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84 TurboCoupe engine


Nelso90

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Messages
15
City
Burnsville, MN
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
Hi, relatively new to the forums here, but I've owned my Ranger for a long time. That's why I'm in the forced induction forum!:icon_twisted:
I need MORE POWER! Not anything crazy, just maybe 200 or so, just a bit of a boost. Going from my VFR back to this truck makes it seem kinda doggy! I want to swap a complete turbo motor for durability reasons, and I found an 84 TurboCoupe motor complete with wiring harness, turbo and all, with 85K on it. The man I'm going to see tomorrow says it has a blown head gasket, but the deck and head are still straight, he had them checked. I did do some looking on the motor swap page, and saw a couple of niggles about the 84 motor, namely exhaust seat cracking. I also saw where it isn't compatible with the higher flow later intakes and such, and it has the E-3 manifold on it. The guy wants 450 for it, but when I do look at it, if this is a good option, what am I looking for as far as defects go? I also have a 2.5 in my Ranger now, so if there are any swappable parts between the two that'll make the turbo motor run better, I'd like to know.
Thanks!
Mike Nelson
 
Yes they do, but do some searching and you'll find it.

The exhaust seats crack on ALL 2.3 turbos. If it's not cracked or can be machined out, hardened inserts should be installed.

Just buy an e6 manifold from ebay or classifieds on a 2.3 turbo site, that solves your e3 problems.

You can install a later intake, up to 88. After that, the intakes are not compatible because the head is totally different, it's dual plug. And the later intakes do not necessarily flow better as stock.

If the head is off, run your fingernail up and down the bore. If your nail catches on a ledge at the top, that means there is significant bore taper, and may need a rebuild.
 
Okay, I was assuming it was the head itself that cracked, not the insert. Hardened inserts shouldn't be hard to come by. I'll go have a look at it and let you guys know what I find, if there is anything out of the ordinary!
 
The head itself is probably cracked. Stock, they come with induction hardened seats, which means that the cast iron is hardened by a heating process.

If the cracks are small enough, you can fix the problem by machining out the stock seat area and installing a hardened seat.
 
Since you already have the 2.5 (stroked) motor, it might prove less of a hassle to just strengthen your motor for turbo duty. A set of Forged turbo pistons for the 2.5 would run about $429 a set. This would eliminate you having to "replace" your wiring harness, etc.
 
The powdered metal rods in the 2.5 are not suitable for high power applications.
 
Actually, I picked up the motor with all the parts! 4 rubbermaid totes full! And I talked the guy down to 375! The engine is rough cosmetically, it has been sitting in a trailer for a while, but the bores are fine and there is almost no ridge. It actually has the e6 log on it, and the inline style intake, which, judging by the longer runners, should be better for lower end torque. Figure after I get it all squared away, I can sell my 2.5. Now here's a question for you guys. Is there a bypass valve for the turbo on this engine? I thought here had to be one! But I cannot find it anywhere.
 
No, no bypass valve in the stock application.
 
Wow! I would figure, given my limited knowledge of stock turbo engines, that that would damage the impeller assembly. Well, if I'm shooting for 210 to the wheels with this engine, I am going to want a bypass valve, right? I am definitely going to need an intercooler, that's certain! Speaking of the intake, is the stock VAM good for my application, or will I need a larger one, or even a MAF based system? Probably getting ahead of myself, but for future reference, I want to get thinking about this stuff.
 
what ecu are you planning to use?
 
I was planning on using the EEC-IV that came with the engine. It came with that, the VAM, the harness for it, and all the sensors I need. I figure it's my best option simplicity wise.
 
Yes, that is going to be your simplest option. However if you want 210 hp, get the la2, lb2, la3, lb3 or 8ua and associated large VAM. There is no need for MAF at that hp level.
 
Interesting they used the VAM on their turbo cars, but a MAF setup on the 2.5 in my ranger now. The VAM seems a lot more restrictive. Just skimming through the tech section here is a help, but the specifics are kinda foggy, considering how long I've been working on this (bout a week!). This is more of a summer project, but it REALLY helps to know this stuff early! It said the P series computers respond well, so that's a thought, but I'm going to take a look at my EEC. Considering this engine came with the E6 manifold, I might find a surprise!
Davis:
I gather from what you said the large VAM won't work with the P series computers? And if I am going to intercool this, am I right in going to the L series because of the IAT sensor?
 
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