85 ranger rear end swap

[DandysRanger]

Hey Gang, we upgraded the old stock 14" wheels to 15" with 30" tires. We like the look and the ride much better but we lost some acceleration and made 5th gear just about unusable. It has the stock 3.45 gears and I would like to swap the rearend out for a 4.10. I researched this in the tech section and know to look for a code 87 axle. However, it is my understanding the 1st gen rearends are two inches narrower than the 93 and up. Is that the only difference? Can I bolt-in a 93 and up rearend or is there more to it?

 

[Captain Ledd]

If they're from a Ranger, they'll swap.

I doubt you'll notice the difference in width. Well, you will since you'd be used to looking at the truck with the skinnier rear axle, but it won't look weird afterwards. The Explorer axle in my truck is about 3" wider overall (1.5" on either side) than the 93+, it looked really strange at first, but now it's normal, and no one notices the difference.

Congrats on the choice to go deep. I'm running 4.56 on 29" tires, and love it!

 

[Surrey]

If you are going to get a junkyard axle or something, might as well get a 8.8 from a 4.0l ranger - its a direct bolt in but much stronger.

You can find everything you need to know about axle identification in the Tech Library, found at the top of the page, under Info - Technical.

 

[DandysRanger]

OK so a 93 up is a direct bolt-in swap? The extra inch won't make any difference? It seems like the tire is pretty close to the fender as it is


Surrey there is no reason to go with the 8.8. This is just a DD and occasional farm truck/parts chaser. My main objectives are cost, reliability and fuel economy.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Well, if your concerned get a 92 and older 8.8.

I never notice the extra 1.5" on my '97 anymore.

 

[Surrey]

Surrey there is no reason to go with the 8.8. This is just a DD and occasional farm truck/parts chaser. My main objectives are cost, reliability and fuel economy.

The 8.8 will cost the exact same as a new 7.5 from most JY, is a direct bolt in replacement, and is stronger. If anything, there is no reason NOT to.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What motor are you running the 2.8 would probably be a good match with with the 4.10 but if your running the 4 cyl yea you probably want to go deeper. I`m running the 215 75R 15s and swapped in a 3.73 LS carrier and get good acceleration with the 2.8 just whatever you decide you will need to change the speedo gear for jonny law.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

code 87 is a 7.5 4.10 open
code 97 is a 8.8 4.10 open
code F7 is a 7.5 4.10 LS
code R7 is a 8.8 4.10 LS
I believe all four are plug and play

 

[DandysRanger]

The 8.8 will cost the exact same as a new 7.5 from most JY, is a direct bolt in replacement, and is stronger. If anything, there is no reason NOT to.

I am somewhat familiar with a the 8.8 as I was shopping for one for my 65 mustang. Are the Ranger 8.8s different than the explorer 8.8s?

I found a 7.5 with 4.10s for $150. Decent price?

 

[Surrey]

I am somewhat familiar with a the 8.8 as I was shopping for one for my 65 mustang. Are the Ranger 8.8s different than the explorer 8.8s?

I found a 7.5 with 4.10s for $150. Decent price?

Ranger 8.8 has spring perches ontop of the axle, Explorers are under the axle. (so people typically put new mounts on top to use under a Ranger) Explorer axles are also stronger, but as stated involve at least some modification. If you get an axle out of a 1990 or 1991 4.0l Ranger, there is no welding or cutting or anything.

I wouldn't pay $150 for a 7.5...

edit - thats not to say its not worth that, I really dont know their value... I think any money into a 7.5 is wasted more or less.

as for gears, I used to run 31x10.50r15s on a Bronco 2, with 2.9l engine, and 3.45 gears. Never bothered me any, she did highway speeds without issue, and kept speed up hills without struggle.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The explorer axles are 31 spline 8.8, the ranger 8.8 has the same axles as the 7.5 just the carrier bearings and gears are beefier on the 8,8. With the bigger tires you probably want the 8.8 carrier for the added stress on the ring and pinion but for normal use the 7.5s have been running for years. You didn`t say what engine you have?

 

[DandysRanger]

You didn`t say what engine you have?

The 2.3 FI. It is OK but it lost a lot of oomph with the larger tires and 5th is just about unusable.

I don't know if $150 is a good price or not for a 7.5 with 4.10 gears. I just know I can be done with it for $150. I am not that worried about strength. It is my daughter's daily driver and my occasional parts chaser.

 

[Surrey]

The 2.3 FI. It is OK but it lost a lot of oomph with the larger tires and 5th is just about unusable.

I don't know if $150 is a good price or not for a 7.5 with 4.10 gears. I just know I can be done with it for $150. I am not that worried about strength. It is my daughter's daily driver and my occasional parts chaser.

Call a local junk yard or two, ask what they charge for one.

 

[DandysRanger]

I think I might have found a 4.09 ratio rear end for my Ranger. How do I check it out of the vehicle if there is no axle tag? can I just turn the pinion and count the wheel rotations? Is it that simple?
TIA,
Jim

 

[4x4junkie]

4.09 was never used in Ford axles that I know of, it should be 4.10:1.

Yes, you can rotate the assembly by hand to find the gear ratio.

if it's an open differential, best way is to fix one side so that it cannot turn, then rotate the other side TWO complete rotations while counting how may turns the pinion moves.

4.1 turns = 4.10, 3¾ turns = 3.73, etc.

The above method works the same on a factory L/S diff also, though it may be harder to turn it by hand.