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'85 Ranger Restomod


Your truck looks incredible! Always thought the first generation Rangers had the cleanest lines. It's a great look with the slight lift and rollbar/brush guard combo. I love the color especially - don't see too many in that shade of green. Is that the factory color?

Thanks for the compliments :icon_thumby:

According to the build sheet it originally shipped black with a red interior. I don't think it is a factory color but there was a factory color that was really close to it.

I am going to use the darker "Oliver Green" (tractor color) when I repaint it. It is really close to what it is now for color. No flake and readily available in a spray can if I need to match something to it down the road.

Unlike the last guy I am going to use hardener and clear though. :icon_thumby:
 
After 13 years of smelling oil cooking off on the exhaust I hope to funally cure my truck of this nasty habit.

The 2.8 wasn't happy unless it was leaking something somewhere. Shortly after I got the valve covers finally beat straight and sealed it started blowing the dipstick out and hosing down the exhaust manifold with oil. So I swap in a 302 with these swanky $20 Craigslist special Edebrock "Signature Series" chrome valve covers. The PS has made a mess ever since, the thing was tweaked enough that the regular 1/2 valve cover bolts wouldn't even start. From day one it required 5/8" long bolts which are kinda hard to sneak up on, and even then my normal tightening wasn't enough to get it to make any kind of a mark on a cork vc gasket at the back of the PS which is where the leak is. I just figured thats the way it is with the 1/2 vs 5/8 bolts. I tried two sets of fancy gaskets and after hearing cork can swell up and help seal trouble valve covers I tried them and it couldn't get it done.

So I settle on getting a nice set of aluminum valve covers. They are either straight or broke, pass/fail. I like.

But wait, the saga doesn't end there.

I find a set of retro class "Cal-Custom" valve covers on Summit for only 70 bucks. I order them and then go back to oodle over them and notice they are not baffled.

I get them in and get to looking them over:

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They have these neat fancy grommets for a baffle type thing. I think it would make adding oil painfully slow.

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And then I see this, well how is that going to work? Both covers are like this.

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So I go over to my living room display 289 to test fit, with a normal hex bolt they drug hard on the side of the dimples. An ARP boltface is about the same as the hex head but has a smaller hex so a socket would have still worked... if the bolt would even start. The pattern was right, all the holes lined up just the whole thing was cast wrong. I could have ground the dimples hoping I had enough meat to play with... combined with the unbaffled design I decided I wanted out.

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I found a set on ebay that look identical but are baffled, the pics have the holes in the same location.

So I return them with a note about the screwed up holes. I later read on my receipt I was supposed to call in about warrenty returns. Summit was gracious enough to give me full credit without dinging me for return freight.

After a bunch of hemming and hawing I decide on a different set.

I love the clean almost regal look of Ford Racing's packaging. So simple but somehow really classy.

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Made in USA to boot. :yahoo:

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The sides have a nice mirror polish.

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They actually got the dimples to line up with the holes, even with room for a bolt head. :shok:

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The fins are rather roughly machined, where they machined around the lettering isn't really really pretty with a few extra burrs but nothing really glaringly bad.

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The included oil cap has the Ford Racing logo printed on it, I wish it was rotated 90* so it would be level with the world installed. I hope that the nipple is the same size as my Edebrock nipple too.

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Nice big baffle, kinda roughly cast on the inside but nobody will see it anyway. Kind of odd they have a second boss for a PCV/oil fill hole on the other end of the valve cover.

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I see a "Made in C" cast into the upper side, I get a flashlight and it is "Made in CA USA". Them dirty rascals. :D

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Also got longer bolts to go with them.

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Ohhh those are nice. Wish my powered by ford ones that look like those weren't broken :(

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Ohhh those are nice. Wish my powered by ford ones that look like those weren't broken :(

I wish somebody would reproduce those, mine priced towards the bottom of the price range of the intact used "Powered by Ford" cast aluminum ones on Ebay.

They were all usually groady nasty too. :annoyed:

I searched and searched and could never turn up a new set of those. Scott Drake had something similar but had "302" above the "Powered by Ford" They were another $50-70 more and used a totally different oil cap that wasn't included.
 
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I had found a set online that said powered by Ford but I had to use Google image to do it.

I will get a set but that will be my next engine which I'm thinking just keep it simple and get an explorer engine and convert it to carb. Better heads, I think forged pistons too, and over all better power.

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I am kinda stuck between rebuilding another 302 (Explorers are getting age on them by now and are usually neglected) or just going all out and getting a 351W.

I think/hope my current engine will last a good long time though.
 
351w are in the same boat as an explorer 302.

I would go through an explorer 302, get a fresh crank, etc...

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351w are in the same boat as an explorer 302.

I would go through an explorer 302, get a fresh crank, etc...

Yeah but it doesn't cost any more to rebuild a 351W than a 302.

Same size holes to bore out, same size journels to turn, mostly the same gaskets.

Only out an intake and probably headers.

And I know of a really late model roller that still has the factory crosshatch that the guy got for free out of a wreck and hasn't used in 3 years. Really tempting to make an offer...
 
Yeah but it doesn't cost any more to rebuild a 351W than a 302.

Same size holes to bore out, same size journels to turn, mostly the same gaskets.

Only out an intake and probably headers.

And I know of a really late model roller that still has the factory crosshatch that the guy got for free out of a wreck and hasn't used in 3 years. Really tempting to make an offer...

You'll have to get your harmonic balancer rebalanced. I've been thinking about what I'll eventually replace the kind of old engine I have now with. A 351w has been a thought of mine.

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If I had the money, summit would have had a call.

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You'll have to get your harmonic balancer rebalanced. I've been thinking about what I'll eventually replace the kind of old engine I have now with. A 351w has been a thought of mine.

An adaptor pulley that bolts on the 28oz balancer is about $75.
 
I have a 1st Gen Ranger myself, and I absolutely love what you've done with the interior. As far as the seats and center console from the 93 Explorers, are they easy to install? I know I'll probably have to drill some bolt holes in the floorboard, but overall do the seats sit level without any spacers? Is the center console difficult to install, and must it be modified in any way?
 
The seats bolt in like the are supposed to with tracks from a bucket seat 60/40 bench seat truck. You have to drill holes for the inside mounts but the floor was dimpled where they needed to be. There are two different kinds of floor pans, make sure you watch that when you go shopping for tracks. There is a heatshield on the bottom of the cab that makes it a PITA to put nuts on the PS track mount bolts, I could get my arm crammed between the floor and shield and used electrical tape to hold the nut in a box end wrench.

My only gripe is you lose legroom with buckets. I have only tried Explorer highbacks and EB BII seats though, I have never found a set of remotly decent factory buckets out of a std cab Ranger. The back on the Explorer was pretty tall and hit the rear window pretty hard, the EB seats are better but the back is thick at the top and still hits the window.

The center console required a spacer (about 1" IIRC) at the front because of the different floor profiles between a std cab Ranger and an Explorer. It also sits higher and farther ahead relative to the seats vs an Explorer too.

That darn rear cab wall just gets in the way every time you turn around. :annoyed:

To be honest I will probably go back to a bench this summer, it was a lot easier to get into and more comfortable to drive. And I don't think the console will work with a 5spd. :sad:
 
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