 

[adsm08]

Supercabs had the 2 piece rear shaft with a carrier bearing. If i remember right, it was the front piece that was different, the rear piece would have been the same. Not sure what your problem/situation is but if you need the back half of the rear shaft, auto vs manual shouldnt matter. Its been a long time since ive had a ranger with a 2 piece rear shaft, but i think thats right...

You should be correct. The little bracket for the carrier bearing was in the same spot either way, so the length of the rear portion shouldn't change at all.

You do need to have them balanced as an assembly though, just going all mix and match is likely to end with a driveshaft vibration.

 

[ZeroHour]

Hmmm... Well i've got vibration right now that's increased over time. Replaced the ujoint and didn't improve really. Each time I've taken it apart and reassembled in an effort to improve things, it seems to just get worse. I think anything may help right now though.

 

[shock1a2000]

I have a 1988 2.9 Extenced cab 5 speed with a 7.5 rear and a Dana 28 front. I did the single piece driveshaft wasp after fighting with the old 1210 u-joints and the carrier bearing. Went to the JY and got a 1998 steel drive shaft. Install new u-joints, blah blah blah blah, and the vibration was lessened, but not gone. Took it to a balance shop and they were so bad it was worse AFTER the rebalance. OK then. Hunted down an aluminum shaft. Worked great. Had to install a hybrid u-joint as the aluminum shafts have 1310's and the steel had 1330's. About a month later it slung a weight and no local shop will rebalance an aluminum shaft. Something about heat treatment and welding weights on to it. All right then. I went and bought ANOTHER steel shaft. Better looking that the first, verified almost no runout with a dial indicator. All new 1330 spicers, everything cleaned and lubed along with installing a press on seal (instead of the boot) to allow lubing of the splines while assembled. Vibration was very minimal, but began to grow. Crawled under with a bright light and WOW!! With the driveshaft installed I could see the blue glidecote on the splines of the spicer stub stick out of the press on seal about 3/8 of an inch????? Pulled the shaft, measured between the companion flanges on the x-fer case and 7.5 rear and got 62.5 - 62.625 face to face. Put the shaft on the bench, tapped until measurements matched and DAMN! With the seal off the splines WERE protruding out the back of the slip yoke!!! Verified this with the OLD steel shaft I had used the first time. If you are using the original with the boot you will never SEE THIS WHEN YOU INSTALL IT. I believe that even though the 88's had a slightly shorter wheelbase, the difference is from the 7.5 having a shorter pinion than the 8.8. I had to by a new spline and slip and take it to another driveshaft shop. If yo're doing the swap, you might pull the boot off of the yoke to double check the amount of spline engagement you have.

Hmmm... Well i've got vibration right now that's increased over time. Replaced the ujoint and didn't improve really. Each time I've taken it apart and reassembled in an effort to improve things, it seems to just get worse. I think anything may help right now though.