85 B2 w/ A4LD trans

[cckc135r]

I've got in my opinion i really nice 85 B2 that runs pretty good and seems to have a good solid A4LD trans in it. Problem is that while going down the road it goes in and out of OD and the MPG's are POOP. I can't seem to locate the issue. I've also acquired the parts to do a the Dura-spark conversion.....however, I have read on the tech page that this can't be done on an auto trans B2 and have the 3-4 shift work correctly. Is there anyway around this?

I'm pretty sure I read that the 3-4 shift is computer controlled, if so then could someone put a/an switch in to control the shift point of the 3-4 shift without hurting the trans?

Thanks in advance for help

 

[Caliray]

Not sure on the shifting switch

I'm not sure on the shifting switch but I have an 85 ranger with a 2.8v6 and I seem to be having the same problem with the overdrive in and out of gear. My passing gear is not hooked up though. I also get crappy mileage even with this carburator I got rebuilt about a year ago. Sorry I couldn't help much but I'm on the same boat that u are. Good luck on the tranny issue man. I already went through one of them and I'm on my second. Let's see how long it lasts with this junkyard trans now. The beach is fun but it can cost.

 

[cckc135r]

I think I have found part of my issues. It's running very rich and is down on power even though the 2.8 is not a power house to start with. Can't wait to get the rest of my dura spark bits (lacking carb) and get it installed. I also have found out that the 3-4 shift on this trans is hydraulically controlled so the in and out is the lock up converter which has now been fixed with switch mounted on the dash. It helped some but the MPG's still suffer due to the feedback carb

 

[kimcrwbr1]

in the tech library in the duraspark conversion section tells you how to address this issue you have several options the dash switch sounds the easiest

 

[cckc135r]

Yes, the switch mounted in the dash was very easy to do and I now have the lock up function of the torque converter. I think the carb could also use a good cleaning and carb kit. It just seems that the truck has something pushing against it and holding it back. Just doesn't feel right. I've checked to see if the brakes are hanging up and they are not. I'll be checking timing very soon too. I'd do a 4.0 swap but I really just want to be rid of all the electronics mess with it....no FI, no computer controlled trans, no electric fuel pumps....Just Dura Spark.

I also want to put a 5spd in it but can't seem to find a donor with a FM145/146. Don't really know too much about the M5OD's and our parts yards around here don't have any B2's on their yards and very few first gen Rangers.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I did the duraspark and put a blocking plate on the carb where the feedback solenoid is and it worked pretty good you just need to run the distributor on manifold vacuum its a feedback metering block but I just left the screws all the way in until I got a non feedback carb. still trying to dial the new carb in but still can lite up both tires. I`m having issues with idle and the high speed power gonna try and ream the ports a little with a welding file set for the power valve enrichment ports a little at a time when I rebuilt the carb I dont think I soaked it long enough for one and hoping a welding tip file set will do the trick for reaming the holes a little I runs fine. also I have read from a guy that he still uses his feedback carb with the block and it performs just fine I guess if you machine one out of aluminum it would be more permanent I just want to pull a pass at 65+ dont know if it possible but gotta try.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=981&highlight=martin's+metering+block
here is the link

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/3
oops try this one

 

[cckc135r]

Thanks for the tip and the link. I'm going to be rebuilding the carb soon so it would be a good time to do the metering block as well. I'll keep you all posted of the progress.

 

[cckc135r]

Kim,

Am I missing something? I started making the metering block today because a got some phenolic material that should work out fine. Anyway, after getting a small piece cut out I then went to look at the size of the mixture control valve...the one that has a vacuum line to it. It looks really small. I will try and post a picture of it but it looks really small adn the pictures on the link that you posted seem bigger than what I have. I'll look again but I'm confuzzled. How did the metering block bit work out for you? Does it affect timing at all? Can it still be done without the dura spark conversion? I have most of the parts to do it but not all yet. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the valve that is on the front of the carb next to the fuel pump actually shuts the fuel pump off when vacuum is applied. The metering solenoid on the back of the carb where the wire plugs in is where you put the block. I used the gasket to cut it to size and drill the holes. What it does is meter the air bleed going to the venturi cluster. The more air the leaner the mix I put mine on before I had all the duraspark parts together and just left the solenoid plugged in so the computer did not go wacky. well I was able to adjust the idle air with the two needles on the bottom front of the carb but the computer would not hold the idle so I used a idle screw to hold the butterfly at idle rpm. Mine ran best if I just turned the metering screws on the block all the way closed but you may need to add air on the high side the big hole not sure on the drill sizes but after you drill the holes for mounting Use a big drill to hog out the area thats not round and center the two smaller of the holes but dont drill all the way thru. Then for the larger of the holes i fugured out my bits byfirst drill the port between the big hole and the larger of the two on the valve side one for the inside of the 1/4-20 thread tap and another smaller than that for the port hole. drill the smaller hole thru to air supply and the tap bit just into the first hole then tapped it and took the 1/4-20 screw and ground it to a semi point like a idle air adjust screw. then mount it on the back of the carb I took the block and a screw to the hardware store to get the length and thread size to mount it. If you look at the metering solenoid close you should be able to see how it works In your case start out with the bleed open about two turns on the high side and closed on the low side if you ported it also. get it to idle good or max vacuum at idle then test drive at high speed and slowly turn it in for max power remember out lean closed rich also a new gasket on the block would ba a good idea either make one or get one from parts store i didn`t wanna wait at the part store so made one GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

what i meant was the valve that has the vaccum pointing up is for the accelerator pump has a gasket that is wye shaped is that the one ur thinking of. Did you rebuild the carb yet. I am still having vacuum issues so waiting for the gaskets for the intake manifold I think the wingnut that put the engine together (me) when he changed it did not torqe it down properly when I checked a couple of the bolts I got almost a full turn to snug it down so I am gonna regasket it and see what that does. I can`t remember doing it so I`m thinking being in a hurry and drunk are not good things when putting a engine together.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The enrichment valve is on the bottom with 4 screws u need to put the new enrichment valve in and that vacuum plugs into the manifold just below it when mounted

 

[cckc135r]

Have not rebuilt the carb yet but did have my signals crossed. Just looking at the wrong piece but now I'm straight. I hope to finish up the metering block mock up so that I can take it in to have one machined out of t-6 aluminum. When done I'll rebuild the carb and put it all on together. Thanks for the help.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you have one machined maybe there is a market for them. I`m guessing the cost of ten of them would not be much more especially after the initial program and any tweaks that are necessary. My brother is a machinist but I was the the machine when I made mine I didn`t want to get him involved and spend too much time at it.