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85 Ranger 2.0 is running REALLY rough....


jjwlff

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
11
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
Just replaced the starter solenoid and now it seems to be running rougher. Im sure its not cuz the installation. I put it on my last thread that my ol truck is running pretty rough. Makes a bad 'CLANK" sometimes when I try to start it. Scares the sheet outta me. I keep thinking a rod is gonna go thru the engine. Guess I need someone to crank it while I try to see what is making that sound.

The clutch is slipping. Could that have something to do with it?

Oh, and when it does start, it starts to die out on me when I dont keep on the pedal. So basicly, theres no idleing.

Me and my buddy, who died a few months ago (RIP Dylan Andrews) used to work on this old truck all the time. He would always say that I need to replace that dam carb w/ an Edelbrock. I always let him 'rebuild it' though. I think that carb is on it's last leg. Anyone think its a good idea to put an Edelbrock carb on it. At least for him.

I want to keep this ol truck running
 
I replied to your other post in my thread. If it's running rough and knocking it could be a timing issue. I think you need to start with that. I haven't seen your other pictures yet, but can you take a pic of your engine bay? Do you have any emissions equipment on there like an air pump? A lot of times those peices/hoses (if originals from 85) can become gunked up and suffocate the engine. I thought the emissions equipment started in 86, but I could be wrong.
 
Maybe timing??? Lets try this. Here is the engin
fordengine11.jpg


fordengine10.jpg
 
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Set timing. Timing should be perfect now. It still sounds pretty rough. Not sure what I could do. I keep wanting to buy a carb and install it. I feel like I am itching to do it but my neighbor (a frickin lube tech) said it wasnt necessary/ Distributor is set right.
I have new distributor cap, rotor button, spark plugs, wires, starter solenoid, alternator, belts, oil, and cleaned the engine a lil.

I dunno what else I could do to make it run better and not eat so much gas. I tried adjusting the carb. When its lean, it runs pretty rough, and when I make it run with more gas, it sounds better, but still rough. Engine shakes pretty hard. No knocking though????

Any suggestions
 
From the one pic i can see cut lines going into the carb. Plug them up and see what that does, as vacuume leaks can cause an engine to run rough. If that doesn't work, buy a spray can of starter fluid, start the engine and try spraying that around the carb gasket. if the engine responds (you should also see bubbling around the areas you sprayed) then replace those gaskets/hoses. Hope that helps
 
I don't know if this would help, but check the timing of the cam with the crank, it might have jumped one tooth...

Robert
 
No emissions gear I see.

Check for vacuum leaks around the base of the carb. I never had success with spraying any kind of fluid around the engine bay to check for leaks.. just went ahead and replaced the gaskets. Checking for a vacuum leak might be your next bet.

Also, no telling how long it's been run without a filter on top of the carb. It may be in need of a good seafoam treatment (or a couple).

If the filter was off and the truck was run for a long time.. I could see dirt getting into the carb and causing parts to stick. A remanufactured carb may be in line next, but let's see what others have to say first.
 
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have you tried snugging the carb down I would clean the cobwebs out along with the vegetation and take a long vacuum hose around while it is running put one end up to your ear check around all manifold connections and listen for hissing is that the pcv or egr hose plugged up. If you have been running without a air cleaner it could be rings too check the compression. if you cup your hand over the carb and it revs up more than likely a vacuum leak somewhere. when ur listening for leaks stay clear of moving objects. unless the throttle shaft is worn bad the carb can be rebuilt if it even needs it GL
 
Ok. Cleaned up the bay pretty good and bought a manual to help connect air lines. Still running rough. I tried a few of your suggestions with no prevail. The compression is ok. I am not sure about what you mean when you say check the cam with the crank?????
I will try a new gasket on the carb but I would like to replace the carb altogether with a nicer one. A NEW one. Like I asked before, who is against me installing a Holly or Edelbrock on this 2l engine? You know. If I am going to take the carb off anyways
 
I say try it,if you can afford it, go for it, and what I meant my checking the crank and cam timing, to make shure it hadn't jump one tooth on the belt.
 
Two things I noticed...the pump on the left side is either an A/C compressor (about 50 lbs of dead weight unless it works properly) or the air pump (a mere 20 lbs of dead weight that can be removed unless specified by your State) for emissions: and the EGR vac line is off...that line may be plugged at the other end, but make sure there are no open vac lines...

As for the loud 'clank'...it could be caused by whatever it is on the left side of the engine...take the belt off from that pulley and while you're there inspect the bracket to see if it's broken...

Mine had snapped and the air pump was flopping around like a fish out of water causing all kinds of scary fish flopping noises...metal fish flopping...
 

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