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84 BII gutless?


poorboy_616

New Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Messages
4
City
Ocean Park, WA
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
Odball issues.....

Looking for second opinions here....

I currently am driving an '84 BII, brand new Crate 2.8L with Reman carb, all of about 5000 miles on both...

Here is the issue:

1) Idle at times is Super low (around 400RPM or less) and rough

2) When the idle sits that low, it also is gutless, all the way thru the power band, in fact, just barely hit 45MPH, foot to the floor.

3) When it is running well at idle, when floored, it's gutless. It should have some get up and go..... Not floored, runs just fine. No issues, smooth as glass, has some power as long as it;s not floored.....

Now, that being said, here is what I have gone thru on it:
Full Ignition system inspection, including timing check (spot on). Everything is all new as well. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, O2s.

Carb cleaning (reman carb, went in the same time the engine went in), though it really didn't need it. Changed the fuel filter (twice) to verify it's cleanliness. Also fuel pump output check. It fills a quart jar in no time flat. Pump is new, so that rules that out.

The Cat has been gutted, but not by me....

PLENTY of compression, brand new engine, so that shouldn't be an issue....

It sounds to me, like I have fuel issues, as in running lean. If I close the choke plate by hand with it running at normal op temp, it runs FAR better. This supports my lean fuel theory.

I have taken my propane torch out and run raw propane around the bases gaskets, spacer and all the hoses, no change in idle....

The Evaporative emission controls got eliminated when the engine got put in. Meaning, the carbon canister isn't used anymore..... I do have one open port, next to the accelerator pump. I can't seem to get a vacuum reading off of it.....

Now, that being said, what the heck am I missing!!!:annoyed:

Can I adjust the mixture screws to eliminate the issue? I know the two on the carb are for Idle, but would changing the jets help? If I'm gonna go that far, i'll just get the duraspark system of a mustang 2 and call it good....
 
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I would start with looking everywhere for any vacuum leaks, the mixture screws, move 'em about a half turn at a time, adjust idle as needed, & take it down the road to see if it helps. When the engine is warm, the idle should be around 750 - 800 rpm. I assume you are still running the feedback carb. & computer, they seem to always cause problems.

The front mixture screws are for the air & fuel, the idle screw will be on the back of the carb on the driver side, it probably looks like a small bolt sticking out but it has a slot on the top for a flat head screwdriver. You probably already knew all of that but it was just fresh on my mind...:icon_twisted:

I changed my '84 over to the D/spark several years ago & used a non feedback 2150 from a '68 full size Ford V8, the carb was just rebuilt last week & I was still having the EXACT same problem you are having, we took it back apart & replaced the jets with the ones from the stock feedback carb. It did help some but I just can't seem to find the right settings, I'm not even sure if I am turning the adjustment screws the correct way or not, I will eventually get it..........:headbang:

:icon_cheers:
B2
 
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You start with the idle screws 2 turns out from being seated. Start the engine and turn one out until the idle quits going up and starts to go back down, turn them back for highest RPM. Repeat for the other screw. Adjust idle to spec with the screw on the throttle linkage.

All they do is control the idle, if you want to change anything more than that you are going to have to play with the jets.
 
You start with the idle screws 2 turns out from being seated. Start the engine and turn one out until the idle quits going up and starts to go back down, turn them back for highest RPM. Repeat for the other screw. Adjust idle to spec with the screw on the throttle linkage.

All they do is control the idle, if you want to change anything more than that you are going to have to play with the jets.

Hey man, I appreciate that! :icon_thumby: I'm still learnin' this carb stuff, I get confused easily.....:dntknw:

Guess I will try that, hopefully that will at least help my issue.

:icon_cheers:
B2
 
try replacing the fuel pump they are pretty cheap. or take your old one off and make a block off plate(dont forget to remove the push rod) and run an electric pump. advance has universal electric pumps for around 30 bux. even if it doesnt fix your problem its still a nice upgrade. my 85 had the same problems and i d-sparked it with a holley 350 and it fixed it
 
You say you have an open port. If it's near the base of the carb at the front it's for the power valve and needs vacuum applying to it.
 
If your talking the port next to the drivers idle air needle it is not used. Do you have all the sensors plugged in including the one in the air filter housing. Disconnect the battery for half an hour and turn your idle air screws out 3 turns. Make sure all the sensors are plugged in connect the batt and start it up. you can take the air cleaner off and set it to the side but leave the IAT plugged in or the computer will say FO. warm it up to operating temp first then unplug the idle motor and adjust the idle air screws for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure then plug the idle motor back in. it should take over the idle. Be sure and back off of the antidiesel screw to where it is barely not touching the throttle lever let the idle motor control the idle. Turn the engine off and the idle motor plunger should fully extend. That is the curb idle unplug the idle motor and then start it up and set it about 1100 rpm by adjusting the position of the motor and lock it down. Plug the motor back in and it should idle right down to around 700 rpm and idle smooth. For upper end power you need to have the knock sensor working to retard the timing under a load but I found running the idle air screws rich supplements the high speed jets but put the timing light on it and have someone tap on the block next to the knock sensor while your watching the timing the timing should retard with the tapping just dont tap on the sensor they are brittle.
 
sounds to me like the choke isn't operating properly, or you have a vacuum leak... or the carb is out of adjustment, i'm thinking to rich... lean motors tend to run well, but very hot
 
The 2.8 is a funny animal and have allways had to set my idle air screws at least 3 1/2 turns out just make suer there is no more than 1/2 a turn between the two cout the turs in then back out. You actually get more power and better mileage.
 
You might check the PCV valve too, mine ran all sorts of goofy when it fell apart (which is a drastic failure of one, they don't usually do that) If it is sticking sometimes it might be goofing with you too.
 
that's a good call... pcv valves cause a vacuum leak that you can't detect with propane, because it pulls the air completely from the crank case
 
that's a good call... pcv valves cause a vacuum leak that you can't detect with propane, because it pulls the air completely from the crank case

The EGR can also be problematic for the same reason a vacuum guage is a good tool to determine if it is a vac leak or something mechanical.
 

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