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'85 Ranger Restomod


Have spare console after I finish mine.

My Benz efans are probably coming out because intercooler and big mechanical fan with pusher if there's room.

Lmk which you're after 👍🏿
 
Have spare console after I finish mine.

My Benz efans are probably coming out because intercooler and big mechanical fan with pusher if there's room.

Lmk which you're after 👍🏿

The beast needs a clock. I vote clock. :icon_thumby:
 
@bobbywalter, IT WORKS!! :yahoo:


The dimmer function is kind of bright or dim, not really variable. I have a first gen, I don't dim the lights because they are dim to start with... so not a big deal.

I need to run keyed power to it (used a jumper wire tonight) figure out where I need to drill three holes in my ceiling and then drop the trim and run the wiring up to it, hopefully tomorrow.
 
i have one of those.....its filthy though....
 
Melamine foam erasers on Amazon. 100 for like 30 bucks on prime vs $6 for two in walfart.
 
The dimmer function is kind of bright or dim, not really variable. I have a first gen, I don't dim the lights because they are dim to start with... so not a big deal.

I need to run keyed power to it (used a jumper wire tonight) figure out where I need to drill three holes in my ceiling and then drop the trim and run the wiring up to it, hopefully tomorrow.

One thing I've found that works in the past is to take a piece of window tint and stick it over the display if it ends up being too bright. You may have to play with the tint level to find what you prefer.
 
One thing I've found that works in the past is to take a piece of window tint and stick it over the display if it ends up being too bright. You may have to play with the tint level to find what you prefer.

It doesn't seem bad at all. I was just saying its rather clunky dimmer function isn't a big deal because a first gen's cluster lights are not really bright enough in the first place to dim anyway.
 
@PetroleumJunkie412

Actually the dimmer thing is counter to the dash lights. When the dash lights are over halfway bright (roughly) the clock display dims. My auto dimming mirror does the same thing on its own, they don't need to be as bright when it is daytime.

Anyway, covered a lot of ground today. Started off with this:



The three wires are connected (and one spliced) so I had to run the harness:



I based the front hole off of the center windshield trim screw.

Then I set the bracket in the main part of the bezel minus the part for the maplight and used that to guide where the front screw hole for that went. I center punched/drilled that out, attached the bracket and did the same for the second hole:



I used the two tabs that clip onto the bracket to set the location for the second hole. It worked so good I kinda impressed myself:





DONE!



With the lights on as it got dark:





And I also did the Covid scoop the loop thing for my hometown, it was kind of fun. I was late getting there and the radio station took this week off. It seems the go every other week and it is HUGE when they get involved.

 
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very nice.


it is very difficult to keep that thing looking oem.... i really appreciate the work.
 
Chrysler minivan next to the 1984 it was pulled from had paint stick rulers in it.

Thanks, Dodge!


DSC_0288.JPG
 
very nice.


it is very difficult to keep that thing looking oem.... i really appreciate the work.

Thanks!

I was kinda worried it would have the typical 80's red or green LED display. By some stupid stroke of luck it is the same color and brightness as my 1997 Tahoe mirror.

I could just see it being red, clashing with the mirror display and driving me nuts...

Chrysler minivan next to the 1984 it was pulled from had paint stick rulers in it.

Thanks, Dodge!


View attachment 41340

I was wondering if you just packed them around in your toolbox to measure with or where the heck you dug up old paint stir stick rulers...
 
I have been chasing a vibration on hard accel ever since the trans swap. Check fuel filters, plugs etc, no dice. When I did the swap the angles matched between the trans and diff perfectly. With the funky springs I was wondering if it was spring wrap so I did the deal with deleting the blocks and using stiffer springs. Actually made it it a little better but now I have a light vibe at cruising speed... no blocks so less wrap but belltecks tipped the pinion up making the angle worse... is my current theory.

So I got my analog angle finder (I used the one on my phone the first time) and the trans is 5 degrees off from the diff. I check into shimming the axle but with the bigger Ruffstuff perches that is not really feasible. Perches are 8" long, most shims are 5" long. Well the "correct" fix IMO would be lowering the trans anyway so how do I do that? I was browsing around here and notice a second gen crossmember has the trans mounting pad sitting much lower but with a much taller trans mount. So I go dig my dogbone crossmember from my ‘86 parts truck out of my dad's shed and stick it in my old truck frame (pickup box trailer I need to finish)



Trans mount will sit about an inch and a half above the bottom of the frame rails.



About an inch lower than where my stock '85 trans crossmember puts the trans:



And somewhere around the second gen they came out with a new style yet, only roughly 3/4" lower than what I have but much easier to fit than the dog bone style.



I like how it mounts better than the one from my parts truck (brackets that are riveted on the frame on mine are same as shot as are the rubber bushings)... so I snagged a second gen/Explorer one from the yard today. I also snagged a damper to experiment with for the rear axle.

 
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The front of your truck is missing. That might be why you are having a vibration issue...
 
The front of your truck is missing. That might be why you are having a vibration issue...

The seat sucks but the view is AMAZING!
 

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