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85 ford ranger silinoid problems?? wont start


Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
6
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
I have a 85 for ranger has been running fine for the past 6 months untill my alternator bolt fell out two weeks ago ended up putting a brand new alternator and battery worked fine for another week then 5 days ago I went to start and would not start the positive going to the silinoid was coroded ended up changing the starter and that 1 foot positive and it fired right up today I went to go start it and nothing ...thought maybe it had a bad ground or silinoid so I changed both of those still didnt help the silinoid smokes and ground wire to the battery moves up and down when you try and start it ..the ground wire from block to battery , the one foot positive cable to the silinoid and the silinoid were all hot to the touch ..help! Befor the changes and after the silinoid clicks one time with the ignition even got a second silinoid nothing changed or helped the wire from silinoid to the starter was cold the whole time ...dont know alot with these trucks any help would greatlly be appriciated
 
When you try to start it dose it turn over or just click

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It just clicks at the silinoid does not try to turn over if I bypass the silinoid with a wire it will start right up just fine with the key turned to on
 
Do you have a manual or automatic

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Are we talking the solenoid on the starter

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Its the starter silinoid relay like 1 foot from the battary right next to all the vac lines
 
I'd start by Turing the key to the on position and check the volts around the battery and around that solenoid see where its at. If that checks out do the same when someone is trying to start it. I has to be some type of electrical issue

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The wires getting hot indicates a bad connection or corroded wires. Check the connections. If you can jump the solenoid to start the motor, check the bat+ wire to the solenoid and the small wire going to the solenoid as well. Use a test light on the small wire when it's disconnected and there should be power [light comes on] when the key is in the start position. If not, trace the wire back to the key and find whats wrong.
Good luck,

Richard
 
If the solenoid clicks it is either bad contacts in the solenoid or a bad connector/wire. This time of year if you see alot of real cold conditions upgrading to larger cables and put a new solenoid in at the same time is never a bad idea. Also clean all the grounds in the system and possibly add a ground wire from the alternator body to battery neg helps the charge in extreme conditions. But it sounds like the solenoid to me. A cheap part to eliminate a variable.
 
thought maybe it had a bad ground or silinoid so I changed both of those still didnt help

Befor the changes and after the silinoid clicks one time with the ignition even got a second silinoid
@ kim; It sounds like he already replaced the solenoid.

Perhaps you have the solenoid wired wrong. battery positive and all other positive wires except starter to one big terminal, starter to other big terminal, and small wire to the small terminal. I think if you have the two small terminals it doesn't matter which one but I'm not sure.
 
Sounds like a dead short. I'm going with what Alwaysfloored said.
A friend comes to mind. He is "Electrically Challenged" and thinks EVERYTHING should have a + and a - attached to it. He wired up an aftermarket A/C system to his StreetRod,and connected the + wire from his A/C control AND a - wire from a ground, TO HIS REFRIGERANT LINE PRESSURE SWITCH!!!! Filled the system w/R134,turned it on and promptly smoked his wiring. Then he called me. LOL
 
Going to wrench some more thank you for the feedback im going to double check and make sure the ground is solid and clean to the block n check the volts at the silinoid with key on and see what I cant find will keep you guys updated thank you again
 
Update .... well I got it fixed what the problem was was the positive wire going down to the starter over time the wire rubbing agents the oil pan had taken all the rubber off and ground the paint down on the oil pan bare metal to bare metal put a few layers of electrical tape on it and moved it away from the pan and it started right up now I can make it to the parts store to replace that positive I appriciate all the input will definatlly be back to the ranger station for any more troubleshooting thanks again guys
 

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