84 key solenoid issues

[MadMax_636]

So, ive been having an issue with my key solenoid where it run and start work but acc doesn't and when it does. its flaky and will go on and off. I narrowed it down to the key solenoid because I can fiddle with the key and itll work but while driving or even sitting and the bumps in the road, bumps from idle, or me hitting the steering column will either kill it or restart (knock it off and back on)

Has anyone else had this issue and or know of a fix? Ive got a replacement but I wanna know what else could be the issue.

 

[bobbywalter]

Likely...Ignition switch is falling apart...

Zip tie can get ya by.....pretty cheap

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^^

When the ignition key is on the steering column there is no wiring for the ignition in the steering column

When you turn the key it slides a ROD inside the steering column, and that rod slides the ignition switch UNDER the steering column(above brake pedal) into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

Diagram here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/attachments/body/73589d1086958664-how-does-ignition-actuator-q58.gif
Shows the steering wheel lock mechanism as well

No solenoids involved, all mechanical, gears, rods, levers and posts

Ignition switch, not yours, looks like this: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/d3....jpeg?odnHeight=612&odnWidth=612&odnBg=FFFFFF

Has a metal post on it that's attached to the ROD, that's what slides to the 4 positions

Unplug the connector and take out the 2 bolts
You can plug the connector back in and move the metal post manually to see if ignition switch is the issue
It is possible for the gear on the back of the key slot, or the "actuator ROD" to fail

When you watch TV shows or Movies and the actor reaches UNDER the dash and grabs a handful of wires, and pulls them out, then touches a few together to start the engine, those are the ignition switch wires they are grabbing
And you could do that, but hard to figure out whats what, lol
And of course steering wheel is magically unlocked

No, better to pop out the key cylinder and use a screwdriver, to unlock steering wheel AND start engine
But still wouldn't work if vehicle had anti-theft like Ford PATS

 

[bobbywalter]

+1 ^^^^

When the ignition key is on the steering column there is no wiring for the ignition in the steering column

When you turn the key it slides a ROD inside the steering column, and that rod slides the ignition switch UNDER the steering column(above brake pedal) into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

Diagram here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/attachments/body/73589d1086958664-how-does-ignition-actuator-q58.gif
Shows the steering wheel lock mechanism as well

No solenoids involved, all mechanical, gears, rods, levers and posts

Ignition switch, not yours, looks like this: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/d3....jpeg?odnHeight=612&odnWidth=612&odnBg=FFFFFF

Has a metal post on it that's attached to the ROD, that's what slides to the 4 positions

Unplug the connector and take out the 2 bolts
You can plug the connector back in and move the metal post manually to see if ignition switch is the issue
It is possible for the gear on the back of the key slot, or the "actuator ROD" to fail

When you watch TV shows or Movies and the actor reaches UNDER the dash and grabs a handful of wires, and pulls them out, then touches a few together to start the engine, those are the ignition switch wires they are grabbing
And you could do that, but hard to figure out whats what, lol
And of course steering wheel is magically unlocked

No, better to pop out the key cylinder and use a screwdriver, to unlock steering wheel AND start engine
But still wouldn't work if vehicle had anti-theft like Ford PATS

Unless it's a gen 1

 

[RobbieD]

Common problem with the first gens. This is a normal ignition switch:

And this is how the ignition switch looked when it was coming apart on my '84:

That gap between the gray plastic and the pot-metal switch housing should not be there. The plastic-based switch guts are crimped into the metal housing, and the crimp tabs wear out, making the switch guts loose and causing problems with the contacts making correctly.

Like Bobby said, running a tie wrap around it and cinching it back together can fix it. Second pic you can see where I put the tie wrap. Mine's working fine like this for years now. I'm not thrifty; I'm just a cheapskate

 

[Jazzer]

I was averaging six starts per switch in my “87 until I figured all brands were doing that. I ran fiber mesh along the gap and epoxied it, so far so good four years.

-Jazzer